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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
To start, I drove my car on saturday. The clutch was starting to slip under heavy, heavy load, and at 85,000 miles, I figured it was time for a new one. I drove the car into my garage with no problems

On sunday, I replaced the clutch in my '02 SMT. Everything was rather painless- I dropped the accumulator pressure using techstream, even though I didn't disconnect any of the hoses from the Accumulator, I just removed the physical part from the rear subframe. The clutch swap itself was rather painless. The clutch that came out was down to the rivets, so a new flywheel went in as well.

After putting it all together, I started the car to see if I had everything connected correctly. Sure enough it fires right up and the idle starts hunting. The "N" indicator is on, but trying to put it into "S" makes it blink (basically saying it can't do that) So I shut the car back off and use techstream to do a "parts exchange" per the Big Green Books instructions. Well, it goes through a few cycles of "Re-Learning" the first being 15 seconds, the second being 60 seconds, with a few on/off cycles per the software's instruction. As it re-learned, I could hear the car start pumping the clutch in and out, I assumed as part of the relearn procedure.

The very last step of the "parts exchange" has you start the car and wait for the car to illuminate the neutral light, then put it into "S" and drive it between 4 and 21 mph in 1st gear. The issue is that the neutral light never came on. Now, even using Techstream, I can't use the test functions to move anything related to the Gear Shift actuator, or run the accumulator decompression test. Even weirder, the clutch continues to move in and out repeatedly as long as the battery is still connected. It moves in and out 3 times, twice, then the HPU kicks on to re-pressurize the accumulator. I've tried redoing the parts exchange several times now with no change in results.

There are currently no diagnostic trouble codes being thrown. The GSA shaft is sitting in the neutral position. I've tried the procedure with the car on jack stands and turning the wheels to help the syncros mesh up.

Any other ideas? I'm kind of stumped.
 

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Check the Wires for the Netural Switch.. are they On?.. is it possable you got the Netural and Reverse Switch wires Cross Connected?.. As I think the Plugs are the Same in that area..

EDIT: Here is a Pic..


Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
All three of those plugs are within 4" of each other on top of the transmission. The neutral switch has a "tab" in the middle of the plug, so it can only plug into the neutral switch socket. The other two are the same, with an offset tab, so they can be mistaken for one another.



I'll double check to make sure the wires are intact, but they're all in their respective homes.

If I'm not mistaken though, the neutral switch has to be working for the car to start, no?

edit: looks like I forgot to mention in my original post: When I started the car, immediately after reassembling it, the transmission did indeed show the solid "N" light. Trying to shift it resulted in the flashing "N" error light.
 

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You verified it was in neutral by manually putting it in? And it's white grey black on the plugs when your looking at it from the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You verified it was in neutral by manually putting it in? And it's white grey black on the plugs when your looking at it from the back.
Yup, via the end of the shaft that sticks out the front side of the engine.

Have you (or anyone else who may be reading this) ever done the parts exchange relearn through techstream? I'm curious as to what it is supposed to do as far as moving parts.
 

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Yup, via the end of the shaft that sticks out the front side of the engine.

Have you (or anyone else who may be reading this) ever done the parts exchange relearn through techstream? I'm curious as to what it is supposed to do as far as moving parts.
Nope, that's more of Cap's area. I've only done blind resets and you have to wait for it to settle in to neutral after it does all it's moving (clicks through numbers on the display while it's moving stuff), and then take it to around 4k rpm in first.
 

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Yup, via the end of the shaft that sticks out the front side of the engine.

Have you (or anyone else who may be reading this) ever done the parts exchange relearn through techstream? I'm curious as to what it is supposed to do as far as moving parts.
I've done it and it is as you describe. Turning ignition off and on a couple of times and following what the software tells you to do and the interesting part is when the 60 sec bar shows. At about 40 sec the gears start to engage 1, 2 ,3, 4, 5, R and N showing this in the dash. Also 6 if you have a 6 speed transmission. The gearbox and clutch really shifts all the gears. At the end the N should lit up steady. If it doesn't it says that you should turn off ignition and then start the car and wait for 10 sec for the N to lit up. When the N is lit one should drive between the speed limits that is shown, don't remember exactly in what range. When the N flashes one time the relearn is suppose to be done.

The N must be lit before starting parts exchange, otherwise nothing happens at the 60 sec progress bar. The techstream software seems to allow the part exchange even if N isn't lit but nothing happens.

And I feel sorry for another one with gremlins in the SMT! It sucks! :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've done it and it is as you describe. Turning ignition off and on a couple of times but the interesting part is when the 60 sec bar shows. At about 40 sec the gears start to engage 1, 2 ,3, 4, 5, R and N showing this in the dash. Also 6 if you have a 6 speed transmission. The gearbox and clutch really shifts all the gears. At the end the N should lit up steady. If it doesn't it says that you should turn off ignition and then start the car and wait for 10 sec for the N to lit up. When the N is lit one should drive between the speed limits that is shown, don't remember exactly in what range. When the N flashes one time the relearn is suppose to be done.

