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978 Posts
It would depend on what type of RFID protocol the keys are using. If that's the case you could use those fobs that you get for accessing the gym and stuff cos its an RFID tag as well
How to program an extra ignition key (updated)
21 - 40 of 66 Posts
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105 Posts
Havent reprogrammed yet... but i did get the key cut, and tried turning my car on with my normal key on the key ring, and it wouldnt work unless i like pinched the 2 keys butt to butt it woudlnt work with it just on the same ring :/
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5,435 Posts
I tried something similar. I held the head of the chip key on the head of the plain key. The car started and ran. Interestingly it kept running when I moved the chip key away from the ignition.
I do have an extra Elantra key that I will try to program in tomorrow, just for kicks.
I also cut open the head of my broken ignition key, with an exacto knife, and I pulled out the chip (not an original idea - I saw someone else do it on youtube). I taped the chip to the outside of the steering column case. The car started with the plain key. Next, I might tape the chip out of sight on the inside of the steering column case. Fun, fun, fun.
ADDED LATER: My Elantra keys date back to pre-transponder era. No go.
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28 Posts
Tried to help my pops out. He has one master key.
went on ebay and purchased these JMA company TOYOTA MR2 TRANSPONDER CHIPPED KEY BLANK 89785-17020 TOY57-PT.
Went to my locksmith and had the key cut. He tried to use his JMA clone programmer which didnt work. I also tried the brake and accelerator dance which did not work as well.
Looks like a waste of $20.00 for the keys.
went on ebay and purchased these JMA company TOYOTA MR2 TRANSPONDER CHIPPED KEY BLANK 89785-17020 TOY57-PT.
Went to my locksmith and had the key cut. He tried to use his JMA clone programmer which didnt work. I also tried the brake and accelerator dance which did not work as well.
Looks like a waste of $20.00 for the keys.
I just did the dance and got 4 working just fine. Gotta follow the proper order and do it within the time frame. I bet you can get them to work...
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28 Posts
Yep!! totally screwed up a step! put the new key in, and apparently didnt touch the accelerator. they are working now!
I have a 2002 and I followed this programming procedures and it worked like a charm. I tried a few others that was different procedures and didn't work.
The one that did:
Programming a transponder key is not a secret and if it was it would seem kind of 'stoopid' to just pm it to anyone. The dealers would just rather you didn't know so you can get billed a half hour for 2 minutes of work. Anyway, so to program the key after you've had the local hardware store or whoever cut it to match the master:
get in the car
shut the doors
press and release the brake and gas pedal once
insert your master key into the ignition switch
press and release the gas pedal 5 times
press and release the brake pedal 6 times
remove master key
insert new key
press and release the brake and gas pedal once
wait 80 seconds
remove new key
press brake
and you're done. Something to note, during the 80 second wait you will see your alarm light blinking as if no transponder is present...when the key is done that light will go out because now your new key has a correctly programmed transponder. Lemme know if anyone has troubles with this and I'll see if I can find the site where I got the instructions originally. Also, the gas and brake dance steps that you have to do must be completed within 15 or 20 seconds of the previous step ...not really a hard thing to do but keep that in mind should you be reading the directions while doing it the first time.
I'll see if I can find that link to the store where I bought my key.
The one that did:
Programming a transponder key is not a secret and if it was it would seem kind of 'stoopid' to just pm it to anyone. The dealers would just rather you didn't know so you can get billed a half hour for 2 minutes of work. Anyway, so to program the key after you've had the local hardware store or whoever cut it to match the master:
get in the car
shut the doors
press and release the brake and gas pedal once
insert your master key into the ignition switch
press and release the gas pedal 5 times
press and release the brake pedal 6 times
remove master key
insert new key
press and release the brake and gas pedal once
wait 80 seconds
remove new key
press brake
and you're done. Something to note, during the 80 second wait you will see your alarm light blinking as if no transponder is present...when the key is done that light will go out because now your new key has a correctly programmed transponder. Lemme know if anyone has troubles with this and I'll see if I can find the site where I got the instructions originally. Also, the gas and brake dance steps that you have to do must be completed within 15 or 20 seconds of the previous step ...not really a hard thing to do but keep that in mind should you be reading the directions while doing it the first time.
I'll see if I can find that link to the store where I bought my key.
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668 Posts
If you've lost all of your master keys, be ready for a tough, expensive battle. I just went through the process, and I wanted to document it for the library.
The valet key cannot be used to program new master keys, so having that won't help you (except that you can still drive your car).
