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My engine right now is 98k miles but it keeps throwing codes like P0300 that I havent been able to resolve and I wish I had the money to get a better engine. Is there a reason you reccomend turbokits.com over the MWR one? I noticed the turbokits.com one doesnt include Intercooler, Im not sure about Methanol injection without the IC, and with the other options it comes out to around 6k. The MWR with periferals and Power FC comes to around 7K but has intercooler, pipping, larger injectors, and a Garrett turbo.
I do not like MWR. I have seen issues with their sourced parts and a lack of customer service when things go wrong.
For something like a turbo kit you want very good CS and technical help which is what Turbokits.com provides.

The turbokits kit was sourced from the original Hass turbo that was already a great kit. I had a friend that bought the Hass kit when they were were first available and had a great experience with it. Turbokits bought the rights for the kit and improved on it but I believe their current design is a departure from it and is even better because they are have good turbo expertise having made turbo kits for several different applications. They are a well managed operation that seems to pride themselves on their kits and customer satisfaction.

Tubokits has built a good reputation and have been around a long time. They have been accredited by the BBB and have great reviews for all of their products. Not everyone will have a great experience as you are dealing with idiot customers where they may have incorrectly installed the kit but on the whole it looks like they know what they are doing with a simplified kit that was perfected over time with good fittings.
Since I do not know much about turbocharging I would rather put my faith in a proven product where I can get customer service over the phone and be on the same page with someone that knows my issues. I have a lot of hobbies and when it comes to customer service it can be frustrating when you are dealing with people that don't know the product. Because they make kits for many different vehicles they are seasoned in how to resolve issues which is a time saver.

Comparing kits is one thing but I would rather buy from a company with a focus on making turbo kits that have proven to be reliable so there is less headache.
I do not mind Methanol injection as long as it's done right. I went on their website and it seems they have several options to customize the kit.

Thankfully I am 100 percent satisfied with my 2ZZ swapped car because I am all about the handling. I feel sorry for anyone that does not feel the same way and needs a power fix to feel satisfied. It's never enough and will never be enough so it's not really about the car, it's the midset.
 
I do not like MWR. I have seen issues with their sourced parts and a lack of customer service when things go wrong.
For something like a turbo kit you want very good CS and technical help which is what Turbokits.com provides.

The turbokits kit was sourced from the original Hass turbo that was already a great kit. I had a friend that bought the Hass kit when they were were first available and had a great experience with it. Turbokits bought the rights for the kit and improved on it but I believe their current design is a departure from it and is even better because they are have good turbo expertise having made turbo kits for several different applications. They are a well managed operation that seems to pride themselves on their kits and customer satisfaction.

Tubokits has built a good reputation and have been around a long time. They have been accredited by the BBB and have great reviews for all of their products. Not everyone will have a great experience as you are dealing with idiot customers where they may have incorrectly installed the kit but on the whole it looks like they know what they are doing with a simplified kit that was perfected over time with good fittings.
Since I do not know much about turbocharging I would rather put my faith in a proven product where I can get customer service over the phone and be on the same page with someone that knows my issues. I have a lot of hobbies and when it comes to customer service it can be frustrating when you are dealing with people that don't know the product. Because they make kits for many different vehicles they are seasoned in how to resolve issues which is a time saver.

Comparing kits is one thing but I would rather buy from a company with a focus on making turbo kits that have proven to be reliable so there is less headache.
I do not mind Methanol injection as long as it's done right. I went on their website and it seems they have several options to customize the kit.

Thankfully I am 100 percent satisfied with my 2ZZ swapped car because I am all about the handling. I feel sorry for anyone that does not feel the same way and needs a power fix to feel satisfied. It's never enough and will never be enough so it's not really about the car, it's the midset.
Turbo stuff is tuning issue.
talk to tuner that will be tuning the car. he will guide you on turbo selection better than a parts wholesaler.
 
Do not build a 2zz if you are going to aim for high hp. Also building a 2zz na to 220hp is still expensive, you would need ppe exhaust, stage 3 cams, valvesprings, high comp pistons, porting, oil pump upgrade and an ecu to allow revving to 9k. It will be cool, but a 2zz is very nearly at its limit from factory. Also the price of the engine is horrible if you have to replace it.
 