The N must be lit otherwise nothing happens at the 60 sec progress bar.
Okay. That's great information to have. Thank you.

Mine is definitely not engaging the gears, just moving the clutch with the parts exchange relearn.

I wonder if the fact that it's continually pumping the clutch means that it is trying to do the 1->5->N gear sequence and since it can't find it, it just keeps trying.

Seems weird it does it with the ignition off and the key out.
 

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Okay. That's great information to have. Thank you.

Mine is definitely not engaging the gears, just moving the clutch with the parts exchange relearn.

I wonder if the fact that it's continually pumping the clutch means that it is trying to do the 1->5->N gear sequence and since it can't find it, it just keeps trying.

Seems weird it does it with the ignition off and the key out.
I think the system never get tired. It tries and tries and tries. The same way when everything is working in the car and some gremlin says one morning: no, no not this time but the system tries again and again a couple of times and finally the gear is engaged. I really think that there are living things in the system that likes to play and makes us mad! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I can get the "N" light on by using the active test function to move the shift stroke solenoid, although I don't think it's actually moving anything any more.

Tonight, I'll check all the connectors that connect the GSA to anything else and hopefully I'll find that I'm forgetful and missed something. It's got to be something simple, since it was all working before I pulled it apart.
 

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It's got to be something simple, since it was all working before I pulled it apart.
Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. That what I was Saying... as my Dad was beating me, when I could not get his Holly Four Barrel back Together.. I was Only 5 at the Time.. :)..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. That what I was Saying... as my Dad was beating me, when I could not get his Holly Four Barrel back Together.. I was Only 5 at the Time.. :)..

Cap
It's also the story of my life. Sometimes when I get bored at work I make attempts to "improve" my office supplies, which is usually followed by ordering replacement office supplies.
 

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I hope you put the fork and throw out bearing back in place correctly. Make sure you have the connectors on the other side of the GSA connected and in the correct order. Double check and make sure the select and stroke sensors and the input sensor are fully connected. Make sure the prism shaped piece is on the right side of the fork and is actually working the fork while it's doing the movement. If for any reason you pulled the position sensors make sure you put the spacers back in.

I would jack it up and try spinning the wheels to make sure the fork is engaging and disengaging. If it stays either locked up or spinning the spring could not be hitting bearing and could be loose inside there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I hope you put the fork and throw out bearing back in place correctly. Make sure you have the connectors on the other side of the GSA connected and in the correct order. Double check and make sure the select and stroke sensors and the input sensor are fully connected. Make sure the prism shaped piece is on the right side of the fork and is actually working the fork while it's doing the movement. If for any reason you pulled the position sensors make sure you put the spacers back in.

I would jack it up and try spinning the wheels to make sure the fork is engaging and disengaging. If it stays either locked up or spinning the spring could not be hitting bearing and could be loose inside there.
The clutch half is doing just fine. I can see it moving underneath the car. I can move it using techstream. The gear shift mechanisms don't seem to be working at all. When spinning the wheels, it never locks, because the car never gets into gear.

I also never removed the fork- it stayed connected at one end and I just slipped the TO bearing off and on.

Planning on checking all my plugs tonight.
 

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It's got to be something simple, since it was all working before I pulled it apart.
The same problem you have I got after topping up the fluid in the reservoir tank and just for doing it disconnected/connected one of the connections to one of the sensors on the gear box (not the black neutral sensor, one of the others). The car worked just perfectly before besides the clutch slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I checked all my connections and wiring to make sure it's all correct and making contact. It is. Still no Diagnostic Codes. As it's "relearning," it's pumping the clutch using the furthest pressure line to the right (closest to the engine.) It's not even trying to put pressure into the other two lines, which I assume are the two for the shifter. Thoughts?
 

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I wonder if this type of action is a bug in the Techstream software.

Try this.. Create a new Error for it to work on.. Disconect the Clutch Position Sensor wires.. this should throw a Position Sensor problem.. and then Let Techstream do what ever it needs to ..

Then hook the Sensor back up and see if it acts any differently..

Acts like Techstream is stuck in a loop..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I wonder if this type of action is a bug in the Techstream software.

Try this.. Create a new Error for it to work on.. Disconect the Clutch Position Sensor wires.. this should throw a Position Sensor problem.. and then Let Techstream do what ever it needs to ..

Then hook the Sensor back up and see if it acts any differently..

Acts like Techstream is stuck in a loop..

Cap
I'll give it a shot.

Also, if anyone has the instructions to try a hard reset of the SMT computer, let me know. Maybe circumventing techstream might help.
 

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I could toss you a Different TCU, and if you plug it in, Techstream might act differently..

Cap
 
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