A locksmith can probably cut new keys, and there's a hack you can do (http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?44760-Lost-Keys-amp-Immobilizer-Fix) to reset the ECU and program new keys, but my locksmith wanted more than the dealership to do this and I didn't feel like buying all the electrical equipment (chip sockets/etc) to do it myself.
If you decide to go to the dealer you must bring:
> Current registration (not expired!)
> The current, registered owner of the car (e.g. if it's in your dad's name, he must come with you)
> Your Photo IDs
If possible, you should also bring:
> Printout of the programming procedure, TSB SS003-01: http://www.mr2roc.org/misc/referencelibrary/toyotaservicebulletins/16specialservicetools/06.pdf
> The key code, which is stamped on a little metal plate that came with the car keys when new:
![]()
> Also, you may want to get all your junk out from the cubby behind the driver's seat.
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In some Toyota models, the entire ECU/immobilizer has to be replaced if you lose the key. This is not an issue for us - our ECUs can be "re-seeded" (reset/reprogrammed) by the dealer. If you bring the TSB with you, it'll be easier to get a quote from the dealer. Otherwise, I've had a very hard time getting a straight answer on price.
Note: This seems to be a high-security ordeal. In CA, the dealer is required by law to file special paperwork to replace lost keys. They'll check your ID/registration, and it looks like even the tech's SSN is verified by Toyota when they request a new seed code.
-----------
Part 1: The physical key
First of all, you might want to go to the parts department so you can talk to them about prices. I saved $80 this way, as I'll explain later.
The master key is part # 89785-35020 "Transmitter, Transponder Key Master" - Get TWO. You want to keep a spare master key somewhere safe, that way you don't have to do the re-seed procedure if you lose a key again.
Be prepared for a surprised parts guy - all 3 dealers I went to said this was a really weird key, and only one dealer actually had it in stock. One dealer here wanted $50 each, but my parts guy says you should be able to get them for $26. Definitely ask your parts guy to match this.
Once you have the key blanks, the next step is to get them cut - this was $10 at one local dealer, free at another. However, if you don't have the key code (for the cutting machine), they might charge ANOTHER $10 to look it up by VIN number. The VIN lookup gives them the same code that is stamped on that metal plate. My dealer did both the cutting and code lookup for free (he did a VIN lookup to make sure the code on the plate was correct).
One dealer here wanted me to pay yet another $5 to cut a cheapo non-transponder key FIRST, just to make sure the cut was correct. The first dealer I went to did this for free. Good thing he did, because the key was hard to turn and got stuck when I tested it in the door! Turns out their cutting machine wasn't working right - a different dealer here cut keys with the same code and they worked perfectly.
Part 2: Programming the key
This is the hard part of the job, as you can see by the TSB I linked to. Because of the special procedure, I was quoted $390 by one dealer ($130/hr @ 3 hrs), $300 by another, then $200 by the last dealer. This is for labor ONLY, and is in addition to the price of the keys themselves. Supposedly some of the steps can take 10-20 minutes each - the write process is really slow and tends to fail a lot, forcing the tech to start over.
Bring all your keys with you - the new blanks, and your old valet key (assuming you still have it). They will have to re-program ALL keys into the ECU when they do the re-seed.
Get your stuff out from the cubby behind the driver's seat - The procedure says they need to jump a couple pins at the ECU. The guys at the service counter said it wasn't necessary, so I left all my crap (amp/subwoofer/misc cargo) blocking the way to the ECU. However, it looks like the mechanic did have to get to the ECU, because I noticed one of my amps was moved slightly and some wires were tucked away differently - I could tell he was very careful with my things back there, but it made the job that much harder for him.
Don't forget to ask for new dealership-quality key rings! Service dept should have them.
----------
Interestingly, I think my dealer may have reprogrammed my valet key like a master key. This means that even if I lose both master keys, the ECU will think that the valet key is a master key and let me use it to program more keys. The advantage to this is that I can create new master keys if I lose my two new ones. The downside is that if I give my car to a valet guy, he can program more keys too. I don't valet my car because I don't like people touching my car, so this is fine by me.
You can tell master/valet programming by looking at the immobilizer light (red LED near climate controls) when you insert the key.
No key: LED should be blinking (looks like a red blinking car alarm light)
Master key: LED stops blinking (stays turned off)
Valet key: LED lights up for a solid second or two, then turns off (no blinking)
Unprogrammed key: LED keeps blinking even though key is inserted. Car won't start.
----------
So, worst case, this would have cost me:
$50 key blank +
$50 key blank +
$10 VIN lookup +
$5 test key +
$10 key cut +
$10 key cut =
$135 subtotal, for parts +
$390 labor =
$525 for two keys
In my case, I only paid
$26 key blank +
$26 key blank +
$202 labor =
$254 total, and I got three keys (two master keys plus a free non-immobilizer key that I can still use if I accidentally lock my keys in the car or something).
