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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, MWR had the best price & stock on hand. Koni has really poor instructions, but after the first one, everything starts to make since. I will say that first cut is a leap of faith if you’ve never done this before.

Tools:
Spring Compressor
10MM 6pt
12MM 6pt
14MM 6pt
19MM 6pt
8MM allen socket
A good vise
Hack Saw
I used a set of digital calipers
Die Grinder w/ cut off wheels
RT angle grinder
File
Torque wrench
Thread Lock
Silver Sharpie marker
Tape, to mark your line
9/16 or 14MM Drill bit
3MM Drill bit
A good Drill
A center punch

Koni instrustions for the front struts:


I started on the front:


I compressed the springs with a spring compressor from autozone:



FYI, this bolt goes on top, it has fewer threads (on the bottom of the struts) when you're putting it back together:


I used the calipers to help me find the center of the strut


CENTER PUNCH, then drill your 3MM hole in the bottom CENTER of the strut:


I "Milked" the struts by pumping the fluid out through the 3MM hole:


I cleaned the top of the strut with brake cleaner, then I used the calipers to measure 63mm fron the top of the strut, then marked the points with a silver sharpie. I taped the line, then used the hack saw to make a very clear line. 63mm is a lot of the strut & I didn't want to mess this up. then I fired up the die grinder with the cut off wheel & started cutting:


Deburred with the grinder & file:



Ain't a lot left. This is where real concern stepped in, but I was alright:



Flipped it over & drilled the 9/16 hole. I worked my way up with two additional bits, but I guess once you've got the 3MM hole, you could go straight to the 9/16. I wanted to keep the bit sharp, so I used two more bits & cutting oil


Slid in the insert. No room on the front for the dust boot


Now, I installed the allen bolt, this bolt pulls the inserts into the strut, past these "Bumps" that must lock the insert in the strut body & torqued it to the spec with the 8MM allen head on my torque wrench.



Reinstall the spring (I use new toyota stock springs) & your done. I'll cover the rears tomorrow.
 

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Great "how to"
Library?

1 vote
 

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I agree that the first cut is a leap of faith. Once you do a strut though you realize it really isn't a hard job if you have a few basic tools.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Zauskycop @ Feb 19 2009, 09:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
That's one hell of a vise you have there![/b]
Howdy Z!! I have a slightly smaller version of that vice, and it DOES make this job a lot easier. The "pipe holder" is VERY helpful.

Magnaclese, nice how-to :icon_thumright:. Like greenstreak states, after the first cut, the rest aren't nearly as difficult...with the proper tools. By the way, I have the same basic install as yours; Koni inserts with stock springs. You'll really enjoy the difference, and the adjustability is very noticeable if you a-x. Imo, for street only use, you won't reap the true benefits of "dialing in the handling", but with additional suspension mods, crashbolts(= more -camber f&r) and "bars", the improved control is nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Set them to "Full Kill" for the short drive to work today, Holy Cow! Yes, you can tell. I've never driven anything that rode like that. Should be cool for autocross. I see myself trying full firm in the rear & 1-2 in the front to start off with. I dialed them down to 1.5 on all 4 for the ride home.

Also,

The install for the rear is the same as the front, in fact, I had to use some of the rear pictures for the post, so unless anyone really thinks they'll help (& I'm happy to help), I'm going to leave it like this.
 

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Fantastic write up. There is a sportivo kit install write up in Spyder Magazine but this goes one step further with the stock strut assembly mod.

Definitely a library candidate.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Magnaclese @ Feb 20 2009, 10:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Set them to "Full Kill" for the short drive to work today, Holy Cow! Yes, you can tell. I've never driven anything that rode like that. Should be cool for autocross. I see myself trying full firm in the rear & 1-2 in the front to start off with. I dialed them down to 1.5 on all 4 for the ride home.[/b]
Could you describe what you mean when you "say" full firm, 1-2 and 1.5. Mine "only" have 1 3/4 360* turns(630*) and I've heard they normally have 2 360* turns(720*).

