MR2 SpyderChat banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I know its a pretty straight forward job but a fellow member asked for some help with it so here's my write up, hopefully its in the correct place lol.

The only tools you'll need is a flat head screwdriver and ratchet wrench with a 10mm and possibly a 19mm socket. Of course, you will also need the correct o-ring(Toyota Part #9030122013 )or tensioner assembly(whichever you are planning to replace).

I apologize in advance for the crappy pics...I REALLY need to get a new camera.

First off, loosen the two 10mm nuts and thread them to the end of the stud but do not remove them completely.



With the nuts still on a couple threads, take your screwdriver and carefully pry back the tensioner plate. It will eventually pop back and the nuts will keep it from flying off(thus why we kept them on)


Now take off the two nuts and remove the tensioner. As you can see, mine was dirty..so I cleaned it up a bit ^_^



This pic is random but make sure to clean the mating surface and around the area as much as possible. This way you can easily detect leaks in the future and be sure that this fixed your problem.


Now, take your tensioner and carefully remove the old o-ring, using a screwdriver if needed.


Installing the new o-ring is pretty self-explanatory, it might take a bit of work but it should slip right into the groove.


To complete the next step, press down on the tab I have circled in the picture and push the piston down into the tensioner(you may need to use a screwdriver to press the tab, I don't have much in the line of fingernails). A little oil will probably squirt out, no biggie.


Now with the piston pushed all the way down, slip the small swivel latch onto the pin and release your grip. The latch should hold the piston down, making your tensioner ready for installation.


With the latch/pin facing upwards, replace the tensioner onto the studs and hand tighten the nuts(it is VERY important that you replace it correctly).


Now tighten each nut a little bit at a time, going back and forth between the two, ensuring that everything seats properly. The torque spec for this is only 80 in-lbs, that's about 6 ft-lbs. So not much torque is needed, just be sure that everything is snug. In the process of tightening you should hear a click/pop sound, so you know that the latch released and the piston is now putting tension on the chain. If you didn't hear anything(such as in my case), make sure the nuts are snug and get under your car with the ratchet/19mm socket. Now turn the crank pulley a little bit at a time until you here the click. If you still don't hear anything, take the tensioner back out and make sure you installed it correctly.



Now you're all done.

If you were replacing the entire tensioner assembly, the process is the same, you know what steps to leave out.

I know I may have been a bit extensive with this but hopefully it helps someone.

-Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
I am the member who requested this, thank you very much.

I never experienced any symptoms but was told by my dealer that it was leaking. They wanted $115 for the repair ($2.75 for the part w/tax) so I thought I might give it a try but needed some well-founded advice:peace:.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,748 Posts
This item should be moved to the library. I think Blackcreek has the writeup there for the rest of the assembly, and this "how-to" completes the instructions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,789 Posts
Good write-up Mooky.

Regarding turning the crank to get the click/pop sound, if my memory serves me right, you're supposed to turn the crank just a little bit counter-clockwise instead of the "normal" direction. Might want to verify this against what the BGB says about this since I could always be wrong going off of memory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,789 Posts
I am the member who requested this, thank you very much.

I never experienced any symptoms but was told by my dealer that it was leaking. They wanted $115 for the repair ($2.75 for the part w/tax) so I thought I might give it a try but needed some well-founded advice:peace:.
It's easier than changing your oil imo. You only have to take off two little nuts! $115 is highway robbery. You could save yourself a lot more money on things like this if you buy a Toyota "Big Green Book" (BGB ) repair manual for the car. Great investment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,192 Posts
Much better instructions than one of the manuals in PDF that I have, since yours has better pictures. Here is an excerpt of the PDF I have with some additional info related to the belt tensioner. There's also torque specs and 5th grade illustrations:lol::

"(c) Remove the 2 nuts and chain tensioner."


(u) Install chain tensioner.
(1) Check the O–ring is clean, and set the hook as
shown in the illustration.
(2) Apply engine oil to the chain tensioner and install it
with the 2 nuts.
Torque: 9.0 NVm (92 kgfVcm, 80 inVlbf)
NOTICE:
When installing the tensioner, set the hook again if the
hook release the plunger.
(3) Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, and disconnect
the plunger knock pin from the hook.
(4) Turn the crankshaft clockwise, and check that the
slipper is pushed by the plunger.
HINT:
If the plunger does not spring out, press the slipper into the
chain tensioner with a screwdriver so that the hook is released
from the knock pin and the plunger springs out.






14. INSTALL V–RIBBED BELT TENSIONER ASSY
(a) Install the V–ribbed belt tensioner with the nut and bolt.
Torque:
29 NVm (296 kgfVcm, 21 ftVlbf) for Nut
69 NVm (704 kgfVcm, 51 ftVlbf) for Bolt



Nice work. This definitely should be added to the library as SE has proposed.

(If anyone's interested in the full PDF, that explains the process of changing out cams and checking valve clearances, just pm me with your e-mail address.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Is it neccesery to pull the valve and chain cover to check the timing after this? Some one told me its possible the chain jumps when the tensioner is pulled out because there can be tension in the camshafts when its not on its tdp when pulling it out..

Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-D855 met Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,969 Posts
Is it neccesery to pull the valve and chain cover to check the timing after this? Some one told me its possible the chain jumps when the tensioner is pulled out because there can be tension in the camshafts when its not on its tdp when pulling it out..

Verstuurd vanaf mijn LG-D855 met Tapatalk
You don't need to check the timing if you remove and replace the tensioner. It shouldn't cause you a problem, just don't spin the motor with the tensioner removed and you should be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
This seems like a super easy DIY. Even the entire brand new OEM tensioner (13540-0D010) is only $30.

Do these tend to wear out over time? I have a slight whine from my engine that increases with engine speed, in or out of gear so not the transmission. The sound reminds me of a small remote control car whine. It also sounds awfully familliar to the mid 2000s Nissan VQ35DE chain tensioners that tend to wear out.

I might give this a shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,969 Posts
This seems like a super easy DIY. Even the entire brand new OEM tensioner (13540-0D010) is only $30.

Do these tend to wear out over time? I have a slight whine from my engine that increases with engine speed, in or out of gear so not the transmission. The sound reminds me of a small remote control car whine. It also sounds awfully familliar to the mid 2000s Nissan VQ35DE chain tensioners that tend to wear out.

I might give this a shot.
Generally no. I believe as long as you use synthetic oil you should not have a problem. These tensioners tend to fail at the teeth that hold them in position during start up or the oil passages become occluded because dirty engine oil occludes passages giving way to less hydraulic pressure which is what keeps the guides tight against the chain.

They do not make a whining nose. Generally it will make a clicking or rattling sound especially on start up. No need to change it if its working and only use synthetic oil.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top