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So Dave, do you have the 75A durometer poly mounts in the front and rear as well or are you using an OEM RSX front mount with the MAP bracket? Did you notice any change in responsiveness or “load shift” from the power train as a result of using the OE rubber passenger side mount?
I am using the OEM RSX front mount. I haven't noticed any downsides in vehicle dynamics yet, but I haven't taken it on-track yet. Just some spirited driving. It is clear that the stiff pass-side mount transmits more vibration to the body than the driver's side due to the distance from the center of the engine (the source of vibration, second-order couple) and due to the very large difference in mount stiffness on the pass-side. I am guessing that the driver's side Innovative mount is a bit more compliant (relatively) than the pass-side one. When the MAP new-style of rear mount is available, I will try it with the OEM rubber.

Dave
 

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Thank you,

Iam using the RSP head that comes of the k20z4 fn2 motor. The water port on the idle assist forms part of the intake. I have seen guys just tapping the hole and use a fitting to sort out the water port or just purchase the ktuned k24 manifold adapter. I think iam going to go this route.
I eventually went with the skunk ultra race intake and ktuned 80mm tb.
Thanks for the advice.
This thread really helped my swap go smoothly. Just need t sort out my ac still.
 

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For those that have completed the swap, what did you do about the battery? Rear crossmember relocation? the innovative mount doesn't have provisions for one of the bolts. I really would like to avoid putting it in the frunk for now...

Also, for anyone running the K24, how did you run the fuel line? Between the throttle body & engine? It's the least likely location to have things pinching, but I'm still worried about the intake hitting it, there's only about a finger's width between it and the intake when I use a 90deg AN fitting... straight on isn't an option as the intake is in the way.
 

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For those that have completed the swap, what did you do about the battery? Rear crossmember relocation? the innovative mount doesn't have provisions for one of the bolts. I really would like to avoid putting it in the frunk for now...

Also, for anyone running the K24, how did you run the fuel line? Between the throttle body & engine? It's the least likely location to have things pinching, but I'm still worried about the intake hitting it, there's only about a finger's width between it and the intake when I use a 90deg AN fitting... straight on isn't an option as the intake is in the way.
Iam currently using the oem bracket but i will moving the battery slightly back and lower.

I used the stock rail and just purchased the fuel line from mitch. I have a skunk ultra race intake and i just had to make up the spacers for the stock rail with new bolts. I will try and send a pick of it. In a bit.
 

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For those that have completed the swap, what did you do about the battery? Rear crossmember relocation? the innovative mount doesn't have provisions for one of the bolts. I really would like to avoid putting it in the frunk for now...

Also, for anyone running the K24, how did you run the fuel line? Between the throttle body & engine? It's the least likely location to have things pinching, but I'm still worried about the intake hitting it, there's only about a finger's width between it and the intake when I use a 90deg AN fitting... straight on isn't an option as the intake is in the way.
Pictures attached i do not know if this helps you in anyway. I would personally run it this way regardless of the intake.

IMG_20200525_142743.jpg IMG_20200525_142501.jpg
 

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For those that have completed the swap, what did you do about the battery? Rear crossmember relocation? the innovative mount doesn't have provisions for one of the bolts. I really would like to avoid putting it in the frunk for now...

Also, for anyone running the K24, how did you run the fuel line? Between the throttle body & engine? It's the least likely location to have things pinching, but I'm still worried about the intake hitting it, there's only about a finger's width between it and the intake when I use a 90deg AN fitting... straight on isn't an option as the intake is in the way.
I have posted this before, but mine is a 3 lb Lithium-ion on a new bracket in front of the pass-side brake light.
 

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All you need to know about the installation of the Allstar Performance ALL36116 tank is shown in the pictures. In the first pic you can see how I modified the mounting bracket for a single bolt attachment. View attachment 76099
Utilizing existing spyder bracket for lower attachment: View attachment 76100
The bottom port is 1/2 NPT to which I installed a 2" long 1/2" x 2" NPT Seamless Pipe Nipple S/40 ALUMINUM 6061-T6 <AN1040211 and a FEMALE 1/2"-14 NPT PIPE THREAD BLUE ANODIZE FINISH ALUMINUM 90� FITTING ADAPTER and finally Straight 1/2" NPT Pipe to 3/8" .375" Hose Barb Fitting Bare Aluminum. On the upper inlet I used 1/4" NPT MALE 45 DEGREE TO 3/8" HOSE BARB NIPPLE RED ALUMINUM ANODIZE ADAPTER

The hose clamps hold the tank to the bracket, but I also coated the interface with Permatex ultra-grey.