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Galo @ Feb 20 2009, 01:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Magnaclese @ Feb 20 2009, 10:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Set them to "Full Kill" for the short drive to work today, Holy Cow! Yes, you can tell. I've never driven anything that rode like that. Should be cool for autocross. I see myself trying full firm in the rear & 1-2 in the front to start off with. I dialed them down to 1.5 on all 4 for the ride home.[/b]
Could you describe what you mean when you "say" full firm, 1-2 and 1.5. Mine "only" have 1 3/4 360* turns(630*) and I've heard they normally have 2 360* turns(720*).

Thanks!
[/b][/quote]

You should have 2 full turns available=720, from bottomed out on full soft to bottomed out on full hard (full kill) or setting 0 to setting 4. But the Koni adjustment guide really describes it as 4, 180's, so each 1/2 turn (180) is one setting, the way I read it anyway. Their site says not to run them for long at full soft, so the first 180 is setting 1, then another 90 is 1.5, 270 degrees os rotation from the full soft position. Again, this is how I interpreted the instructions, but this is also my first time to play with the settings.
 

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Ok, I just wondered where you were. I know they're supposed to have 720*, mine only have 630*, honest. And I believe it's been stated not to run full firm either. I use 90*(1/4 turn) adjustments, starting from 45*(1/8 turn) from full firm, f&r for SOLOII. If the rear is loose, I back-off 1/4 turn per run 'til it becomes more neutral, if not, I keep it there(I rarely touched the front adjustment). Last year I never had understeer on mid-to-high speed turns/slaloms, so I could start from very firm and dial in more neutral handling with just a little bit of oversteer.
On the street, I ran 180* to 270* from full soft and enjoyed every minute. This Winter I backed it down to 90* from full soft just to take it easy on the inserts.

Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Galo @ Feb 20 2009, 06:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Ok, I just wondered where you were. I know they're supposed to have 720*, mine only have 630*, honest. And I believe it's been stated not to run full firm either. I use 90*(1/4 turn) adjustments, starting from 45*(1/8 turn) from full firm, f&r for SOLOII. If the rear is loose, I back-off 1/4 turn per run 'til it becomes more neutral, if not, I keep it there(I rarely touched the front adjustment). Last year I never had understeer on mid-to-high speed turns/slaloms, so I could start from very firm and dial in more neutral handling with just a little bit of oversteer.
On the street, I ran 180* to 270* from full soft and enjoyed every minute. This Winter I backed it down to 90* from full soft just to take it easy on the inserts.

Enjoy.[/b]
Cool. Thanks for the info. I could imagine winter driving would get squirrely with too firm a setting. These are pretty cool. Wonder why yours are missing 90*? So if the rear is too loose, soften them up? Do you run the same settings front & rear? I have my first auto-x of the year tomorrow (Yea!) & can't wait to see how this works.

I had understeer like crazy last year, felt like the rear was dropping & taking weight off the front coming out of turns, almost like trying to turn with the front tires off the ground (they wern't actually off the ground).

Any other tuning tips would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My first auto-x was great with these, but I am starting to think I like the ability to drive around town with these set on 1 for an awesome street ride.
 

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Can anyone tell me how much material we need to remove for the rear struts? Is it the same 63MM?
It's been a while, but I think the measurement is in the instructions. I definitely don't remember the #, sorry.
 

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I can't remember the spec. I think it was different ft and rear. Check with your dealer or Koni for the correct distance.
 

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I do not recall the number for the front, but it is the same as the rear. Look at the insert. See the little bump tabs? The whole idea is to have those bump tabs inside the OEM strut housing with a little room to spare. If you leave too much housing then you run the risk of pulling the threads on the insert/bolt and/or making removal of the insert difficult (in the circumstance of a warrantee). Structurally I do not believe it adds much accept the insert will move around inside the housing without the tabs. Just my two cents.

The rears have no instructions.. it's strange, because i can't find anything at all about the rears.
 
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