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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
KseriesPower's build thread

Hello, relatively new to the forum and most of my posts were in the for sale section looking for a non running spyder. After years of racing Honda's and 1 year participating heavily in Autocross I FINALLY realized how bad FWD sucks. I have always had a thing for lotus' but I figured "I can make a much funner car than that for that kind of money." So the Spyder was the obvious choice. In late December I FINALLY came across one near Dallas TX. Borrowed my fathers truck and rented a Uhaul car hauler and went and picked her up...


Car doesnt run as it has ZERO compression (cold) on all cylinders. The top also has about a 6 inch tear in it. All of which doesnt matter one bit to me as Im looking to do a motor swap and LOVE the look of a hardtop.

This is getting dumped into it from my K24 EG hatch


ALOT of big plans for this car but im not going to mention them yet. Stay tuned.
 

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Sweet, always good to have more k separate threads
 

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2003 Toyota MR2 Spyder 2.0L Stroker
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Blasphemy! But I will watch anyway. Good luck!
Haha well said. If they ever make a decent don't hack your car V6 swap for the Spyder I may bite. But roll on and share the experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is that oil pump/pan better for some reason?
Yes. The k20a2 oil pump supports higher RPM than the K24 pump.

The k20a2 oil pan is cast aluminum and ties into the lower cassette (bottom of block) and the transmission. Im sure it makes the bottom end even more rigid than the K24 pan and has increased capacity.

the K24 oil pan is just a regular ol stamped steel pan that attaches to the bottom of the block. There is a plate that covers the bottom of the trans. where the K20a2 pan would cover. If you look up OEM parts of the RSX-s and TSX you can easily see the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE:
The 1ZZ is out. It had ZERO compression cold on the three cylinders I checked ( I didnt bother with the 4th). To check my gauge I tested on my K hatch and got 180 cold (10:1 compression).

Innovative K swap motor mounts, axles, and shift linkage adapter is on the way (I will pick up from UPS tomorrow).

Im 99% sure I have the wiring figured out and I have posted my findings in the "K series swap research thread" in the
Performance section. I am waiting on a tracking number for my RSX-S instrument (body harness).

There are two ways I'm considering doing this. Use the OEM cluster for Speedo, Tach, Fuel level, and MIL OR buy a tunerview RD1 and replace the whole cluster. The only downside of removing the stock spyder cluster is that the speed signal for the power steering pump is square waved in a circuit inside the cluster.

Coolant lines seem to be easy enough as the 1ZZ and K have similar coolant inlets and outlets. Will have to cap off the coolant outlet from the head just like the 1ZZ is in from the spyder.
 

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Awesome. Please keep the stock gauge if possible. Start a new thread, I need pics!!

I think I'll be able to do this later than I thought (winter instead of this summer). If some of you guys can pioneer this thing, super respect and grateful for any tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Awesome. Please keep the stock gauge if possible. Start a new thread, I need pics!!

I think I'll be able to do this later than I thought (winter instead of this summer). If some of you guys can pioneer this thing, super respect and grateful for any tips.
I have decided to use the OEM spyder cluster at first. I may eventually drop the power steering and move to a tunerview RD1.
 

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Id like to swing by tonite and see all your new k parts
 

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Come by early then. Im going pick them up after work then headed to my parents in MB @ around 6
alright Ill let you know Ill be heading back from rosepine
 
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