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Question: Can I still do the swap if I have a SMT?

Answer: Yes, you can. Some additional wiring changes need to be made in order to make it work but we can help you with those changes as well you will need to switch the car over to a manual. The use of the SMT transmission will not work. The parts to make this switch are readily available.
Allow me to rephrase that answer:
"Yes you can. I have no idea how because I've never done it myself so if you just keep throwing money and parts at it that's a start unless of course you want to ship/drive the car to Chicago in which case i will wave my magic wand at it and "presto chango", problem solved!"
Let me just say I'm glad that I have the knowledge and ability to work my way through these issues because as is, if I were a kid trying to get his car running I'd be SOOL.

OP:My issues were/are: Fuel pump not coming on. Solved by installing Bosch relay: double hot from battery grounded to e1 of Honda ECM(fuel pump ground unchanged: relay supplies 12v when gounded by ECM E1). Parasitic drain on the battery: allegedly caused by efi relay being active while key is off.(not solved thus far). Wiring information for 2003 SMT chassis inconveniently unavailable (online) for re/wiring DLC for obd2 althought referring to a 2000 manual wiring diagram there is in fact no green/red wire present on the obd2 DLC pin DLC14.
Almost forgot: Merry Christmas everyone.
 

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The changes specific to removing the SMT:
1. Ground the starter relay.
2. Wire in the clutch safety switch.
3. Splice in an appropriate connector for the manual TB. I assume that this one is moot in the case of an alien engine swap.
 

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The changes specific to removing the SMT:
1. Ground the starter relay.
2. Wire in the clutch safety switch.
3. Splice in an appropriate connector for the manual TB. I assume that this one is moot in the case of an alien engine swap.
I forgot to mention the clutch safety y/blk wire grounding. My bad. But still no inf on 2003 SMT specific wiring.
 

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obd2/DLC green/red wire

That is it. All the rest of the SMT specific wiring is just abandoned. Tie up the connectors so they don't get into anything.
there is in fact no green/red wire present on the obd2 DLC pin DLC14.
K20a2 changes a few things including OBD2

Found this :
I had a blinking ABS light after installing an Ultragauge. I found the solution on the Tacoma forum.
The pin to disconnect is number 14.
Pin layout as below:

 

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now trying to wire the data link connector (2003 SMT chassis). tried per instructions from memeber here to move dlc 14 to dlc 12 (first step). Instructions said to cut at 14 and connect at 12 but since there was no terminal or wire in position 12 i re-pinned 14 to 12. The wire is green/red but I don't have a way of knowing where it goes to in the chassis. The only reference I can find is 2000 manual car which shows no green/red wire on the dlc. Anybody?
The pin 12 and 14 instructions are just for the immobilizer
 

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The pin 12 and 14 instructions are just for the immobilizer
I just want to say thanks for your help. Seems that one of the problems with the inf. you sent me was the fuzziness of page three paired with the fact that my ADD (lol) kept me from reading some of it until yesterday at which time my ADD friend pointed out that "that's a 3 not a 1 for the logic ground". So besides being distracted with a wire I didn't have to be concerned about I also had a problem narrowing down what exactly I needed to be concerned about as far as wiring.

P.S. The obd worked without any wiring modification. The wiring is not correct in that the ground is not connected where it's supposed to be but it works as is. The only thing wiring wise i haven't dealt with is the battery drain.
 

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OP:My issues were/are: Fuel pump not coming on. Solved by installing Bosch relay: double hot from battery grounded to e1 of Honda ECM(fuel pump ground unchanged: relay supplies 12v when gounded by ECM E1). Parasitic drain on the battery: allegedly caused by efi relay being active while key is off.
Parasitic drain on the battery:Solved in my case by completely removing the COPN relay since I wired in another relay for the fuel pump. (opposite the large relay pass. side firewall relay box):02.47-tranquillity:
 

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C101 Connections to Body

I feel like I have ready this entire thread multiple times and seem to be missing a few pieces of key information.

Has anyone done a wiring diagram of the C101 grey connector to the Spyder stock body harness
I.e Which pins from C101 -> harness pins?

seems like everyone's is a bit different and anyone that did post anything all the pictures are dead.
Thanks!
 

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Anyone know if there is a downside to using a k20 (EP3 Type R) instead of k20a2? From what I'm seeing, the price is looking fairly close once I factor in local pickup for the k20 vs shipping for k20a2.


Thanks,

Brian
 

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Anyone know if there is a downside to using a k20 (EP3 Type R) instead of k20a2? From what I'm seeing, the price is looking fairly close once I factor in local pickup for the k20 vs shipping for k20a2.


Thanks,

Brian
I think the harness needed to be switched and some sensors. I do not recall the exact ones but the harness and sensors have to mimic the RSX. The ECU will work with Hondata, so just figure in the cost of the harness and potential sensors.
 

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Damn, I have been out of the game for a while and havent even touched my car in a while. I hope to finish it up again in the spring but I gotta freshen up on what I had going on lol.
 

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The k24 block is cheap but to make it a true performance engine with power it still needs the expensive k20 head. The TSX or type S trans are also more expensive if you want the LSD etc.

All I really know is innovative has the linkage made now, like Ikrana said the linkage comes from the other side so needs to be flipped and reversed.
I'm new to this whole K-swap idea, but am really considering it, however, is around 4k high for a type-r k20 with LSD?
 

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I'm new to this whole K-swap idea, but am really considering it, however, is around 4k high for a type-r k20 with LSD?
You don't need a type r. The k24A2(TSX) or k20a2(type s) and 02-05 rsx type s trans w/without lsd work just fine. I have a k20a2 bottom with 06-11 head and intake if anyone is looking. 65k
 

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You don't need a type r. The k24A2(TSX) or k20a2(type s) and 02-05 rsx type s trans w/without lsd work just fine. I have a k20a2 bottom with 06-11 head and intake if anyone is looking. 65k

I'm definitely interested, do you have a build list, pics, maybe even dyno #s? Also, where are you located? I'm in the Savannah area. P.m. me your info if you are not too far away.
 

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it's just a stock k20a2 with a newer head swapped on. I assume it's stock but with honda's stock goes a long way especially with the k20a2 and the 08ish tsx engine.
 

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Anyone here done the K24 bottom end with the K20A2 cylinder head and oil pump?
Weighing options on getting the K20A2 head or sending the K24's out for head work from K Mod.
I have been told it drops the compression ratio in the process which given my turbo goal it wouldn't hurt.
 

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Anyone here done the K24 bottom end with the K20A2 cylinder head and oil pump?
Weighing options on getting the K20A2 head or sending the K24's out for head work from K Mod.
I have been told it drops the compression ratio in the process which given my turbo goal it wouldn't hurt.
What are your power goals? I would just have the k24 head ported; 10.5:1 compression and turbo is a beautiful thing.
 
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