Do not use brass fittings because of compatibility issues with modern OAT or HOAT coolant. I used all Aluminum, but SS should be fine. Not sure about iron or galvanized fittings. I chose an 18 lb pressure cap; Stant 10234. another view: View attachment 76101
Update: this seems to be working well so far (with the coolant level set to be about even with the inlet) , but I recently read an article on sizing Aluminum catch tanks (from Canton) that suggests that the volume of the tank should probably be at least twice this size. That is curious, because the volume of the OEM tank is less than 1 liter. I cut my old tank in half to understand the principle behind the inner chambers.
76573

The basic idea is that each one of the chambers are connected with a passage at the bottom and a smaller one at the top. The coolant has to flow through at least the first chamber to get to the exit chamber, but all of the other chambers are connected in parallel at the top and bottom. So each chamber is a gas separation chamber. It seems that multiple small separation chambers work better than one large one, though you still need a certain amount of volume to account for thermal expansion and what Canton calls drawdown. The OEM tank has worked just fine on my K20 even on-track. I haven't taken the new small tank on-track yet, but I think, to be safe; I should either switch to a larger aluminum tank or add a second tank in parallel with this one to emulate the idea behind the OEM. I am going to try the latter and will post pics in a week or so.

Dave
 

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I've always wanted to see the inside of the coolant tank but didn't want to ruin one . Thanks for posting that . I knew it was chambered but didn't expect that .
 

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Pictures attached i do not know if this helps you in anyway. I would personally run it this way regardless of the intake.

View attachment 76563 View attachment 76564
Thanks, the issue is actually on the Toyota fitting side, not the Honda fuel rail. The stock K24 intake sits too low and rubs against the line from Mitch. I'm pretty sure a second 90deg fitting will do the trick, so I'm just going to buy a 90 degree fitting from Summit and modify the line. I may be paranoid, but fuel line is the last thing I want rubbing on stuff...

I have posted this before, but mine is a 3 lb Lithium-ion on a new bracket in front of the pass-side brake light.
I've thought about that, but I've seen enough stories about lithium batteries spontaneously becoming heat sources to be hesitant about using one... We used a Braille battery on the formula car in college without issues (most teams do...), but there's a bit extra work required to maintain those than a standard battery. For now I think I'm going to give the rear crossmember a go... It frees up space nicely for an intake, though heat from the exhaust is an ever present concern.
 

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For those who still used the EVAP system, in addition to the purge valve on the intake, did you just use the Honda (or Toyota?) VSV and plumb it into the intake pipe? Did you do anything else to the Toyota system, or just leave it as is?
 

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For those who still used the EVAP system, in addition to the purge valve on the intake, did you just use the Honda (or Toyota?) VSV and plumb it into the intake pipe? Did you do anything else to the Toyota system, or just leave it as is?
The Hondata ECU has no problems controlling the Toyota EVAP valves. For the one that goes on the intake pipe, you can use either.

Dave
 

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Awesome, thanks. Looks like I'll be running wiring for those two valves in the next few days. Was going to check that myself, but allergies have kept me out of the garage the last few days...

For future reference for anyone looking, E21 is the VSV, E20 is the EVAP bypass valve on the canister. These two (& the PCS) should be hooked up to a switched power source as the ECU is a low side driver. I don't have a harness schematic in front of me, but I plan to use the same pin that drives the PCS to drive the other two valves. I'll edit this comment once I actually find that pin....
 

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Ok dumb question time. Is this axle all the way in? I feel like it should go a bit further? Last thing I want to do is have to buy a new axle because I didn't fully install it...

EDIT: Ran the engine for the first time today. Got two codes I wasn't expecting. P0431 (VTC phase gap) and P1298 (ELD Circuit High Voltage). I'm pretty sure the VTC issue is down to the VTC gear or solenoid since the timing marks look to line up on the chain side (or are very close), but the camshaft alignment mark on the intake side doesn't line up.

I assume everyone just disabled ELD through kpro?

20200613_152922.jpg
 

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Engine now runs. VTC issue was something stupid we won't talk about.... Do have some issues to work out though. Once I tightened everything down the AC pulley (MR2 AC mounted with the MAP bracket) is right up against the chassis. Even at idle it was rubbing away at the frame..... Anyone experience this issue? Also had a humming sound, not sure if it was the AC pulley rubbing on the frame or something else

Do have some other minor issues I need to track down, Speedometer doesn't seem to be working, probably just something not plugged in. Heater also doesn't heat, though I'm sure that's just air still in the system.
 