Not sure why some people have an issue with the C8. Let's not kid ourselves, the C8 is better than the MR2 in pretty much every metric, but it's also at least seven times as expensive. If you want to compare the MR2 Spyder to something else mid-engine, the only reasonable choices are the first gen Boxster and the Lotus Elise. And the Elise is stretching it.
 
Not sure why some people have an issue with the C8. Let's not kid ourselves, the C8 is better than the MR2 in pretty much every metric, but it's also at least seven times as expensive. If you want to compare the MR2 Spyder to something else mid-engine, the only reasonable choices are the first gen Boxster and the Lotus Elise. And the Elise is stretching it.
Isnt the C8 like half a ton heavier? If so, it's not really better in every metric.
 
Isnt the C8 like half a ton heavier? If so, it's not really better in every metric.
I said pretty much, but the C8 chassis is more than good enough to make up for the added weight IMO. But you're right, I was thinking that the C8 weighed in the low 3000s, not >3500. Still, you'd have to pump some serious money into the MR2 to get it to outperform a C8.

All that said, I'm not trying to sway OP or anyone else. It's just best to weigh options. A K24 swap, if you're doing it yourself and get lucky with the drivetrain costs, will be about $6-7k if you buy a full swap kit from MAP. If you're super lucky and can procure the swap components from others selling theirs, you may be able to do it less than that, but I wouldn't bank on it. If you're paying a shop to do it, I'd expect it to cost $12-15k altogether at your average shop rate.

At the average cost of a MR2 Spyder being ~$7-8k-ish, that puts a K24 Spyder at being $15-20k or so to build. At that price you have a pretty solid car that's more than reliable and peppier than the stock version, but if you then want another 200-300hp on top of that, you're probably looking at another ~$3-5k. And that's just for the power. You'll kill yourself driving a Spyder that quick on the stock suspension, brakes, and tires. Figure probably at least another $5k between coilovers, better brakes, and wider tires.

So, your well set up 400-500hp K24 Spyder is about a $25k-30k car...give or take. That's a lot of money. The saving grace is that you can do it over time. But still, there are other options out there to consider for that kind of money. That's solid 987 with leftover cash or even a nice 987.x S. Hell, maybe even a higher mileage 981. Not to say that they're directly comparable to a MR2 Spyder, but they're newer, more comfortable, and still have good aftermarket options.

And I say that all as someone who is planning a K24 Spyder build, but I'm admittedly bad with money and I don't like the easy way of doing things. o_O
 
Love how every post of people wanting to make serious power in the mr-s comes back to "sell it and buy a Vette if you want performance".

Where I live a base c8 stingray starts at 90k a mr-s can be obtained for less than 10... Depends on whether it's legal in the country or not tho.
Sooo yeah...

I got asked at a meet when my friend told someone how much I make at my job
"You make that much and you drive a SRT neon? Why aren't you driving a Vette?"
To which I replied "why should I go into debt to impress you? My 500hp neon puts a smile on my face just fine"
 
There is not one single millimetre of the the A1 that needs 500bhp, unless you're driving an artic fully laden with milk.

All of the K24s have the same mounts, I believe.

If you're serious, just buy a transverse engine and crack on, by all accounts the cheapest are best if you're going for big power, as you'll replace the bits you'd pay extra for anyway.
 
I said pretty much, but the C8 chassis is more than good enough to make up for the added weight IMO. But you're right, I was thinking that the C8 weighed in the low 3000s, not >3500. Still, you'd have to pump some serious money into the MR2 to get it to outperform a C8.
True that, but those building a car for serious power has most certainly put a lot of money into suspension, or at least i hope so.
 
The main takeaway i seen from k20 vs k24 is that k20 is "safer" to rev past 7k rpm where ad k24 has more torque. Pushing k24 past 8k rpm, is it safe for repeated use with what youve done with yours?
I think 8k is the safe limit for stock bottom end and stock valve train K24. Peak power is around 6.5-7k so it doesn't feel like it needs to keep revving. K20 can do 8.5k no problem.
 
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