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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I think its about time to replace my Koni yellows since I think they were one of the first things I changed on this spyder. Today I was trying to adjust the front and it was stuck. I tried wd40 and using a heat gun but ultimatly it snaped off.

I'm thinking of getting KYB-GR2 I never liked the adjustment of the Koni yellow as its hard to know if I turned each shock the same amount. It was probably pot holes in SoCal that destoryed them.

Question:
1. Should I order from MWR or Tire Rack(free shipping)
2. Are there any other parts I should replace while doing this? Will these fit with Swift Springs?
82575


3. Should I replace this also?
82576




Going to use this Video for how to:
 

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Stock Springs - the KYB are fine
Stiffer lowering springs - get new Koni inserts
 

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I would look for the receipt and go for warranty replacement. Keeping the caps on the top might help reduce the chances of the adjustment shaft binding. A bit of grease around the shaft may help to keep it free. I haven't adjusted my Koni's since I found the happy spot for my taste.
 

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Also adjustable shocks should never be set fully soft or stiff. Always about 1/8 turn away from hard stop is the closest you should leave them at.
 

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On my first Spyder I used KYB excel-G shocks to replace the suspension with stock springs. They were stupidly cheap $250 - $300 shipped & rode very comfortably however I can't comment on mixing them with other springs. Mismatched rebound/damper rates on struts & spring rates can go very poorly together even when each product is quality on its own.

I don't know if the boots will fit under the springs that you'd have, it'd be worth looking into the internal diameter of those vs stock to see if there's a difference. I would definitely replace the top mount (old bearing will make a new suspension moan), boot, & bump stop.

Just be careful with the spring compressor as that's the one thing that can really get you hurt doing this job...otherwise its very straightforward. I assume you have an impact gun to tighten the top nuts during assembly...use care here as well. On the first ugga dugga just let off immediately as these are easily overtightened. I took a quick peek at the vid you linked...for the love of God don't "bury" them in the sand & don't grab the shaft of the struts, just use an impact gun for the top nuts (one of the few times an impact gun is recommended for tightening). Also, don't be an idiot that puts the spring compressor on in such a way that it prevents access to the side you need to assemble. Lastly...I would watch a ChrisFix video or anyone else to see how to actually use a spring compressor.
 
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Also adjustable shocks should never be set fully soft or stiff. Always about 1/8 turn away from hard stop is the closest you should leave them at.
Just because I don't this myself, but what is the reasoning behind this? (Reminds me of when my brother told me "never turn your steering wheel to full-lock.")
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
On my first Spyder I used KYB excel-G shocks to replace the suspension with stock springs. They were stupidly cheap $250 - $300 shipped & rode very comfortably however I can't comment on mixing them with other springs. Mismatched rebound/damper rates on struts & spring rates can go very poorly together even when each product is quality on its own.

I don't know if the boots will fit under the springs that you'd have, it'd be worth looking into the internal diameter of those vs stock to see if there's a difference. I would definitely replace the top mount (old bearing will make a new suspension moan), boot, & bump stop.

Just be careful with the spring compressor as that's the one thing that can really get you hurt doing this job...otherwise its very straightforward. I assume you have an impact gun to tighten the top nuts during assembly...use care here as well. On the first ugga dugga just let off immediately as these are easily overtightened. I took a quick peek at the vid you linked...for the love of God don't "bury" them in the sand & don't grab the shaft of the struts, just use an impact gun for the top nuts (one of the few times an impact gun is recommended for tightening). Also, don't be an idiot that puts the spring compressor on in such a way that it prevents access to the side you need to assemble. Lastly...I would watch a ChrisFix video or anyone else to see how to actually use a spring compressor.
If the boot is too big can I cut them smaller?

Do you have the good chrisfix video link? I see one with a mazda macpherson strut.



lol
 

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Since you have a reference order number I'd think yoy could verify other info to prove it was your purchase (credit card billing info, etc); nothing to lose by trying.

If the springs are too small the boots may not fit but the bump stops can be trimmed to fit.

Any video is good as long as it shows using a spring compressor. That part is truly fugazzi on the vid that you had linked. The steps for removal & reinstallation are correct otherwise...and of course you'll need an alignment when changing struts.
 
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This is all I have.
View attachment 82580
Is that enought?

If I where in charge of warranty replacement I would want your name on an invoice or a receipt with the vendors name. It can't hurt to try but more purchase info would help.

I got 90k out of the front Koni's. Of course I didn't save my receipt from the initial purchase. At that mileage I didn't feel to bad about a second purchase of Koni's. The instructions do say not to adjust at either end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since you have a reference order number I'd think yoy could verify other info to prove it was your purchase (credit card billing info, etc); nothing to lose by trying.

If the springs are too small the boots may not fit but the bump stops can be trimmed to fit.

Any video is good as long as it shows using a spring compressor. That part is truly fugazzi on the vid that you had linked. The steps for removal & reinstallation are correct otherwise...and of course you'll need an alignment when changing struts.
I already ordered the GR2 but ill keep the Konis and try to get them replaced.

But yea im not too worried about getting them replaced 2010 was a long time ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm guessing im going to have questions later about triming down the bumpstop and triming the dust cover to fit inside the swift springs.


FYI:
82581
82582


Got Parts from 3 places:


 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update: Installed the KYB GR2 with my Swift Springs. Got alignment. These feel like my Koni yellows adjusted to the middle range its pretty stiff. Koni yellow at its most soft range I believe is softer. I left the bump stop unchanged. Decided not to use the fast cam bolts. Replaced the front strut mount with master pro from oreillys. MY KYB strut mount snapped cause I was stupid and put the wrong torque. I got a digital Torque wrench much better.
 
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