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Did you get your driver side axle seated?
Nope, That's one of the few things I need to button up tomorrow. Couldn't drive the car tonight anyways, somehow I misplaced two fuses (or they never existed...) so my headlights don't currently work.

Did idle the car for a bit and noticed the AFR is super lean (like >22:1 lean, saw as high as 32:1). I don't recall checking it in the past since I was more concerned with other stuff. Suspect there's a wiring issue. The sensor voltage decreases and eventually levels out at 0.00, so maybe something is wired backwards... I haven't detected any knock, so I kinda doubt it's actually running that lean.

Tried replying last night but it isn't showing up for some reason... lets see if this does.
 

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Nope, That's one of the few things I need to button up tomorrow. Couldn't drive the car tonight anyways, somehow I misplaced two fuses (or they never existed...) so my headlights don't currently work.

Did idle the car for a bit and noticed the AFR is super lean (like >22:1 lean, saw as high as 32:1). I don't recall checking it in the past since I was more concerned with other stuff. Suspect there's a wiring issue. The sensor voltage decreases and eventually levels out at 0.00, so maybe something is wired backwards... I haven't detected any knock, so I kinda doubt it's actually running that lean.

Tried replying last night but it isn't showing up for some reason... lets see if this does.
The pins for your primary O2 sensor are likely wired backwards in your adapter harness. Trace all four O2 wires. I would highly suggest tracing all the wiring in your adapter harness and verifying it against Hondata's schematic and the RSX service manual. I discovered a lot of wiring mistakes in mine.

Also read post #9 below. The primary O2 heater circuit must be on its own switched relay. If you power it through the pgm-fi or ign relays it will cause a residual backflow of current through the ecu and keep the pgm-fi relay latched closed with key off. If you key on and off, then disconnect the batt and hear a relay click, that is likely the pgm-fi relay which staying latched closed.
 

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Nope, That's one of the few things I need to button up tomorrow. Couldn't drive the car tonight anyways, somehow I misplaced two fuses (or they never existed...) so my headlights don't currently work.

Did idle the car for a bit and noticed the AFR is super lean (like >22:1 lean, saw as high as 32:1). I don't recall checking it in the past since I was more concerned with other stuff. Suspect there's a wiring issue. The sensor voltage decreases and eventually levels out at 0.00, so maybe something is wired backwards... I haven't detected any knock, so I kinda doubt it's actually running that lean.

Tried replying last night but it isn't showing up for some reason... lets see if this does.
idle is not a high enough load to cause knock even very lean
 

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The pins for your primary O2 sensor are likely wired backwards in your adapter harness. Trace all four O2 wires. I would highly suggest tracing all the wiring in your adapter harness and verifying it against Hondata's schematic and the RSX service manual. I discovered a lot of wiring mistakes in mine.

Also read post #9 below. The primary O2 heater circuit must be on its own switched relay. If you power it through the pgm-fi or ign relays it will cause a residual backflow of current through the ecu and keep the pgm-fi relay latched closed with key off. If you key on and off, then disconnect the batt and hear a relay click, that is likely the pgm-fi relay which staying latched closed.
yes, I spent a lot of time fixing the heater circuit on my car!
 

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The pins for your primary O2 sensor are likely wired backwards in your adapter harness. Trace all four O2 wires. I would highly suggest tracing all the wiring in your adapter harness and verifying it against Hondata's schematic and the RSX service manual. I discovered a lot of wiring mistakes in mine.

Also read post #9 below. The primary O2 heater circuit must be on its own switched relay. If you power it through the pgm-fi or ign relays it will cause a residual backflow of current through the ecu and keep the pgm-fi relay latched closed with key off. If you key on and off, then disconnect the batt and hear a relay click, that is likely the pgm-fi relay which staying latched closed.
The swap harness I received included a relay that is connected the same as the AF Sensor relay is depicted in the shop manual, so I think I'm good on that front (unless this relay is staying latched and I need another relay...). I'll double check that it doesn't stay powered in a bit.
 

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The O2 sensor wires were backwards, sensor is now working correctly. As far as I can tell the heater circuit isn't staying powered, I'll keep an eye on it though just to be sure. May just install a cutoff switch, which would make this a nonissue.
 

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You have to wire it per the Acura service manual. For an abbreviated (non-CARB) version, use Hondata's schematic.

This is an image of how the right rear TRD brace needs to be modded to fit.
I did that differently; I welded an 2" L to the end of the brace. You can also do it with a bolt.
 

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@dblotii

I thought about doing that after. The AC relay is perfect for that. But, once the car was finished and already in the process of BAR inspection, I wasn't in the mood to tear it all apart to rewire that one harness. Next one I will.
 

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Car drove briefly today, wasn't far, but it did move under it's own power, which is a massive improvement. It's been stumbling a bit on cold starts, however once it idles for a bit it's perfectly fine. It's some kind of fueling issue, engine is pretty lean for around 5s after it starts monitoring, but settles down to normal pretty quick. Wondering if it's an IACV issue, but I really don't want to mess with that given how hard it is to access. Could always be a tuning thing I guess, but it does it with both of the base tunes that are suitable for the car, and otherwise seems perfectly fine after that initial couple of seconds. Seems to run fine otherwise, definitely not quiet inside the car though. Pretty sure it's louder inside the car than outside.

On an unrelated note, passenger window no longer works for some reason. Found this out when I went to roll it up because of rain.
 
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