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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Aug 13 2008, 08:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Really? I didn't do that at all. :icon_lol: How come though? I don't see anything about that in the BGB either.[/b]
Are you serious. Please tell me you are not serious.

I was just saying that because you said that the pedal went to the floor when you tried to back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhyT @ Aug 13 2008, 09:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Aug 13 2008, 08:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Really? I didn't do that at all. :icon_lol: How come though? I don't see anything about that in the BGB either.[/b]
Are you serious. Please tell me you are not serious.

I was just saying that because you said that the pedal went to the floor when you tried to back up.
[/b][/quote]
I am not serious. :eusa_shifty:
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Aug 13 2008, 10:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Don't think so. Didn't feel like it when I opened the valves today. If you read about a white MR2 spyder crashing in a firey ball of death tomorrow well... You know why. Spydercam I am leaving you my... Whatever it is I have left after the car. :)[/b]
YES! I get all of that... :icon_confused: ...Nevermind! Just get your car fixed. :icon_lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #25
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhyT @ Aug 13 2008, 09:08 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
DD, you are probably the only one to make a "How To:" post and turn it into a "How do I fix this?" post. :icon_razz:[/b]
:rofl: I was thinking the same thing. I wonder what people who are reading this are thinking "uhh... Best not follow this guys advice... He can't even do it himself."

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (spydercam @ Aug 13 2008, 09:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Aug 13 2008, 10:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Don't think so. Didn't feel like it when I opened the valves today. If you read about a white MR2 spyder crashing in a firey ball of death tomorrow well... You know why. Spydercam I am leaving you my... Whatever it is I have left after the car. :)[/b]
YES! I get all of that... :icon_confused: ...Nevermind! Just get your car fixed. :icon_lol:
[/b][/quote]
:icon_lol:
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
SE, the bleeder he is using is the same thing that the dealer ship has.[/b]
Of course. And with the car now 2 years out of production, I really appreciate posts like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (southerneditor @ Aug 13 2008, 09:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE
SE, the bleeder he is using is the same thing that the dealer ship has.[/b]
Of course. And with the car now 2 years out of production, I really appreciate posts like this.
[/b][/quote]
At least you have a good dealership to go to. :p

Oh well the place I'm going to tomorrow is finicky but they haven't screwed up the last couple of time I've been there. Of course I don't give them much chance either.

At least now I am armed with knowledge about alignments and this car in general.

Dmanit I am drifting my own threads now...
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (southerneditor @ Aug 13 2008, 09:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE
SE, the bleeder he is using is the same thing that the dealer ship has.[/b]
Of course. And with the car now 2 years out of production, I really appreciate posts like this.
[/b][/quote]
I don't understand what you are saying here.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
At least you have a good dealership to go to.[/b]
No. I did, a few years back. Now I'm in a wasteland of criminals. They have already proven themselves incapable of not doing harm. Take the car to these bozos, you will incur some kind of damage.

Maybe I should just retract everything I said. As I go along, I really prefer doing it all myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (southerneditor @ Aug 13 2008, 09:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE
At least you have a good dealership to go to.[/b]
No. I did, a few years back. Now I'm in a wasteland of criminals. They have already proven themselves incapable of not doing harm. Take the car to these bozos, you will incur some kind of damage.

Maybe I should just retract everything I said. As I go along, I really prefer doing it all myself.
[/b][/quote]
I do too. I don't trust even the best dealerships. Everyone makes mistake but I would rather be able to only blame myself for rushing the some monkey who I pay a fortune for. Plus I would at least know what is wrong if such a thing ocurred. If I had originally gone to the dealer for bleeding and this happened where would I start? Besides it's cheaper. :)

There are two things I canot figure out for the life of me though. They are soldering and getting out a snapped off bolt. I just can't seem to do it right ever and hate it. I'll admit lazyness on the alignment deal.
 

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Soldering is easy, its all in the prep work, like many other things in life. Take a copper pipe and a fitting. Clean the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Using a flux (or acid) brush apply flux to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Push the two together.

