The belt tensioner is known to make noise and/or rattle when going bad. There are no instructions for repair so most just replace the entire assembly which can get expensive. There are three items on the tensioner which can go bad, the spring/shock unit, the fulcrum pin, and the belt pulley. If your spring/shock unit is bad you can now buy the tensioner spring/shock (part number 16601-22011) or go buy a complete new tensioner assembly. The fulcrum pin and pulley are able to be serviced so follow along...
First up is checking the spring tension and getting the belt off. I use a ratchet and a box wrench to make it easier to get an angle so I can put lots of leverage on the tensioner but you can use any wrench or socket combo just be careful as this could be a real knuckle buster. The spring tension is high so you should have to put quite a bit of force on the tensioner to get the belt off. If you can put a regular ratchet wrench on the tensioner and get it compressed easily you need a new spring/shock so you can stop reading and just go get a new assembly. If you have to use a lot of force your spring is probably good so keep going.
Pull the belt off and check it closely for frays and cracks, belts tend to squeal when they get old and worn so replace it if in doubt.
Next up....remove the tensioner assembly. This is a 2zz but the 1zz comes off the same way. (For you lucky 2zz owners you may have to remove the forward and aft motor mount bolts and tilt the engine from the back up towards the firewall to get enough clearance to remove the shock off the back of the head.) The 1zz will unbolt with no problems just undo the bolt on the spring/shock unit (12mm box wrench) and the large bolt holding the assembly on.
Here is the unit and first up is checking/removing the pulley. Spin the pulley it should be quiet with no binding or wobble but since I have gone this far I am just going to replace it anyway. Good luck finding the socket that will fit this bolt so just put it in a vice and use a big vice grip to get the bolt off. I just made sure to clamp down tight and the bolt came off no problem.
Remove the pulley and set it aside. Now attack the fulcrum pin by placing in a vice and knocking off the washer on the pulley side of the tensioner. This is actually quite easy not much force required at all just use a small screwdriver to get the edge up and it pops right off.
Now pull the pin out the back and also pull the o-ring out of the front and the back. It should look like this when you are done.
Clean the pin and the bore with some solvent then use some grease to lube the bore and the pin making sure to lube the shoulder also. A little grease goes a long way here.
Replace the o-ring in the bore opposite the pulley side and then push the fulcrum pin in. Put the other o-ring in the front side then lube the shoulder with a little grease and put the washer back on.
Now we need to press the washer back on so just place it in the vice and press it back on, once again this does not take much force. Make sure the thick part of the fulcrum washer is facing the engine side of the motor and you have it correct.
Next up is the new pulley. NAPA part number 38018 (14 dollars) or equivalent.
Loctite the threads and put the new pulley on with the vice grips or you can get a new bolt with a regular head, I just use the funky one and tighten it down good.
Inspect your work by grabbing the sides of the fulcrum pin and moving the assembly arm. You should now have easy and silent movement and the new pulley should be silent.
Bolt everything back up and go enjoy your car.
First up is checking the spring tension and getting the belt off. I use a ratchet and a box wrench to make it easier to get an angle so I can put lots of leverage on the tensioner but you can use any wrench or socket combo just be careful as this could be a real knuckle buster. The spring tension is high so you should have to put quite a bit of force on the tensioner to get the belt off. If you can put a regular ratchet wrench on the tensioner and get it compressed easily you need a new spring/shock so you can stop reading and just go get a new assembly. If you have to use a lot of force your spring is probably good so keep going.
Pull the belt off and check it closely for frays and cracks, belts tend to squeal when they get old and worn so replace it if in doubt.
Next up....remove the tensioner assembly. This is a 2zz but the 1zz comes off the same way. (For you lucky 2zz owners you may have to remove the forward and aft motor mount bolts and tilt the engine from the back up towards the firewall to get enough clearance to remove the shock off the back of the head.) The 1zz will unbolt with no problems just undo the bolt on the spring/shock unit (12mm box wrench) and the large bolt holding the assembly on.
Here is the unit and first up is checking/removing the pulley. Spin the pulley it should be quiet with no binding or wobble but since I have gone this far I am just going to replace it anyway. Good luck finding the socket that will fit this bolt so just put it in a vice and use a big vice grip to get the bolt off. I just made sure to clamp down tight and the bolt came off no problem.
Remove the pulley and set it aside. Now attack the fulcrum pin by placing in a vice and knocking off the washer on the pulley side of the tensioner. This is actually quite easy not much force required at all just use a small screwdriver to get the edge up and it pops right off.
Now pull the pin out the back and also pull the o-ring out of the front and the back. It should look like this when you are done.
Clean the pin and the bore with some solvent then use some grease to lube the bore and the pin making sure to lube the shoulder also. A little grease goes a long way here.
Replace the o-ring in the bore opposite the pulley side and then push the fulcrum pin in. Put the other o-ring in the front side then lube the shoulder with a little grease and put the washer back on.
Now we need to press the washer back on so just place it in the vice and press it back on, once again this does not take much force. Make sure the thick part of the fulcrum washer is facing the engine side of the motor and you have it correct.
Next up is the new pulley. NAPA part number 38018 (14 dollars) or equivalent.
Loctite the threads and put the new pulley on with the vice grips or you can get a new bolt with a regular head, I just use the funky one and tighten it down good.
Inspect your work by grabbing the sides of the fulcrum pin and moving the assembly arm. You should now have easy and silent movement and the new pulley should be silent.
Bolt everything back up and go enjoy your car.