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my engine is DONE.... i have to buy a new engine now and need to know if anyone has dropped one, or what is the easiest way to get the engine out and new one in. any info will help my friend Renteria and I will be starting it monday. please please please help....
 

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here is the Story behind the Death of my engine....

I drive to LA almost every month for Drill (National guard) and i live in Oregon so i put almost 2,000 miles on my car monthy. So as usual before my trip i get an oil change done just to be safe. So i take off to LA and it runs great all the way here staying around 75-80 mph the whole way, Once i get to LA i pick up my friend Renteria and we go out and run some errands and about 8 miles away all of a sudden my car starts making a fluttering noise (like a wood pecker was attacking my engine) so we pull over and didn't know what to make of it so we let it sit for a little bit and cheak the oil and the end of the dip stick was dry..... and what little oil was on the dip stick was black and felt like water. so we babied it all the way to O'Reily's auto parts for oil (under 2,000 rpm) once we got there the sound had gotten worse... we put oil in it and some motor honey in hopes to help the problem but it didn't do a thing, so we putted it home (I know not good, but all my AAA was used up) so right as we get around the corner before his house the car makes a huge BOOM!!! and shakes the car hard then the tranny just stopped us in out tracks. we get out and look at when the BOOM hit us and there is oil everywhere the rod shot out the bottom of the engine and my engine was donefor .... :( so now im' looking for a new one to put in it and i want to do this my self (i'm not bad with cars, i know basic knowledge and my friend knows much more then i do but i need to know a basic lay out of what to do so anyone that can help me i would really appreciate it... god knows i need it thank you everyone for taking the time to read my sad story :unsure: (I love this car and don't want to scrap it) also i'm suck in cali till i fix it cuz thats my ride home.... :(
 

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Can't help other than to say look around here, there are several "how to" threads on engine swaps.

Oh, and NEVER drive your car when it's making noises and has no oil in it. For $6 you can have a can of oil in the car.

Good luck, I hope you can get hooked up with somebody down there who can help.
 

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Can't help other than to say look around here, there are several "how to" threads on engine swaps.

Oh, and NEVER drive your car when it's making noises and has no oil in it. For $6 you can have a can of oil in the car.

Good luck, I hope you can get hooked up with somebody down there who can help.
thanks, and i am reading as much as i can about it so if you know a link or anyone that works down here that can do it right and not charge me a kidney that would help and i will keep oil with me from now on...
 

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Oregon. Hmm. Your engine was spargo'd when you heard that wood pecker. If you are in a real hurry just swap out a used 1zz, and while you are there replace with an OEM clutch. Just curious, did you ever gut the pre-cats?
 

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thanks, and i am reading as much as i can about it so if you know a link or anyone that works down here that can do it right and not charge me a kidney that would help and i will keep oil with me from now on...
Maybe start another thread here, or re-title this one if you can, and say where you are, what you need, offer to pay for assistance and ask for help ? ? ?

"L.A." covers a lot of territory, be specific.
 

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Oregon. Hmm. Your engine was spargo'd when you heard that wood pecker. If you are in a real hurry just swap out a used 1zz, and while you are there replace with an OEM clutch. Just curious, did you ever gut the pre-cats?
no, i never did that just reg. maitenance and the clutch is a good idea too
 

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Tough luck, wow you got a lot of mileage on that original engine!!! It was probably done for already but running it with low oil even at any RPM is a death sentence for any engine.
 

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Check the precats and the main cat before you throw money at another engine. IF in fact the precat let go and fouled the engine and the main cat then that also needs to be rectified or you will be repeating the engine change process in short order. Do you know for certain that you had a full crankcase of oil after the oil change? Could be that the engine was just tired and burned that amount of oil in 2,000 miles though that is getting excessive.
 

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Dropping engine Tips

Disclaimer this I how I dropped the engine twice. My car was a 03, some details about number of connectors/bolts and sizing might be a little off. I might forget a wire/step or two just a heads up. No I'm not a tech, no I don't have ASE certs. I've just dropped motors out of mr2's gen 1-3 about 15 times. Hope this helps and good luck. I had too much redbull today and can't sleep so I'll write a novel. This method you drop the engine /trans/drive train/harness as one giant unit.

You only need one SST for the axle nuts, an engine hoist, motor cycle lift (optional makes life easy). The rest can be done with a set of basic hand tools. 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm most common sizes are all you need for the most part. Having a friend or two to help makes things easier but can be done alone you will just be more angry.


Step 1. Remove all wiring plugs in the interior from the ecu, body harness. You will need to remove the driver's side storage bin door, plactic on top of the fuel tank. All 10mm screws, or use a philips bit driver. There are about 3-4 plugs on the ecu if I remember right the ecu should be on the firewall. Now look at the harness and how it goes to the right. There are more plugs to remove from the body think about three also. At this point you should be able to push the entire harness through the firewall.

Step 2. Axle nuts, big tip here. Before you jack up your car and fiddle with removing brakes and stuff break loose the axle nuts. If you have stock wheels or aftermarket with center caps take those off. Look through the opening and you should see the axle nuts. They are "pinched" in position vs using a cotter pin like on the other mr2's. You will have to stuff a flat head in there and bend the "pinch" on the nut out. Be very careful you don't screw up the threads here bending things. Sorry don't know how to describe this better. The nut itself should be a 12point 30mm nut. Now I hope you got a big breaker bar these nuts should be very tight. I used a 1/2inch breaker bar and a lead pipe from homedepot. I placed said tool onto the nut, then directly under the 6inch extension that I used places a jack to support things and get better leverage. After that is just a bunch of grunting cursing at the car. YOU SHOULD GET NEW AXLE NUTS it's 30 dollars for the pair btw.