Roll out about 6 inches of solder, the stuff sold at the home stores about 1/8 inch in diameter. Fire up a propane, acetylene of MAPP gas torch (I prefer the MAPP gas though I have used the others) and heat the fitting close to the pipe. NOTE: DO NOT try to solder on a cement floor. There is enough moisture in the floor that the cement/concrete/mortar will pop and hit you in the eye. Now that you are heating the fitting hold the end of the solder to the side opposite the flame at the rim of the fitting. The solder will start to melt and get drawn into the joint. Remove the heat, don't add too much solder, don't touch the pipe - its hot, don't disturb the joint until it cools. That's it!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AgSpyder @ Aug 14 2008, 01:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Soldering is easy, its all in the prep work, like many other things in life. Take a copper pipe and a fitting. Clean the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Using a flux (or acid) brush apply flux to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Push the two together.

Roll out about 6 inches of solder, the stuff sold at the home stores about 1/8 inch in diameter. Fire up a propane, acetylene of MAPP gas torch (I prefer the MAPP gas though I have used the others) and heat the fitting close to the pipe. NOTE: DO NOT try to solder on a cement floor. There is enough moisture in the floor that the cement/concrete/mortar will pop and hit you in the eye. Now that you are heating the fitting hold the end of the solder to the side opposite the flame at the rim of the fitting. The solder will start to melt and get drawn into the joint. Remove the heat, don't add too much solder, don't touch the pipe - its hot, don't disturb the joint until it cools. That's it![/b]
You forgot the Wonder Bread.


This thread is why I prefer the pressure bleeder (instead of a vacuum bleeder). No chance of air getting introduced into the system. Although, I really do miss the ab workout I would get from bleeding a clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AgSpyder @ Aug 14 2008, 12:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Soldering is easy, its all in the prep work, like many other things in life. Take a copper pipe and a fitting. Clean the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Using a flux (or acid) brush apply flux to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Push the two together.

Roll out about 6 inches of solder, the stuff sold at the home stores about 1/8 inch in diameter. Fire up a propane, acetylene of MAPP gas torch (I prefer the MAPP gas though I have used the others) and heat the fitting close to the pipe. NOTE: DO NOT try to solder on a cement floor. There is enough moisture in the floor that the cement/concrete/mortar will pop and hit you in the eye. Now that you are heating the fitting hold the end of the solder to the side opposite the flame at the rim of the fitting. The solder will start to melt and get drawn into the joint. Remove the heat, don't add too much solder, don't touch the pipe - its hot, don't disturb the joint until it cools. That's it![/b]
Wires Ag, wires. :p But I *know* how I just can't seem to get things to work out. I guess I'm too impatient. You got to take your soldering iron heat up the wires then touch your 60/40 tin/lead solder with rosin core to the wires and hope that it melts. Then you can't move the wires at all until it dries or you're left with a cold solder and it's useless. Blah!!! I'm going to try my hand at it today sometime I think though when I try to hardwire a button for my garage door opener.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MikeV @ Aug 14 2008, 08:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AgSpyder @ Aug 14 2008, 01:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Soldering is easy, its all in the prep work, like many other things in life. Take a copper pipe and a fitting. Clean the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Using a flux (or acid) brush apply flux to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Push the two together.

Roll out about 6 inches of solder, the stuff sold at the home stores about 1/8 inch in diameter. Fire up a propane, acetylene of MAPP gas torch (I prefer the MAPP gas though I have used the others) and heat the fitting close to the pipe. NOTE: DO NOT try to solder on a cement floor. There is enough moisture in the floor that the cement/concrete/mortar will pop and hit you in the eye. Now that you are heating the fitting hold the end of the solder to the side opposite the flame at the rim of the fitting. The solder will start to melt and get drawn into the joint. Remove the heat, don't add too much solder, don't touch the pipe - its hot, don't disturb the joint until it cools. That's it![/b]
You forgot the Wonder Bread.


This thread is why I prefer the pressure bleeder (instead of a vacuum bleeder). No chance of air getting introduced into the system. Although, I really do miss the ab workout I would get from bleeding a clutch.
[/b][/quote]
Don't blame the tools blame yourself. :p But really if I have air in the line or somewhere it's because I'm an idiot.

I don't know though I think maybe I don't after driving it in today. I'm still going to try and bleed the master cylinder when I get it back though if I can coax someone into sitting in the car and doing as I say.
 

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I have the cold heat soldering iron from the as seen on TV thing, except i bought mine at RS.

You should really try it. I'm ok at soldering, but I'm forever burning myself or other stuff with the tip.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mr2shopper @ Aug 14 2008, 10:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I have the cold heat soldering iron from the as seen on TV thing, except i bought mine at RS.

