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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Firstly, it is easier to remove the rear bumper cover to access the Exhaust system, there is a very concise write up by Toojerry on this here:

http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30036&highlight=rear+bumper+removal


This should get you to this point:


Remove the 4X10mm nuts and bolts from these two bars, to access the heat shield behind:


Remove these two:


And these two:


And one more:


Now you should be here:



The next stage involves removing the two spring loaded bolts attaching the stock exhaust and the cat, use lots of easing spray on these - as you are opening the bolts remember to tighen and loosen the bolts a little as you go, this may prevent you sheering them and allow the oil to seep in. They will more than likely be quite rusted. It is advisable to place a jack under the cat before you remove the bolts:


There are Four rubber Mounts to be removed on the stock Exhaust and the cat. There are mounts on either side of the exhaust box behind the lights, accessing one of these involves removing the shielding behind the right side light fitting. There is one more down low on the left of the exhaust and one on the cat:

Removing two of these bolts allows access to the rubber mounting:

Removing the rubber mounts is easier if you use the afore mentioned easing oil, flathead screwdivers, some grunting and a little swearing.
It may be easier to leave the rubbers on the exhaust rather than on the car as you will need these again on the new exhaust. Don't be afraid to stretch them as you prise them off:

One:

Two:

Three:

Four:

Now you can wiggle the stock exhaust out through the gap thus:


And Breath:

Here is a picture of both Exhausts as a reference, the Lotus style is a lot smaller than the stock which should make it easier to fit:


Thats the easy part done!!
If you have a stock cat you will need to remove the heatshield from the midsection of the cat. By removing the banding on the cat it is possible to unbolt the shielding. The bolts on this section on mine were rusted so badly I had to use some....gentle...persuasion:mad:



Ray 1 - Heatshield 0:lol:

It is now easy to mount the rubbers you removed ealier on the new exhuast, the rubber under the cat is not used at this point. It is easy to fit the two top rubbers and use these to support the exhaust while fitting the new bolts on the cat:


As I didn't have install instructions here is where I had a number of issues. The new exhaust didn't come with fixing bolts to the existing cat. whereas the stock exhaust has fitted nuts on the flange, the new exhaust doesn't have these:

Anyone seeing where this is going?

The answer was to get longer stainless nuts and bolts (X2) and mount the new exhaust with the old springs Thus:


This is where it went a bit pear shaped, as I tightened the bolts the joints didn't line up and the tail piece of the new exhaust ended up flush with the stock cat (even with the heat shield taken off.
I managed to tighten the bolts up enough to seal the joint but it doesn't look great:


This in turn lead to the Tail piece being up against the cat - Maybe a non stock cat may solve the issue?


Once the new exhaust is tightened to the stock cat you can fit the rubber mount that came with the exhaust, this utilizes one of the bolt mounts for the heatshield removed at the beginning of the install:


I replaced the banding on the cat to prevent it from rattling, the lower rubber can then be fitted to the lower mounting on the new exhaust, again none of this looks pretty but can't be seen with the bumper on:huh:


I eventually placed the rubber on the new exhaust mounting and the static mounting on the bodywork.

now you can reinstall the heatshield and the strut bars to give you this:


Now re-fit the shielding behind the right light, then the rear bumper cover, then both lights and you have this:



It's not as loud as the Elise Sports exhaust and I wasn't happy with the fact that it doesn't line up very well with the flange on the cat, may be a design flaw, not sure :confused: Here's hoping the strain doesn't crack the exhaust or cat!!:eek:

Yet the sound is nice and bassy with a few light pops while throttling down.

If you are looking for loud I guess the TM is the way to go but the Lotus style exhaust is unusual looking on the Spyder

Hope this helps;)
 

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Excellent detail write up Raized :) There are couple info's I like to address to clear few issues for the installation. Its very tricky installation, or else the installation will not be perfect. Hope this does not offend you :cool: Thank you for taking time by posting this write up.

Regards,

Che


#1 Stock Catalytic Converter Section:

The Mounting Bracket and Heatshield must Removed during installation, this way you don't have issue with the New Exhaust touching against the Stock Catalytic Converter and Bracket pressed against the Exhaust tip section.




#2 Exhaust flange mounting:
Line up the 2 x bolts on the Exhaust flange, tighten the bolts start on Right side flange not all the way but at least to the point the right side flange are evenly -> than tighten the bolt on Left side -> Please Tighten the bolts little by little in rotation or else the flange will not meet up evenly. (At same time adjust the Upper 2 top mount hangers to allow the adjustment on exhaust flange) Once Exhaust flange are evenly sealed than tighten both bolts on flange.



#3 Stock Catalytic Converter touching Bottom section Exhaust due to the Stock Catalytic Converter Mounting bracket and Heatshield is not removed.

 

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Darn I could have used this yesterday by accident I made a small rip in my flexpipe into a big rip trying to get them to meet up and seal but I have a catless ppe downpipe on the way again awesome write-up thank you
 

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A bit of advice. the bumper mount with the rubber insert seems to Hinder necessary movement of the system when the engine torques! may want to use ONLY rubber hangers, to avoid damaging stuff.
one reason for my che header cracking , and mounts breaking may have been due to that one bummper mount. This was given to me by a Veteran owner of an exhaust shop that has been in business many years and is performance minded.
so i scrapped the mount when i was running this system!
 

