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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
THE REAR QUARTER PANEL REMOVAL
two bolts when you open the door



one bolt hid under the rubber at the top of the door..little rubber tabs hold it on..just give it a little tug and they will come out.



three bolts under the car



two bolts under the engine bay lid on the sides



two bolts on the back corner under the bumper cover



take the Plastic wheel liner out by just removing all plastic clips
then take the bolt out of the brace facing the front of the car on the inside of the fender




then the gas tank nozzle plastic has 3 screw to remove



then look on the backside of the gas tank and unhook the wire by just twisting it off



then pull the plastic piece out



then take the bolt out that is the covor for the hardtop piece



take it off, and there will be another bolt under there to remove



NOW, this is the part where you can do 1 of 2 things. take the softtop off, and remove the two bolts on the bracket that the fender is spot welded to, or do what i did and just drill out the welds. there are three of them (easy to drill out, but dont let the drill go through to far or it will hit the top "diaper" under it.



here are the two bolts that hold the brace (just incase someone wants to see them)



and then you have this...

 

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Great write-up! I would just like to add that the 3 spot welds drilled out, in my case, were just snaps that I popped apart. It's probably better to remove the two screws under the top.
 

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I removed my rear fender today using Bus-Driver's info above.
I hope these pictures will help somebody else. I didn't realize that I shouldn't have drilled off the three rivets. I found the two hidden bolts later!#%
Tips:
I'd not recommend drilling off the rivets. I bent up the flanges a little bit horsing around to get them free. Then I had to re-weld the bracket back to the fender flange.
The star-bolts in the door jamb gave me trouble. One of them [email protected]# I eventually had to cut a flat slot, and use an impact driver to get it loose. Probably should have soaked them with PB blaster.
The gas-door latch cable does not require tools to remove. Just turn the housing 1/4 while you hold the other side by the gas cap. But it does have a stubborn catch!







 

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That was my experience Cyclehead. I was able to pop the flange off but think it may be difficult to pop it back on later. I believe they aren't actually rivets or spot welds but a type of crimp. People probably drilled them out thinking they were spot welds or because they weren't aware of the two hidden screws.You did a beautiful job with the pictures and captions.
 

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It took me about three hours to jack the car and remove the front bumper cover, frunk lid, LH front fender and LH rear fender. Rear fender took the longest, maybe a good hour of fighting it - between the rivets, the gas door cable, the stripped doorjamb screw head, disassembling some of the ragtop linkage, and cleaning up the two pounds of dirt that came pouring out of the rear wheel well.
 

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and cleaning up the two pounds of dirt that came pouring out of the rear wheel well.
That's one way to lighten up the car; should move quicker now; maybe take a couple pounds out of the other fender? Is that from off-roading it?:)
Thanks again for the work you did and of course for the work busdriver did. I won't have to put it memory this way for the next time I have to take the fender off.
 
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