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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The belt tensioner is known to make noise and/or rattle when going bad. There are no instructions for repair so most just replace the entire assembly which can get expensive. There are three items on the tensioner which can go bad, the spring/shock unit, the fulcrum pin, and the belt pulley. If your spring/shock unit is bad you can now buy the tensioner spring/shock (part number 16601-22011) or go buy a complete new tensioner assembly. The fulcrum pin and pulley are able to be serviced so follow along...

First up is checking the spring tension and getting the belt off. I use a ratchet and a box wrench to make it easier to get an angle so I can put lots of leverage on the tensioner but you can use any wrench or socket combo just be careful as this could be a real knuckle buster. The spring tension is high so you should have to put quite a bit of force on the tensioner to get the belt off. If you can put a regular ratchet wrench on the tensioner and get it compressed easily you need a new spring/shock so you can stop reading and just go get a new assembly. If you have to use a lot of force your spring is probably good so keep going.



Pull the belt off and check it closely for frays and cracks, belts tend to squeal when they get old and worn so replace it if in doubt.

Next up....remove the tensioner assembly. This is a 2zz but the 1zz comes off the same way. (For you lucky 2zz owners you may have to remove the forward and aft motor mount bolts and tilt the engine from the back up towards the firewall to get enough clearance to remove the shock off the back of the head.) The 1zz will unbolt with no problems just undo the bolt on the spring/shock unit (12mm box wrench) and the large bolt holding the assembly on.



Here is the unit and first up is checking/removing the pulley. Spin the pulley it should be quiet with no binding or wobble but since I have gone this far I am just going to replace it anyway. Good luck finding the socket that will fit this bolt so just put it in a vice and use a big vice grip to get the bolt off. I just made sure to clamp down tight and the bolt came off no problem.



Remove the pulley and set it aside. Now attack the fulcrum pin by placing in a vice and knocking off the washer on the pulley side of the tensioner. This is actually quite easy not much force required at all just use a small screwdriver to get the edge up and it pops right off.



Now pull the pin out the back and also pull the o-ring out of the front and the back. It should look like this when you are done.



Clean the pin and the bore with some solvent then use some grease to lube the bore and the pin making sure to lube the shoulder also. A little grease goes a long way here.



Replace the o-ring in the bore opposite the pulley side and then push the fulcrum pin in. Put the other o-ring in the front side then lube the shoulder with a little grease and put the washer back on.



Now we need to press the washer back on so just place it in the vice and press it back on, once again this does not take much force. Make sure the thick part of the fulcrum washer is facing the engine side of the motor and you have it correct.



Next up is the new pulley. NAPA part number 38018 (14 dollars) or equivalent.



Loctite the threads and put the new pulley on with the vice grips or you can get a new bolt with a regular head, I just use the funky one and tighten it down good.



Inspect your work by grabbing the sides of the fulcrum pin and moving the assembly arm. You should now have easy and silent movement and the new pulley should be silent.



Bolt everything back up and go enjoy your car.
 

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What a great write-up. Thanks so much.
 

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Thank you!
 

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I had to replace mine mid-swap; the spring/shock unit, went bye bye.
 

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Excellent write-up and pics
 

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Excellent post. Biblioteca por favor.
 

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The top of my belt tensioner assembly looks oily and seem to be leaking. And my pulleys are making a high pitched whining sound lately. Does this mean i have to replace the whole tensioner assembly?

Think i might have thrown the car around too much to have this problem within a year of brand new ownership. Or are there any aftermarket parts which is more sturdy?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Blackcreek @ Jan 21 2008, 03:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
If your spring/shock unit is bad you are out of luck so just go buy a new tensioner assembly.[/b]
Apparently Toyota realized they go bad more often than they should and you can now buy the spring/shock part separately. It costs about third of the whole tensioner.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Tem @ Mar 27 2008, 03:58 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Blackcreek @ Jan 21 2008, 03:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If your spring/shock unit is bad you are out of luck so just go buy a new tensioner assembly.[/b]
Apparently Toyota realized they go bad more often than they should and you can now buy the spring/shock part separately. It costs about third of the whole tensioner.
[/b][/quote]


Whereabouts can you them? I cant seem to find the OEM part which is just the spring/shock part of the whole tensioner.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tOs @ Mar 27 2008, 10:59 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Tem @ Mar 27 2008, 03:58 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Blackcreek @ Jan 21 2008, 03:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If your spring/shock unit is bad you are out of luck so just go buy a new tensioner assembly.[/b]
Apparently Toyota realized they go bad more often than they should and you can now buy the spring/shock part separately. It costs about third of the whole tensioner.
[/b][/quote]


Whereabouts can you them? I cant seem to find the OEM part which is just the spring/shock part of the whole tensioner.
[/b][/quote]

From my local dealer in Finland.


I assume they would be available from every Toyota. Apparently it's a new part and only shows on the recent parts cataloques. Were you looking at some older data?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Tem any chance you could get a part #? Also do you know if 2zz and 1zz spring/shocks are different part #s? If I get the part numbers I will go back and update the instruction. Thanks.
 

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When looking for a new assembly for my 2zz. I did notice that the Part Numbers for the spring/shock for both the 1zz and 2zz were the same.

I wanted to know this because the salvage yards said they wouldn't sell me a tensioner because the spring/shock goes bad just sitting in the yard. And I was able to tell them that I didn't need that part because I already had one. But it didn't work and I still had to buy a new assembly.

BTW if anyone is looking for a new assembly I got mine from 1stToyotaParts.com it was $120 plus shipping which came out to be about $10.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhyT @ Mar 27 2008, 09:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
When looking for a new assembly for my 2zz. I did notice that the Part Numbers for the spring/shock for both the 1zz and 2zz were the same.

I wanted to know this because the salvage yards said they wouldn't sell me a tensioner because the spring/shock goes bad just sitting in the yard. And I was able to tell them that I didn't need that part because I already had one. But it didn't work and I still had to buy a new assembly.

BTW if anyone is looking for a new assembly I got mine from 1stToyotaParts.com it was $120 plus shipping which came out to be about $10.[/b]
Anyway...is there any probable cause of this frequent belt tensioner failure? Such as over-revving, pushing the car too hard on corners or things like that which might have accelerated the wear rate? Could it be a design flaw or something similar? Or are they simply just under-spec for a car like this? Just wondering.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Blackcreek @ Mar 28 2008, 04:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Tem any chance you could get a part #?[/b]
Oops, I don't read this area too often, but here goes:
16601-22011


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Also do you know if 2zz and 1zz spring/shocks are different part #s?[/b]
Not 100% sure, but they do look and feel identical.
 
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