----------
Aftermarket car alarms / remote start:
I have a DEI/Clifford/Viper remote start alarm (50.7x) with immobilizer bypass (PKALL). Because the immobilizer code changed in the ECU, I also had to update the PKALL. It's very easy - you basically unplug it, hold down the program button, then plug the connectors back in in the appropriate order (steps 2-6: http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6403&productid=196&firmwareid=1636).
You should also do the "erase all remotes" procedure on your alarm and re-pair your remaining/replacement remotes, assuming one of your remotes was lost with the keys (see your remote manual for procedures - some remotes have different instructions).
-----------
As for factory keyless remotes, that's a whole separate ballgame. I didn't lose my factory remote, so I didn't have to worry about it.
The valet key cannot be used to program new master keys, so having that won't help you (except that you can still drive your car).
A locksmith can probably cut new keys, and there's a hack you can do (http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?44760-Lost-Keys-amp-Immobilizer-Fix) to reset the ECU and program new keys, but my locksmith wanted more than the dealership to do this and I didn't feel like buying all the electrical equipment (chip sockets/etc) to do it myself.
If you decide to go to the dealer you must bring:
> Current registration (not expired!)
> The current, registered owner of the car (e.g. if it's in your dad's name, he must come with you)
> Your Photo IDs
If possible, you should also bring:
> Printout of the programming procedure, TSB SS003-01: http://www.mr2roc.org/misc/referencelibrary/toyotaservicebulletins/16specialservicetools/06.pdf
> The key code, which is stamped on a little metal plate that came with the car keys when new:
> Also, you may want to get all your junk out from the cubby behind the driver's seat.
-----------
In some Toyota models, the entire ECU/immobilizer has to be replaced if you lose the key. This is not an issue for us - our ECUs can be "re-seeded" (reset/reprogrammed) by the dealer. If you bring the TSB with you, it'll be easier to get a quote from the dealer. Otherwise, I've had a very hard time getting a straight answer on price.
Note: This seems to be a high-security ordeal. In CA, the dealer is required by law to file special paperwork to replace lost keys. They'll check your ID/registration, and it looks like even the tech's SSN is verified by Toyota when they request a new seed code.
-----------
Part 1: The physical key
First of all, you might want to go to the parts department so you can talk to them about prices. I saved $80 this way, as I'll explain later.
The master key is part # 89785-35020 "Transmitter, Transponder Key Master" - Get TWO. You want to keep a spare master key somewhere safe, that way you don't have to do the re-seed procedure if you lose a key again.
Be prepared for a surprised parts guy - all 3 dealers I went to said this was a really weird key, and only one dealer actually had it in stock. One dealer here wanted $50 each, but my parts guy says you should be able to get them for $26. Definitely ask your parts guy to match this.
Once you have the key blanks, the next step is to get them cut - this was $10 at one local dealer, free at another. However, if you don't have the key code (for the cutting machine), they might charge ANOTHER $10 to look it up by VIN number. The VIN lookup gives them the same code that is stamped on that metal plate. My dealer did both the cutting and code lookup for free (he did a VIN lookup to make sure the code on the plate was correct).
One dealer here wanted me to pay yet another $5 to cut a cheapo non-transponder key FIRST, just to make sure the cut was correct. The first dealer I went to did this for free. Good thing he did, because the key was hard to turn and got stuck when I tested it in the door! Turns out their cutting machine wasn't working right - a different dealer here cut keys with the same code and they worked perfectly.
Part 2: Programming the key
This is the hard part of the job, as you can see by the TSB I linked to. Because of the special procedure, I was quoted $390 by one dealer ($130/hr @ 3 hrs), $300 by another, then $200 by the last dealer. This is for labor ONLY, and is in addition to the price of the keys themselves. Supposedly some of the steps can take 10-20 minutes each - the write process is really slow and tends to fail a lot, forcing the tech to start over.
Bring all your keys with you - the new blanks, and your old valet key (assuming you still have it). They will have to re-program ALL keys into the ECU when they do the re-seed.
Get your stuff out from the cubby behind the driver's seat - The procedure says they need to jump a couple pins at the ECU. The guys at the service counter said it wasn't necessary, so I left all my crap (amp/subwoofer/misc cargo) blocking the way to the ECU. However, it looks like the mechanic did have to get to the ECU, because I noticed one of my amps was moved slightly and some wires were tucked away differently - I could tell he was very careful with my things back there, but it made the job that much harder for him.
Don't forget to ask for new dealership-quality key rings! Service dept should have them.
