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Oil starved my 1ZZ at a track day last year, so I'm beginning the swap. Bought a junkyard '08 TSX K24 which will be mated to a RSX-S trans. I've ordered almost everything except for axles and the kpro (and a bunch of bolts...), so time to begin. Hoping to make it to a track day or two by the end of the season, but I guess it depends on how the swap goes.
 
Bought a junkyard '08 TSX K24 which will be mated to a RSX-S trans. I've ordered almost everything except for axles and the kpro (and a bunch of bolts...), so time to begin. Hoping to make it to a track day or two by the end of the season, but I guess it depends on how the swap goes.
What parts are you using, and what are your plans for the axles?
 
Most of the typical things based off the thread. Innovative mounts (they are available, but the lead time is around a month), MAP AC/harness kit, PPE header, though I'll have a friend do the rest of the exhaust. Probably will order the insane shafts axles unless there's a better recommendation I've missed. ECU will be kpro of course, from a Base MT RSX (finding a type s ECU is difficult...). Don't plan to rebuild the engine, main objective currently is to get it running. Did do the timing chain & oil pump/Moroso baffled pan though. Will do an oil cooler, (not purchased yet) & I have thought about doing an oil accumulator, but I think I'll skip that for now.

First time doing a swap, so lots of learning going on, fortunately I have quite a bit of support.
 
Most of the typical things based off the thread. Innovative mounts (they are available, but the lead time is around a month), MAP AC/harness kit, PPE header, though I'll have a friend do the rest of the exhaust. Probably will order the insane shafts axles unless there's a better recommendation I've missed. ECU will be kpro of course, from a Base MT RSX (finding a type s ECU is difficult...). Don't plan to rebuild the engine, main objective currently is to get it running. Did do the timing chain & oil pump/Moroso baffled pan though. Will do an oil cooler, (not purchased yet) & I have thought about doing an oil accumulator, but I think I'll skip that for now.

First time doing a swap, so lots of learning going on, fortunately I have quite a bit of support.
FB has many Type S ecu's, the going rate is around $300. Second the Innovative mounts are in stock, but we are developing our own mounts that are in my opinion improved over the innovative mounts and will re-use the OE toyota mounts to add additional support and prevent the twisting of the subframe. So, if you need Innovative stuff we have it in stock. I have 5 sets and 3 just sold. If you want our set, we will be releasing them in Feb. I am producing my own set of axles but I do not have a ETA yet because I am working with maybe companies right now to find out which solution is best.

Lastly have you seen the DIY install guide?
 
FB has many Type S ecu's, the going rate is around $300. Second the Innovative mounts are in stock, but we are developing our own mounts that are in my opinion improved over the innovative mounts and will re-use the OE toyota mounts to add additional support and prevent the twisting of the subframe. So, if you need Innovative stuff we have it in stock. I have 5 sets and 3 just sold. If you want our set, we will be releasing them in Feb. I am producing my own set of axles but I do not have a ETA yet because I am working with maybe companies right now to find out which solution is best.

Lastly have you seen the DIY install guide?
I wasn't able to find anything local for the ECUs, though that's about what Ebay is running as well. The base MT ECUs are about half that though. According to the Hondata site the only thing I lose is reverse lockout, which I can live without. If I hadn't already ordered the mounts I'd just wait for your solution (I've seen reports of the rear mount failing...). Would I be able to purchase & install the additional support separately? Depending on where/how it mounts I imagine it may help mitigate any issues with the Innovative mount.

I did see the DIY guide and will be using it as much as possible. It's part of what made me decide to go this route instead of a 2ZZ or just getting another corolla engine.
 
I wasn't able to find anything local for the ECUs, though that's about what Ebay is running as well. The base MT ECUs are about half that though. According to the Hondata site the only thing I lose is reverse lockout, which I can live without. If I hadn't already ordered the mounts I'd just wait for your solution (I've seen reports of the rear mount failing...). Would I be able to purchase & install the additional support separately? Depending on where/how it mounts I imagine it may help mitigate any issues with the Innovative mount.

I did see the DIY guide and will be using it as much as possible. It's part of what made me decide to go this route instead of a 2ZZ or just getting another corolla engine.
Unfortunately the only other mount you can buy seperate is the front mount. Fyi you can use a automatic ecu from a Acura the going rate is $40-60
 
Hi guys,
I hope you're all well.

I hope someone would be able to help me. I have just completed my k swap using a universal k swap harness. It's all gone well however I now have the alternator light and brake light on which I am aware is down to the multiplex system and me using my hondata ecu.

I wondered if anyone could tell me how I can disable the alternator light and brake light please? Thank you very much!
 
Just finished my K20 swap and tuned Hondata. The car pulls really hard and is a joy to drive! Lot more torque and power compared to the 2ZZ that was in the car before...

Only pending issue to solve is the brake light that stays on. Handbrake cable is in and the break fluid is at max level. Any other idea to check why this is happening?
 
Just finished my K20 swap and tuned Hondata. The car pulls really hard and is a joy to drive! Lot more torque and power compared to the 2ZZ that was in the car before...

Only pending issue to solve is the brake light that stays on. Handbrake cable is in and the break fluid is at max level. Any other idea to check why this is happening?
I had the same issue last week. Its because you're not connected to the standard ecu or its detecting something isn't connected.

Only cheap way around it and what I did was to DIY a brake light switch into the dash and use the handbrake switch to earth thst. Worked perfectly
 
I had the same issue last week. Its because you're not connected to the standard ecu or its detecting something isn't connected.

Only cheap way around it and what I did was to DIY a brake light switch into the dash and use the handbrake switch to earth thst. Worked perfectly
But why other people with K20 swaps don't get this problem?
 
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