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Anyone received the MAP swap mounts? Doing a serious TT/track build and want to know if these are the way, or if I should build my own. Specifically the rear mount which is a known issue on the Innovative unit.
 

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I'm looking for some advice on axles. Currently debating between the 5.9 axles from Mitch's or the 1000hp axles from MWR. I asked MWR about warranty and they only cover them for 30 days. If the axles from Mitch's fall under the standard DSS warranty program, they would have a 12 month warranty. Both come with upgraded hubs. Just looking for feedback from anyone who has used either set.
 

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Anyone try the combination of the OEM passenger-side mount with the Innovative 75 durometer mount on the driver's side?

Dave
 

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I'm looking for some advice on axles. Currently debating between the 5.9 axles from Mitch's or the 1000hp axles from MWR. I asked MWR about warranty and they only cover them for 30 days. If the axles from Mitch's fall under the standard DSS warranty program, they would have a 12 month warranty. Both come with upgraded hubs. Just looking for feedback from anyone who has used either set.

I was in communication with DSS when my DSS swap axles took a shit, after asking for pics of the axles with which i amply supplied and ask if they wanted any more angles/closer shots, they ghosted me on said communication. My email didn't ask about warranty, free hand out or anything in that direction. I actually was asking if they could maybe repair or replace/rebuilt said axles because only one side was bad. I wanted to pay them for help with their product.

Let this give everyone a glimpse of how they do business.

Bought a pair of insane Shaft axles a week later.
 

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I was in communication with DSS when my DSS swap axles took a shit, after asking for pics of the axles with which i amply supplied and ask if they wanted any more angles/closer shots, they ghosted me on said communication. My email didn't ask about warranty, free hand out or anything in that direction. I actually was asking if they could maybe repair or replace/rebuilt said axles because only one side was bad. I wanted to pay them for help with their product.

Let this give everyone a glimpse of how they do business.

Bought a pair of insane Shaft axles a week later.
Thank you for sharing your first hand experience. It is unfortunate to hear DSS operates in this manner. I have had good luck with them in the past, but it has been 7+ years. I am assuming you have had zero issues with the insane shafts?
 

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Thank you for sharing your first hand experience. It is unfortunate to hear DSS operates in this manner. I have had good luck with them in the past, but it has been 7+ years. I am assuming you have had zero issues with the insane shafts?
Haven't put as many miles on the Insane shafts axles so I can't say much other than they're working as they should. They installed perfectly fine. I do notice a weight different between the 2 and some hardware differences with Dss being better however I'm not sure the two are an apples to apples comparison. I also just noticed today my axles have rusted in a way that got my attention when i was remounting a new battery by my subframe. Seems like the paint or whatever rust protection was very minimal vs what i remember with Dss' axles. On the flip side, Dss axles leaked grease almost from the beginning and thru out my ownership of them.
 

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I decided to replace my coolant fill/expansion tank (also known as a hot-bottle) with an aftermarket aluminum one. I think my OEM bottle is starting to get brittle. In selecting all of the fittings to go from the tank to the hoses, I remembered that the OAT coolant used in every modern car is not really compatible with copper alloys (like Brass), so I recommend that if you are doing any cooling system modifications try to use only Aluminum or stainless fittings for anything that is wetted by the coolant.
 

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I decided to replace my coolant fill/expansion tank (also known as a hot-bottle) with an aftermarket aluminum one. I think my OEM bottle is starting to get brittle. In selecting all of the fittings to go from the tank to the hoses, I remembered that the OAT coolant used in every modern car is not really compatible with copper alloys (like Brass), so I recommend that if you are doing any cooling system modifications try to use only Aluminum or stainless fittings for anything that is wetted by the coolant.
If you got time, would you mind doing a write up of your setup? I'm interested in replacing my bottle in the future as well.
 

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All you need to know about the installation of the Allstar Performance ALL36116 tank is shown in the pictures. In the first pic you can see how I modified the mounting bracket for a single bolt attachment. IMG_20200428_151528.jpg
Utilizing existing spyder bracket for lower attachment: IMG_20200428_183702.jpg
The bottom port is 1/2 NPT to which I installed a 2" long 1/2" x 2" NPT Seamless Pipe Nipple S/40 ALUMINUM 6061-T6 <AN1040211 and a FEMALE 1/2"-14 NPT PIPE THREAD BLUE ANODIZE FINISH ALUMINUM 90� FITTING ADAPTER and finally Straight 1/2" NPT Pipe to 3/8" .375" Hose Barb Fitting Bare Aluminum. On the upper inlet I used 1/4" NPT MALE 45 DEGREE TO 3/8" HOSE BARB NIPPLE RED ALUMINUM ANODIZE ADAPTER

The hose clamps hold the tank to the bracket, but I also coated the interface with Permatex ultra-grey.

Do not use brass fittings because of compatibility issues with modern OAT or HOAT coolant. I used all Aluminum, but SS should be fine. Not sure about iron or galvanized fittings. I chose an 18 lb pressure cap; Stant 10234. another view: IMG_20200428_183720.jpg
 

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2001 MR2 K20A2 Swap Time Attack Race Car
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Anyone received the MAP swap mounts? Doing a serious TT/track build and want to know if these are the way, or if I should build my own. Specifically the rear mount which is a known issue on the Innovative unit.
I second tony_r’s question regarding current best information for mounting the engine in a track only build (full cage, no interior, etc.). My original plan was to use the Innovative parts and add the front mount to avoid/minimize subframe twisting and engine twisting. Do the new mounts from MAP use a mixed poly and OE rubber mount setup or all rubber? My original 1ZZ mounts are shot so I would need new ones either way. For reference I’m in the same boat as Berrynator, lost the 1ZZ at Road Atlanta last year (sent rod parts through the block) and have acquired a complete RSX Type S dropout to install this summer.
 