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A bit of advice. the bumper mount with the rubber insert seems to Hinder necessary movement of the system when the engine torques! may want to use ONLY rubber hangers, to avoid damaging stuff.
one reason for my che header cracking , and mounts breaking may have been due to that one bummper mount. This was given to me by a Veteran owner of an exhaust shop that has been in business many years and is performance minded.
so i scrapped the mount when i was running this system!
+1 tolerances in play seem to be too tight on this.

used a exhaust hanger removal tool the other day for the first time, i'm in love. its soo much easier to get those hangers out of the rubber mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hi Guys, thanks for the input on the install, just on the point of removing the heat shield on the stock cat, I did remove the heatshield from the mounting bracket back up to the downpipe, I had only put the bracket on to mount the rubber on the bumper mount at the end of the install. The issue I had is that the tailpieces on the new exhaust are up against the actual cat without the heatshield in place, see pic:



Here is where the issue seems to be:



As you can see, the tailpiece is flush to the heatshieldless cat, so I then had to force the joint between the exhaust and the cat:



Will I run the risk of cracking my Che header, or the exhaust brackets, seeing as the springs are tightened up to the last here? what ye think?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A bit of advice. the bumper mount with the rubber insert seems to Hinder necessary movement of the system when the engine torques! may want to use ONLY rubber hangers, to avoid damaging stuff.
one reason for my che header cracking , and mounts breaking may have been due to that one bummper mount. This was given to me by a Veteran owner of an exhaust shop that has been in business many years and is performance minded.
so i scrapped the mount when i was running this system!

+1 I had considered this too when I was mounting, it's right in the middle of the tialpiece area, so had you the same system as me, with a Che header and this exhaust?as I posted already, I don't want to end up doing damage to the system, but the sound IS really nice, not too ricey and nice and deep.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Darn I could have used this yesterday by accident I made a small rip in my flexpipe into a big rip trying to get them to meet up and seal but I have a catless ppe downpipe on the way again awesome write-up thank you
Thanks Darkstreak, that's why I put it up, even though it's a little flawed due to the line up problem, but I if it helps someone along the way then it's worth the effort to take the shots and do install notes:)
 

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I just installed the dual canister one (used), and I thought I might add a few things.

I was able to put on the exhaust without removing the heatshield on the cat, but I did hammer the heatshield to get the extra clearance. I didn't get the old lower rubber mount so I wasn't able to use that. No rattles from here. I also ditched the springs because I couldn't get bolts long enough to allow me to actually get the nuts on with the springs, just had to kind of eyeball it and try to get the fitting at the correct angle.

HOWEVER, there is a very loud rattle coming from the place where the pipe exits the canister and makes a 180 degree turn, because the pipe is only 1mm from the frame and hits the frame when the engine shudders at low rpm for example when starting.

My solution was to stuff fiberglass mat insulation wads into the gaps and put some silicone to hold it there, we'll see if it holds up...
 

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I'm not going to try to bend the hangers, taking off the bumper is a ton of work and those hangers are pretty tough little bastards. I'm not sure it'd buy me enough clearance anyhow, because the hanger on the dual canister exhaust is kind of short. I tied the pipe to the frame with some 20 gauge galvanized steel wire, but that exchanged the pipe on frame loud rattle with pipe on wire less loud rattle. The exhaust melted through the fiberglass I was using, so I tried mineral wool instead but the mineral wool wouldn't stay put, so I bought some silicone ovenware off Ebay to cut up and stick in the gaps when they get here... I may try to put the steel wire through a rubber hanger instead of directly on the frame, that probably will quiet it down but it'll look pretty ugly.

Grrr. Why so little clearance.
 

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Update on this, I decided the rubber mounts were strong enough and I used a jack and metal tube to exert force on the exhaust while it was still in the car, and I thought it wasn't doing anything but I noticed the mounts bent slightly and now it doesn't rattle! :D But it's probably a good idea to try to do a little bending before putting it in.

Problem is now the exhaust isn't pressed as hard against the cat and since I didn't take off the heat shields there's a little bit of rattle there, mostly when it's cold. Also my fender liner seems to rattle a little more than it used to maybe because I was a little too rough with the bumper.
 

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I had all kinds of rattles from my heat shields.I ended up removing them all from the cat.There really not necessary and I think it looks better without them.
Check the condition of the small flex section on the cat.Mine were shot at 50,000 miles and jacking up the exhaust can put undue stress on the only flex point.
 

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I had all kinds of rattles from my heat shields.I ended up removing them all from the cat.There really not necessary and I think it looks better without them.
Turns out the rattles didn't come from my heat shield, it's coming from the bumper (I used a blow dryer to soften the bumper and then I jammed the other side in place, put all the screws on, and drove until it melted through) which vibrates with the exhaust when cold but once the exhaust heats up and melts the area of the bumper that used to be in contact the rattle goes away.
 
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