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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Looked around to see how people were removing the SMT HPU Capables, after doing it myself I figured I'd post this for future use. Taking out the SMT is pretty simple and easy until you get to the "Quick Connecters". Theres nothing "quick" about em, but it's not overly complicated.



Tools Recommended
  • Small Screw Driver That Fits in Sleeve
  • Hyrdraulic Clutch Disconnection Tool
  • Zip Ties


The white ring has to be pushed into the colored sleeve, and while the ring is beneath the sleeve the sleeve has to be pushed down to get the pins to disconnect.

Problems Came Across
  • The ring isn't pushed in high enough
  • The white ring will not stay as far into the sleeve as needed to push the sleeve down
  • The white ring is not evenly pressed against all pins within the circular sleeve
  • Damaging the bottoms of the white rings
From What I've heard, some come off easy, some come off hard. It's the luck of the draw. But they can be a real PITA. I spent hours working through the first one and discovered, (also with the help of cap) The white ring HAS to be pushed in EVENLY. Now a lot of people say use a small screw driver (which works fantastic) but to come off the ring needs to have Equal distribution to disconnect the pins. Pushing one side without equal distribution, these pins aren't coming off.


The Remedy to all the problems listed above was zipties. They kept the rings from sliding down, they were strong and plenty durable, yet small enough to fit within the grooves. The zipties allow for equal distribution across the entire white ring. The best part is they can take all the damage from the tools, screw driver or 16mm wrench, or anything else you use to assist in the aid of forcing the white ring up. The first one simply popped off in a matter of minutes.



NOTE:The Middle Connector is not the same as the red and blue, the grooves and fit are a bit different. The middle one took the longest to re-figure out. Some may have an easy time with connectors that pop strait off, others may have connecters like mine that did not want to budge.

The ziptie that is on the gold connecter was actually cut to be a little bit thinner in width so it would fit being that it has different grooves. That's when the next tool came in handy.


Ford Hydrolic Clutch Disconnection Tool.
To my understanding Fords have the same type of connection, the tool is no more than 10 bucks. I got one for 8 at Advanced auto, but it was cheap and easily bent to the stubborness of my connectors not coming off.

I would try finding one more sturdy than the one from AA, but in the end it got the Job done.

As you can see with the ZipTie and the disconnect tool, the ring is pushed all the way in, yet still not coming off. This then became a two man job. With one pushing down on the connect tool to force the ring higher, and myself pushing down and twisting the gold sleeve the last finally came off.

So be it simple or complex, hope that helps in getting these "quick" connects off.
 

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I had real problems with the middle one because some jackass had used some kind of griping tool and made it oval in shape. Put the plastic in all the way but it wouldn't come off. Had to take a big poly grip and really squeeze it back to a round shape and then it just came off. And back again when it looked as it dit but so far no leaks.

Those SMT:s... but mine works fine now! :)
 

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Removing SMT hydraulic hoses

I was bench testing some GSAs this weekend and thought I'd shoot a video of popping off the quick disconnects. No real skill to see, just me scratching around with screwdrivers. (second video is still uploading)

For reference - the blue and red connectors are anodized aluminum.

The gold connector is steel and it loves to rust. I've had two so far that were too rusted to [email protected]# If that happens the only option is to unscrew them from the GSA and HPU housings. The small 9mm wrench flats at the HPU are nasty. They round off. Try lots of penetrating oil and tapping it with a punch.


 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was bench testing some GSAs this weekend and thought I'd shoot a video of popping off the quick disconnects. No real skill to see, just me scratching around with screwdrivers. (second video is still uploading)

For reference - the blue and red connectors are anodized aluminum.

The gold connector is steel and it loves to rust. I've had two so far that were too rusted to [email protected]# If that happens the only option is to unscrew them from the GSA and HPU housings. The small 9mm wrench flats at the HPU are nasty. They round off. Try lots of penetrating oil and tapping it with a punch.

Golden vid. Late to the party, but Zipties really help keep them from sliding back down and lowers the frustration of toggling if they want to be difficult.
 

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Is it possible to replace the solenoids on the GSA or we have to change the GSA?
There is a trick to remove them. They have a fat oring at the base that must be compressed before you can remove the setscrew pin that keeps the solenoid in place. I use a bench vice with 6” wide jaws.
If you send me a pm with your email address, I can forward three pdf files I wrote showing how to remove and disassemble the GSA and HPU.
 

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There is a trick to remove them. They have a fat oring at the base that must be compressed before you can remove the setscrew pin that keeps the solenoid in place. I use a bench vice with 6” wide jaws.
If you send me a pm with your email address, I can forward three pdf files I wrote showing how to remove and disassemble the GSA and HPU.
[email protected]
 
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