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All you need to know about the installation of the Allstar Performance ALL36116 tank is shown in the pictures. In the first pic you can see how I modified the mounting bracket for a single bolt attachment. View attachment 76099
Utilizing existing spyder bracket for lower attachment: View attachment 76100
The bottom port is 1/2 NPT to which I installed a 2" long 1/2" x 2" NPT Seamless Pipe Nipple S/40 ALUMINUM 6061-T6 <AN1040211 and a FEMALE 1/2"-14 NPT PIPE THREAD BLUE ANODIZE FINISH ALUMINUM 90� FITTING ADAPTER and finally Straight 1/2" NPT Pipe to 3/8" .375" Hose Barb Fitting Bare Aluminum. On the upper inlet I used 1/4" NPT MALE 45 DEGREE TO 3/8" HOSE BARB NIPPLE RED ALUMINUM ANODIZE ADAPTER

The hose clamps hold the tank to the bracket, but I also coated the interface with Permatex ultra-grey.

Do not use brass fittings because of compatibility issues with modern OAT or HOAT coolant. I used all Aluminum, but SS should be fine. Not sure about iron or galvanized fittings. I chose an 18 lb pressure cap; Stant 10234. another view: View attachment 76101
Filling the coolant bottle to the level of the inlet fitting seems to be working well.
Dave
 

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For reference I’m in the same boat as Berrynator, lost the 1ZZ at Road Atlanta last year (sent rod parts through the block) and have acquired a complete RSX Type S dropout to install this summer.
Ouch, I heard the bearing go before parts went through the block, so I technically could have rebuilt it if I really wanted since the only parts that needed replacing was the crank & rods.... But I've been wanting to do this swap anyways, so swap it was.

What front mount are you referencing? As far as I'm aware Innovative doesn't sell a front mount. Am I missing something? Admittedly I haven't read all 92 pages of this thread...
 

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2001 MR2 K20A2 Swap Time Attack Race Car
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What front mount are you referencing? As far as I'm aware Innovative doesn't sell a front mount. Am I missing something? Admittedly I haven't read all 92 pages of this thread...
This bracket was designed an fab’d by MAP MAP K Swap Front Mount (K24 and K20 swaps)
It uses the RSX front mount that bolts to the trans and the bracket from MAP bolts into chassis where the original 1ZZ one did.

The rod exiting the block was due to my ignorance in thinking the noise was from the driveline not the engine and then not wanting to stop the car on the side of the track to get towed. I actually made it into the pit lane after nursing the car for 3/4 of a lap around Road Atlanta before it finally let go. At that point I also was more interested in swapping to something more potent rather than replacing the 1ZZ.
 

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This bracket was designed an fab’d by MAP MAP K Swap Front Mount (K24 and K20 swaps)
It uses the RSX front mount that bolts to the trans and the bracket from MAP bolts into chassis where the original 1ZZ one did.

The rod exiting the block was due to my ignorance in thinking the noise was from the driveline not the engine and then not wanting to stop the car on the side of the track to get towed. I actually made it into the pit lane after nursing the car for 3/4 of a lap around Road Atlanta before it finally let go. At that point I also was more interested in swapping to something more potent rather than replacing the 1ZZ.
Thanks for the link, not sure how I missed it.

I depressed the clutch when it initially happened and the engine immediately died, so there was no guessing on my end. Coasted most of the way back to the pits, but ended up pulling over instead of attempting to limp it back. Session was almost done anyways, so it's not like I had to wait long for a tow.
 

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I second tony_r’s question regarding current best information for mounting the engine in a track only build (full cage, no interior, etc.). My original plan was to use the Innovative parts and add the front mount to avoid/minimize subframe twisting and engine twisting. Do the new mounts from MAP use a mixed poly and OE rubber mount setup or all rubber? My original 1ZZ mounts are shot so I would need new ones either way. For reference I’m in the same boat as Berrynator, lost the 1ZZ at Road Atlanta last year (sent rod parts through the block) and have acquired a complete RSX Type S dropout to install this summer.
I did order these but the mounts are stuck in customs at the moment, so nobody has received anything to comment.
 

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Anyone try the combination of the OEM passenger-side mount with the Innovative 75 durometer mount on the driver's side?

Dave
I just did this and can report that Innovate 75 duro on the driver's side with the OEM mount on the pass side is a significant improvement in noise and vibration. You do need a couple of washers under the "bridge" to keep that side of the engine to its previous position. I am using MAP front mount and looking forward to replacing the Innovative rear mount with the new one from Mitch's.

Dave
 

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2001 MR2 K20A2 Swap Time Attack Race Car
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I just did this and can report that Innovate 75 duro on the driver's side with the OEM mount on the pass side is a significant improvement in noise and vibration. You do need a couple of washers under the "bridge" to keep that side of the engine to its previous position. I am using MAP front mount and looking forward to replacing the Innovative rear mount with the new one from Mitch's.

Dave
So Dave, do you have the 75A durometer poly mounts in the front and rear as well or are you using an OEM RSX front mount with the MAP bracket? Did you notice any change in responsiveness or “load shift” from the power train as a result of using the OE rubber passenger side mount?
 
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