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I have been running the PPE header, High flow cat and Carson Tuned muffler since the car was about new. I used the O2 wiring kit that came with the header which bypasses one of the upper 02 sensors. Things were fine for well over a year but then it started throwing a CEL (P0420). I did a few things but eventually came to the route of adding in an O2 Conditioner at Paul's (of PPE) suggestion. The reasoning is that the smaller high flow cat probably isn't as efficient as the big OEM cats so the conditioner adjusts the signal to within specs that the ecu is looking for.

Installing the conditioner is a very simple procedure (assuming you were able to install PPE harness yourself) but I thought I would post a guide anyhow since some people had their headers installed by a shop, or bought the car with them on there. I need to run the car a few times for some distance to be sure the problem is solved so I'll post up if the CEL comes back. After a warm up drive it stayed off but I have to run it for a few warm up cycles to be sure.


The important thing (this wasn't easy without Pauls instruction)
  • On the sensor you want to cut the blue and white wires about 3 inches from the connector. Do not cut the black wires on the sensor (they are for the heater circuit and do not need to be cut).
  • Connect the Blue wire on the Conditioner to the blue wire going to the connector.
  • Connect the Black wire on the Conditioner to the blue wire going to the sensor.
  • Connect the White wires on the conditioner to the white wires going to the connector and the sensor.
  • It is important to make sure the black wire on the conditioner is going towards the sensor.

The Conditioner (and kit bits)


To get to the sensor connector Pull the Driver's side brake light off via 2 10mm/Plus head screws:


Carefully pull the back of the light just up off of the threaded plastic tabs as shown. There is a plastic nipple that will snap off if you don't do this correctly.


Now pull the light gently and slowly straight towards the centerline of the car. This tab:


Goes in this slot so pulling straight rearward will snap it off. There should be enough length of wire to just lay the tailight off to the side without disconnecting anything.


The O2 Sensor connector is attached to a bracket on the coolant overflow tank


Disconnecting it will make it easier to work with. Push in the tab on the connector.


Slide the sleeve down to expose the 4 wires. Cut only the White and Blue wires. DO NOT CUT THE BLACK WIRES!


If you prefer you can cut the sleeve off for easier access. I chose to cut a small hole in the sleeve and pull the other end of the Blue and White wires through, leaving the sleeve to protect the Black wires.


I cut the conditioner wires down to length and stripped the ends of all wires.


Slide heat shrink tubing over the ends, twist the wires together matching Blue to Blue and White to White with the conditioner facing THE CONNECTOR END and solder them (I preferred solder vs. the crimp connectors that were included).



Slide a larger heat shrink tube over the conditioner (I used two, so I could adjust the length and cover everything) and smaller tubing for the individual wires.


This end of the conditioner has a Black wire and a White wire. The White wires go together and the Black wire connects to the Blue wire facing THE SENSOR END. Solder em up and heat shrink the tubing.


Slide the big tubing over the wires to protect them


I zip tied the conditioner wire to the brakelight wire. Ignore all the other wires in there, I have a trailer hitch connector wired in there too.



Plug the connector back in and reinstall the light. Mind the little tab that sticks out - slide that in first then down over the thread tabs where the screws go.

Tool List:
10mm wrench or screw driver
Scissors
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Solder/Gun or Crimper
Lighter
 

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I like to thank people for posting "how to" threads, because pictures help. But you know, I've looked at this several times and I don't understand it at all. What is an "O2 conditioner"? Are you just lengthening the wires?
 

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Would installing this fake out the heater thingy into thinking everything is OK with the O2 sensor? Reason I ask is I have the cross threaded problem. I could get the thing out but getting a new O2 in is not going to happen.
 

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THe ppe comes with the CEL fooler, as well as a 2-1 oxygen senser patch (do it yourself cutting and crimping and such)... well at least the no cat version.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (southerneditor @ Dec 12 2007, 07:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I like to thank people for posting "how to" threads, because pictures help. But you know, I've looked at this several times and I don't understand it at all. What is an "O2 conditioner"? Are you just lengthening the wires?[/b]
An O2 Conditioner fakes the car into thinking there is a CAT.
 