----------
Interestingly, I think my dealer may have reprogrammed my valet key like a master key. This means that even if I lose both master keys, the ECU will think that the valet key is a master key and let me use it to program more keys. The advantage to this is that I can create new master keys if I lose my two new ones. The downside is that if I give my car to a valet guy, he can program more keys too. I don't valet my car because I don't like people touching my car, so this is fine by me.
You can tell master/valet programming by looking at the immobilizer light (red LED near climate controls) when you insert the key.
No key: LED should be blinking (looks like a red blinking car alarm light)
Master key: LED stops blinking (stays turned off)
Valet key: LED lights up for a solid second or two, then turns off (no blinking)
Unprogrammed key: LED keeps blinking even though key is inserted. Car won't start.
----------
So, worst case, this would have cost me:
$50 key blank +
$50 key blank +
$10 VIN lookup +
$5 test key +
$10 key cut +
$10 key cut =
$135 subtotal, for parts +
$390 labor =
$525 for two keys
In my case, I only paid
$26 key blank +
$26 key blank +
$202 labor =
$254 total, and I got three keys (two master keys plus a free non-immobilizer key that I can still use if I accidentally lock my keys in the car or something).
----------
Aftermarket car alarms / remote start:
I have a DEI/Clifford/Viper remote start alarm (50.7x) with immobilizer bypass (PKALL). Because the immobilizer code changed in the ECU, I also had to update the PKALL. It's very easy - you basically unplug it, hold down the program button, then plug the connectors back in in the appropriate order (steps 2-6: http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6403&productid=196&firmwareid=1636).
You should also do the "erase all remotes" procedure on your alarm and re-pair your remaining/replacement remotes, assuming one of your remotes was lost with the keys (see your remote manual for procedures - some remotes have different instructions).
-----------
As for factory keyless remotes, that's a whole separate ballgame. I didn't lose my factory remote, so I didn't have to worry about it.
Bravo
Just wanted to say thank you to all,who have have contributed to this site,I bought a toyota key on line,(at least it looks like a toyota key and got it cut at home depot.I programed the key on the second attempt.This is my 7th mr2 since 1989,and my first spyder.It,s a 2003 blue with 75k miles.I think it is the best of the three generations.Live in south florida and the a/c is an ice blower.
Just wanted to say thank you to all,who have have contributed to this site,I bought a toyota key on line,(at least it looks like a toyota key and got it cut at home depot.I programed the key on the second attempt.This is my 7th mr2 since 1989,and my first spyder.It,s a 2003 blue with 75k miles.I think it is the best of the three generations.Live in south florida and the a/c is an ice blower.
I can do all the programming needed in this post. I charge $75 per ecu, includes return shipping. You just do the key dance with your new keys cut from elsewhere.
Joined
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202 Posts
DIY addition of a new Toyota Master key with TIS Techstream
recently added a new Toyota master key and remote to my car for a grand total of $32 and thought i’d add this information here…
i’ve not seen much information re: DIY Toyota TIS Techstream programming on SpyderChat, but it’s common elsewhere. i can confirm that it makes adding new keys to your Spyder a cheap, easy process (read: no trips to the dealer). i already had it for my other Toyota, but otherwise all it requires is a cheap (~$20) dongle (multiple purchase links nested within the thread linked below) that comes with bootleg Techstream software (also available widely elsewhere). although well documented, widely used, and far from fringe, if this gives you pause, then this is not for you.
for those of you who are completely unfamiliar with TIS Techstream, here’s Toyota’s official demo (Flash required) https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...techinfo/html/prelogin/docs/ts/tsUserDemo.htm
the following forum thread is a pretty good primer on Toyota TIS Techstream: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/121604-toyota-tis-techstream.html and you may find this specific post within the larger thread particularly helpful in getting Techstream properly installed: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/121604-toyota-tis-techstream-16.html#post1757846. i believe newer releases, or workarounds, have been developed to enable installation on more recent versions of Windows… i can’t speak to that personally, as i have mine installed on an old, decommissioned MacBook Pro that dual-boots into Win XP. it works beautifully.
all that said, a new genuine Toyota key and factory remote were purchased via eBay and the local Ace Hardware cut my new key for two bucks; can’t beat it. with all of the above in hand, the following video is a great step-by-step for using Techstream to register your new master key to the immobilizer ECU and programming your new remote via the “door dance”. (simply ignore all the business about swapping the key's innards.)
hope this information helps someone looking to make a spare set of keys without spending the big bucks at Mr. T.