You should really try it. I'm ok at soldering, but I'm forever burning myself or other stuff with the tip.[/b]
I plain suck at soldering. I got a nice conventional soldering iron from weller but when I did it today the garage door kept going up and down without pushing the button... Could be the button is bad now but I think it was more to do with my soldering. I wonder if I could just take it somewhere to have soldered... It's only 4 little solders.

BTW as for my brakes I think it was in my head the other day. Today they feel fine.
 

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I would like to add my experiences w/ a few "similar kits" one of them being Poor quality. Nowhere near the quality of what was pictured at the begining of this thread. Aka: this kit here> is bad as* > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92924
MY version , i got at autozone, and I was not impressed. I tried "mytivac" from "Oem tools" at autozone..
I was dissapointed. When i opened the "sealed" box unit, 1. Instead of having the correct "three adapter sizes ". Instead, there were two of the 6mm size and missing the other two. When i tried the 6mm one, it fit but not "snug" and I had the impression i needed one size smaller to do my bleed corectly. So I used the cone shaped nips to insert into the bleeder valve.. and found that they are quick to flex and warp and are a pain in the ace IMHO. You have to hold them centered into the bleeder valve so they don't fall out of snug fit. I went threw four of them!!!

2nd of all, The pump doesnt sit up correctly on the ground. This version doesnt have the pump handle mounted to a coffee pot looking chamber. It attaches to a small hose which then attactes to a lid and plastic cup abou the size of a Piss test cup! and the assembly It falls over the place much like a 4 month old trying to run it's first marathon. Conclusion: sloppy.
3rd of all: This Kit at some points has VAGUE instructions. Limited pictures. Poor in explaining the details of excavating fluid. I thrive on Play by Plays. Maybe i just like people to thoroughly explain things w/ visual examples and I am a true visual learner. Yet to my credit, i Did an engine swap on a Honda civic w/ a shop manual. I gave their product a trip back to the autozone and fortuneatly the gave my money back.

Update: I tried another type of kit by OEM tools from autozone. It cost me 9 bucks, and worked pretty well!! It is a small bottle w/ a magnet and cone shaped adapters.
You will need Floorjack or scissor jack, at least one jackstand, lugwrench or 20mm deepwell, 8mm open/box ended wrench, shop rags, Latex gloves!!! or a bucket of warm soapy water, a place to wash your hands, Shop goggles. Brake cleaner, dot 3 or 4 fluid. Heavy duty or high temp prefered. I hear ford has good heavy duty fluid. Castrol , Valvoline, prestone synthetic have pretty good boiling points. If you don't want to spend 10-15 for a can of ATE superblue or expensive sh*t. And your particular vehcile needs are daily driver, occasional spirited driving, then, these fluids should do fine .
1.You remove your wheels, Make sure Master cylinder is full, and ** "SEALED" *** with the lid!
2.assemble the unit, twist and plug the cone into your bleeder, Apply a lil multipurpose auto grease around threads of bleeder valve, then after opening it almost 1 full turn, position the plastic bottle so that there isn't any twisting motion by the hose which could retighten the bleeder valve, attach the bottle to the strut higher than the caliper. May want to add a lil masking tape or electrical to hold it well.
3. pump your brakes 3-4 times, check for bubbles in the hose, repeat 3-4 pumps check for bubbles. If none, you can retighten and Seal the bleed screw while making sure the cone stays firmly inside the valve, (this is where taping the bottle to the strut helps!) Be carefull not to drip the fluid from the nipple or cone-hose onto your pads or rotors. Holding the bottle lower than the connector hose will help avoid drips.
Now, move to the next wheel. * unless you want to do a more thorough bleed? Scroll down to the bottom of this writup* Pass rear, Drivers rear, Pass front, drivers front.
Before doing a new repition or starting a new wheel, empty bleeder bottle and retighten bottle lid snug for a good vaccum seal. Refill master cylinder with fluid and Put M/C LID back on snugly.
Or if you are doing a more thorough one man flush, Spend more time and do more Repitions for each wheel. Like 5 Repitions of pumpings ( 3-4 times each) ***Will need a Huge bottle of brake fluid, or two smaller bottles. And it is Important that you KEEP your EYES on the bleeder bottle fluid level. Don't let it overflow! Usually 8 pumps of the peddal is the most you should do before closing your bleeder valve, Twisting the cone adapter out of the valve being carefull not to drip any flluid on your Rotors or pads. Now you can empty your bleed bottle into a can. Make sure M/C lid is sealed and full of fluid before going back to extra repitions and/or going to a new wheel.
 
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