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Thanks guys I will pull the the wires back off later this week and I will post some pictures of the finished product. The way my friend did it was he looped the black wires from plug one to plug two. I knew when I saw it that it was not right" signal was never going to the 02" but I was not sure how to correct the problem either, especially where to put the resistor etc. As for the pictures posted those are great but I feel pretty good about the 02 after the cat, I have the conditioner hooked up and all seems to be done right. The nice part is even with the short the car still runs pretty damn well. The header package is very nice and I feel if I can get some good photos of it it will make this install a lot easier for everyone to go along with the great write that has a full walk trough.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (beastie @ Dec 12 2007, 08:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Would installing this fake out the heater thingy into thinking everything is OK with the O2 sensor? Reason I ask is I have the cross threaded problem. I could get the thing out but getting a new O2 in is not going to happen.[/b]

At an auto parts store you should be able to find an O2 sensor tap to chase the treads, be careful however, it may not work if the threads are too far gone, however if the threads are just a little buggered up this could clean them up.

Sometimes its better not to fix things if they are not broken.

Good luck.
 

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Where can you get the conditioner from?

Nice write-up, by the way.

Thanks.
 

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ppe sells if for $15 shipped. Its alot better then before, now you just cut the 2 wires and screw them in the clamp ppe sells.

btw shouldnt this be moved the the How TO section???
 

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we use anti-foulers all the time on cars, it seems to work on about 90% of the cars i have done it on and no wiring necessary, much easier in my opinion when you remove cats from a car.

 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dustylax @ Dec 10 2008, 07:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
we use anti-foulers all the time on cars, it seems to work on about 90% of the cars i have done it on and no wiring necessary, much easier in my opinion when you remove cats from a car.[/b]
yeah but it wont pass a visual inspection
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ksmT @ Dec 10 2008, 08:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dustylax @ Dec 10 2008, 07:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
we use anti-foulers all the time on cars, it seems to work on about 90% of the cars i have done it on and no wiring necessary, much easier in my opinion when you remove cats from a car.[/b]
yeah but it wont pass a visual inspection
[/b][/quote]

haha and having no cat will ?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dustylax @ Dec 10 2008, 09:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ksmT @ Dec 10 2008, 08:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dustylax @ Dec 10 2008, 07:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
we use anti-foulers all the time on cars, it seems to work on about 90% of the cars i have done it on and no wiring necessary, much easier in my opinion when you remove cats from a car.[/b]
yeah but it wont pass a visual inspection
[/b][/quote]

haha and having no cat will ?
[/b][/quote]

he never said he didn't have a cat
 

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well a header (with no cats), high flow cat and different exhaust would all fail any states visual inspection if they were being thurough, that's all im getting at, just trying to give another option that doesnt involve splicing wires for your o2 sensor which is also not legal and would not pass a visual inspection.


we have obd2 scan's no smog check or anything here for 96+, its not very common to even have someone check the engine bay for visual inspection unless they are trying to find problems to charge you to fix them, so all they would do is plug in and if there is no cell (which is why we use the anti-foulers) then you pass as long as the rest of the car looks good. They mostly look at things like tread on tires, brakes, other obvious things like lights, maybe the horn etc for the other part of the inspection, many shops wont look under the hood here unless you throw a code and they know there is a problem worth looking into.

just trying to give another option which i think is easier and cheaper :peace:
 

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My inspection is coming up.
Surprisingly, after about 1000 miles of driving with the 2zz swap, running the full ppe setup with test pipe, no 02 foulers or conditioners, I still have yet to throw a CEL for lack of a cat. I just need to find a place that will ignore that my car smells like gas when it's reved up, or actually get on the process of looking for a shop to weld an O2 bung onto my catted downpipe.
 
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