recently added a new Toyota master key and remote to my car for a grand total of $32 and thought i’d add this information here…
i’ve not seen much information re: DIY Toyota TIS Techstream programming on SpyderChat, but it’s common elsewhere. i can confirm that it makes adding new keys to your Spyder a cheap, easy process (read: no trips to the dealer). i already had it for my other Toyota, but otherwise all it requires is a cheap (~$20) dongle (multiple purchase links nested within the thread linked below) that comes with bootleg Techstream software (also available widely elsewhere). although well documented, widely used, and far from fringe, if this gives you pause, then this is not for you.
for those of you who are completely unfamiliar with TIS Techstream, here’s Toyota’s official demo (Flash required) https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...techinfo/html/prelogin/docs/ts/tsUserDemo.htm
the following forum thread is a pretty good primer on Toyota TIS Techstream: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/121604-toyota-tis-techstream.html and you may find this specific post within the larger thread particularly helpful in getting Techstream properly installed: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/121604-toyota-tis-techstream-16.html#post1757846. i believe newer releases, or workarounds, have been developed to enable installation on more recent versions of Windows… i can’t speak to that personally, as i have mine installed on an old, decommissioned MacBook Pro that dual-boots into Win XP. it works beautifully.
all that said, a new genuine Toyota key and factory remote were purchased via eBay and the local Ace Hardware cut my new key for two bucks; can’t beat it. with all of the above in hand, the following video is a great step-by-step for using Techstream to register your new master key to the immobilizer ECU and programming your new remote via the “door dance”. (simply ignore all the business about swapping the key's innards.)
hope this information helps someone looking to make a spare set of keys without spending the big bucks at Mr. T.
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116 Posts
will this work if I got a used each? I have one of the keys to the ecu but the cut is different than my ignition.
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202 Posts
not certain what you're saying and/or which part of this thread you're responding to specifically... clarify?
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116 Posts
I just swapped out my smt to a 6spd mt. I have a used mt ecu. I was wondering if the procedure would work using my old keys. I have a master key for the used ecu.
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5,435 Posts
Cut a new plain key no transponder to match your existing lock and ignition cylinders (same cut as your old keys).
Hold the m/t transponder key that came with the m/t ecu on the steering column close to the ignition barrel, and insert the new plain no-transponder key in the ignition. This fools the sensor into thinking you have a transponder key in the ignition. Now you can follow the procedure and pair your old transponder keys (that match your locks) to the new ECU.
Hold the m/t transponder key that came with the m/t ecu on the steering column close to the ignition barrel, and insert the new plain no-transponder key in the ignition. This fools the sensor into thinking you have a transponder key in the ignition. Now you can follow the procedure and pair your old transponder keys (that match your locks) to the new ECU.
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2 Posts
Just curious if you were successful? About to order 2 keys and try this on my own 2003 since everyone around town wants to charge me 120+ dollars for ONE key and I can buy 2 blanks (TOY57PT with 4C chip) from amazon for 17$...
Anyone else that's gotten this to work with a 2003 5/MT to confirm would really make me feel better lol
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116 Posts
how can you tell if you have a master key?
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259 Posts
Tried the dance twice with ebay key as in post 24 above, no good, Instead, neither the "master" nor the ebay key would open the door locks afterwards. Waited 30 minutes and then "master" would unlock, but not the new one which originally unlocked ....Hmmm will look at fuse tip (above) and test "are you really a master?" A little "finning" on the new one which I gently buffed off.
edit. Forgot ...after the first dance the new key would crank, but not start. The blinking cursor did not go out either time.
edit. "master key " opens glove box and cubby and curser goes out immediately. Two more dances no go. Finally found the fuse box (ha ha) and as suggested some fuses are missing: SMT-B 10 AMP, ETCS 15 AMP, HPU 30 AMP. Gotta find some small fuses and try again.
Edit: All fuses in place. Tried several versions of the steps. Waited up to 3 minutes-no good. Thinking of trying another source for blank key . The ebay key was bagged with "proper" Toy number, key embossed :source initials JMA, TOYO 20DP. Maybe I just cannot do the Tango!
edit. Forgot ...after the first dance the new key would crank, but not start. The blinking cursor did not go out either time.
edit. "master key " opens glove box and cubby and curser goes out immediately. Two more dances no go. Finally found the fuse box (ha ha) and as suggested some fuses are missing: SMT-B 10 AMP, ETCS 15 AMP, HPU 30 AMP. Gotta find some small fuses and try again.
Edit: All fuses in place. Tried several versions of the steps. Waited up to 3 minutes-no good. Thinking of trying another source for blank key . The ebay key was bagged with "proper" Toy number, key embossed :source initials JMA, TOYO 20DP. Maybe I just cannot do the Tango!
21 - 40 of 66 Posts
