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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

Been haveing squeaking from my drivers rear wheel intermittently so i replaced the rotor, thinking a small gouge in it was the culprit. Bedded in the new rotor, everything was great.

Today, I drove to work and realized my parking brake for the drivers side was/is frozen. Short drive and was running late (snow) so decided to drive on it.

Im gonna replace the cable this week but it this rotor and pad trash?

75440

Notice the nice char.
 

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I don't see anything wrong from the picture. The big problem from a dragging brake is warpage. You can heat your rotor red hot in a minute.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah... that rotor looks fine. Is it pulsing when you press lightly on the brakes?
No its not pulsing but making a constant shrill scraping noise. Pretty sure the pad is glazed. I think i remember reading something about composition changes in rotors, even when straight if overheated. Ill link the white paper later
 

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Maybe take some sandpaper to the pad (with a flat surface) and maybe have the rotor cut if you're worried about it too. Re-bed it and see what you get?
 

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Excellent write up! I have had "warped" discs before and replaced them. I am not sure this writeup gives me any reason not to do the same in the future, but it does give me a clear description of what really happened.

I am a bit shocked that going through puddles with hot brakes wouldn't warp them, however, I am not sure when non-track driving the brakes on my car have ever been that hot.

I also like the "get better brake fluid" paragraph. I took my MR2 to the track with racing fluid (I changed it out just before I went) and stock pads and the braking never faded. That is with 3 or 4 "ABS" slowdowns a lap. The instructor would say "don't put the ebrake on" in the pits and I did what he said but didn't believe him. I get it now. (slow to listen and learn).

Also, loved the story of the Mustangs and wives. I understand better why stock pads in most cars fade. I'm also fascinated that our MR2s were designed with great, non-fading brakepads from the factory (if you get the REAL MR2 pads). That is probably because it is so light weight and overbraked (Corolla calipers).

Best read in a long time. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just wanted to give an update, abrading the pad against concrete and a very aggressive rebedding procedure has eliminated the shrill scraping sound when braking, rotor looks fine. Time will tell if pulsing develops.
 

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Today, I drove to work and realized my parking brake for the drivers side was/is frozen. Short drive and was running late (snow) so decided to drive on it.

Im gonna replace the cable this week ...
Getting back to your parking brake cable - I would highly recommend you get both cables and replace them both at the same time. If one has gotten moisture in it, the other one probably does too and they're a real pain to replace. You have to drop the fuel tank to access the bolts that hold them in place.

I replaced the ones in my 2005 and the hardest part was lowering and then reinstalling the fuel tank. You don't have to take it all the way out - just drop it enough to get above it with your tools. (I used several extensions so I could rotate the ratchet from the other side.) You'll have to monkey around with the coolant and refrigerant lines and brackets to move the fuel tank, but you don't have to disconnect them. They will flex enough to lower the fuel tank sufficiently. Just be prepared to be very patient.

There are a couple of good videos on YouTube, but most of them show the old cables being cut and the new ones being tossed over the fuel tank and laying loose - a short cut to avoid actually accessing the two bolts on each cable above the tank. Doing it the right way is harder, but it's doable if you have the patience. (Do you have the BGB?)

As a precaution to avoid having to do it again, I treated the rubber boots on the new cables with a preservative every time I changed the oil to help keep them from drying out and cracking.
 
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