Step 3. Removing the rear bumper this is optional but just makes life easier. Obviously unplug all your tail lights, reverse lights, remove license plate. Jack up the rear end of the car up into the air to a manageable height not super high yet. Remove wheels, there are two 10mm screws in the leading edge of the rear bumper behind the wheel on each side about 6 on the bottom edge of the bumper. Up top on the bumper there are maybe 4 plastic body plugs that you just pop out using a flat head. There are 2 screws holding in the tail lights on each side. Be careful pulling these out, (driver's side example) there is also a plastic peg on these lights at the bottom left corner. It should be able to wiggle out but do this gently cause you don't want to buy new tail lights cause you broke a stupid plastic bit. After the tail lights are out you will see the last 4 10mm bolts that hold the bumper to the body. Once those are removed you should be able to just pull off the rear bumper skin.

Step 4. Make some room and remove a bunch of stuff topside. 4 10mm bolts on the engine lid, remove get it out of the way. Remove all ground wires up on the body all 10mm bolts also. These ground wires are all over the place so make sure you check all over. Remove the battery, (tip don't put the battery directly on the ground put some cardboard under it so it doesn't lose charge). Follow the negative battery terminal wire and remove it from the fuze box. After you removed all these wires from the body, your engine harness should be free. Place it on top of the engine safely out of the way.

Step 5. Remove exhaust. You could take the entire thing out or just unbolt the mid pipe from the header and muffler. Nuts are 12mm on the header these are one time use parts so good idea to replace them. I took the remove the entire exhaust route. You should be able to figure this out easily, remove o2 sensors heat shields etc..... Note sliding the muffler off of the rubber hangers suck!!! Use some lube it helps but still sucks.

Step 6. Brakes. Ok this is the part I'm a little fuzzy about. There are ABS sensors in the hubs don't try to pull these out. Instead follow the wire and look where it unplugs from the body. I forgot where exactly it's located on the body but be very very careful about this part. Remove ebrake lines, there's just a cotter ping and a bolt for these super easy. Pull the pins keep them in a safe place and ebrake lines should be free. Remove brake lines from the caliper and from the strut body. Good idea to plug these up so you don't have fluid all over the place.

Step 7. Transmission bits. Before you crawl under the car remove the shifter cables from the trans. Held in place similar to the ebrake lines. Don't lose those stupid pins. Move cables out the way don't bend them just take them off the linkage. Time to now crawl under the car and deal with the clutch hardline. I hate this part, Remove the clutch hardline at the clutch slave end first 10mm or 8mm. Right next to your front motor mount. Take caution you don't break this part it's a pain in the ass if this part breaks!!!! Let the clutch fluid bleed out.

Step 8. AC. The AC compressor is held in by what feels to be the world's longest bolts 12mm size there should be either 3 or 4 of these evil things. Remove this part from the engine. Don't disconnect the lines from the compressor or you will have to recharge and you kinda broke the law if you do this on your own. Hang the compressor and prop it up under the car so the lines are slack just make sure it's out of the way.

Step 9. Coolant lines. Get a big bucket ready this is messy. There are two big coolant lines the fire wall just take these hoses off and get out the way. Coolant fill tank, follow the line out the bottom of the tank to the engine. Unplug and get out the way. You should be able to keep the tank inside the car now.
 

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Step 10. Fuel line/random vac lines. Back on the firewall there are about 4 or so 1/4 inch hard lines to the left of the front motor mount. These are various vac lines and one fuel line. Remove the rubber hoses from said hard lines.

Which one is the fuel line is very obvious. Now the scary part. You will find out that all the fuel that is shot into the engine and what seperates you from a engine fire is just one plastic clip. Take caution with this part it just snaps off you then slide it up and there you go your fuel system is disconnected from the tank. Don't lose or break this plastic part very important!!!!

Step 11. Suspension bits. Remove various braces and bars from the bottom of the car. Rule of thumb if it runs front to back remove it, if it runs left to right leave it alone. Sizes for these nuts/bolts 17mm/14mm. Rear crossmember is held into the body by 4 bolts 17mm or 19mm located at the corners. Up top, just remove the 3 14mm on the struts. I'm sure you already removed the xbrace by now but those are 14mm also anyhow.

Step 12. Motor Mounts. Remove front motor mount from body and trans. 14mm bolts you will not like this part as it's a pain in the ass due to lack of clearance. You'll see when you are there. Now you are "ready" to drop the engine so time to use that engine hoist and get the tail end in the air. I did this by wrapping a tow strap around the rear bumper support. Slide the motorcycle lift under the trans side and support it as the trans easily out weighs the engine. Now the "tricky" part. How to attached a chain to the motor. Toyota in their great wisdom only has one engine HOOK!!!!!!!!!!!!! Make sure the car is properly supported and the chain is tight as this is where things get a little interesting. I put the wheels back on the hubs for this part btw.

Passenger side motor mount is held in by 3 14mm nuts on the engine side, and one 19mm bolt on the body side. This part looks like some evil weapon kinda cool but make sure things are tight and use some common sense here!!!!! Before you proceed any further check everything is disconnected from the body you could have missed a few wires, hoses etc....

Driver's side mount. You just have to remove one very long through bolt here. Again make sure things are secure, chain is tight and that lift is nice and secure on the trans side. After you remove the bolt on this mount lower everything in one shot. I mean everything is coming out, the trans, rear cross member, suspension, engine harness hoses the entire thing.

Once things are on the ground you have all the room in the world to take things apart. Have fun and take your time, take pictures etc..... I doubt at this point you need a walk through. Good luck time wise one weekend your first time going slowly. That's how long it took me first time I dropped the engine on a spyder. But again not the first time I dropped an engine on a mr2 so your time may vary.
 
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