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Ok dumb question time. Is this axle all the way in? I feel like it should go a bit further? Last thing I want to do is have to buy a new axle because I didn't fully install it...

EDIT: Ran the engine for the first time today. Got two codes I wasn't expecting. P0431 (VTC phase gap) and P1298 (ELD Circuit High Voltage). I'm pretty sure the VTC issue is down to the VTC gear or solenoid since the timing marks look to line up on the chain side (or are very close), but the camshaft alignment mark on the intake side doesn't line up.

I assume everyone just disabled ELD through kpro?

View attachment 76793
That does not look correct to me. what axle are you using? I have the Insane set.
 

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Engine now runs. VTC issue was something stupid we won't talk about.... Do have some issues to work out though. Once I tightened everything down the AC pulley (MR2 AC mounted with the MAP bracket) is right up against the chassis. Even at idle it was rubbing away at the frame..... Anyone experience this issue? Also had a humming sound, not sure if it was the AC pulley rubbing on the frame or something else

Do have some other minor issues I need to track down, Speedometer doesn't seem to be working, probably just something not plugged in. Heater also doesn't heat, though I'm sure that's just air still in the system.
If you didn't follow the factory fill and purge method, use it; it works if you give it enough time to slowly fill from back to front. You keep adding coolant to the fill tank for an hour or so until both front purge locations show coolant. Whichever starts flowing first close it, then wait for the other. If you have all the air out and still have no heater core flow, you have hooked up heater connection to the engine to the wrong spot. An easy mistake to make in KSwaps. If hooked up wrong it not only prevents the heater from working but it greatly reduces the coolant flow through the radiator because one leg of the large coolant pipe shares its flow with the heater core. Note the T connection under the car to the heater core.

Dave
 

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That does not look correct to me. what axle are you using? I have the Insane set.
Also the insane shaft.... It felt like it seated, but definitely doesn't look it. I assume it should go all the way to the point where the diameter changes?

Didn't realize there was a second bleed valve.... I'll give it another go tomorrow. I'm pretty sure I have the right heater line hooked up. Line coming out of the thermostat housing connects to car, line out of head is plugged. it was sitting on jackstands, I'll go ahead and lower the front before I go again to get the back in the air. I did notice that of the two lines going to the heater core, the line that goes to the engine was cold, but the line connecting to the coolant line in the front was hot.
 

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Also the insane shaft.... It felt like it seated, but definitely doesn't look it. I assume it should go all the way to the point where the diameter changes?

Didn't realize there was a second bleed valve.... I'll give it another go tomorrow. I'm pretty sure I have the right heater line hooked up. Line coming out of the thermostat housing connects to car, line out of head is plugged. it was sitting on jackstands, I'll go ahead and lower the front before I go again to get the back in the air. I did notice that of the two lines going to the heater core, the line that goes to the engine was cold, but the line connecting to the coolant line in the front was hot.
I strongly recommend reviewing the whole fill procedure in the shop manual. I have done this several times on multiple generations of MR2's and the factory procedure works every time. The 2 purge locations are the heater core and the upper corner (pass-side) of the radiator. You can expect the core to fill first. Procedure works just fine on a level car with the engine off.
The location where the heater core line comes off the large coolant pipe should be hot before the thermostat opens because the heater core flows whenever the pump is running. Someone else can confirm this, but I am pretty sure the heater core hose connection to the engine must be on the suction side of the pump. If you have the line coming out the stat housing (it is an inlet-stat, so that should be suction) connected to the heater core hose and aluminum pipe, that should be correct.
 

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Factory method seemed to do the trick. Coolant system is (I think) bled.

Had some issues installing the front mount, not sure if it was because I have a K24 or something else, but the mount holes didn't quite line up, off by maybe 1/4" or 1/2" to the passenger side (MAP bracket is too far to the passenger side). I slotted (more like butchered) the holes to fix that issue. I did use the Monkeywrench K24 bracket on the passenger side instead of replacing the engine bracket, so possible that did it. Also there was a 3/8" gap between the bracket and chassis once the holes lined up, nothing that an improvised spacer didn't fix. AC compressor doesn't hit the firewall now, so that's nice. Just thought I'd mention in case someone ran into issues with the bracket lining up.

Pretty sure I can drive the car tomorrow, though I may wait another day or two as I can't currently read oil pressure (waiting on a part....)
 
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