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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having an issue with an oil leak with my 2zz swap, first it was the oil pan fixed that but still leaks a tiny bit. Found that my modified 1zz dipstick wasn't sealing properly, replaced it with an MWR dip stick tube, I actually found that mine was off but just a bit. So that stopped leaking now. There now seems to be a leak by the crank position sensor, could this be a spot for a leak? Here's a pic

It also seems to be leaking right where the ac compressor is mounted here's a pic but might be hard to tell though

I think I'm going to contact DDPR in Texas and figure out how to get it I over there
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to mention my oil light will also flash sometimes
 

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Did you separate the TC cover at all? Toga makes an oil pump if you need to replace that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I bought an oil pump from MWR with CW oil pump gears the engine was completely rebuilt as it's a 1.93 stroker from MWR. The oil light only flickers once or twice while idling I drove the car earlier and when I slowed down to turn around doesn't flash while at throttle
 

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The oil light only flickers once or twice while idling
..

Your bottom end is TOAST.. Will need to be re-set up..

you have a problem.. DO NOT DRIVE THIS CAR.. Tow it where ever it needs to go..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh sh** that is the absolute last thing I needed hear. What makes you say that Cap??
 

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These motors NEVER have the Oil Lite On.. Unless it's in the Last Throws of Death.. ( Rod knock and the Like )

With an Engine that has Normal Good Oil pressure, the ONLY way to have the Oil Lite come on it if something is FUBAR..

USUALLY Loss of Oil Pressure is Indicative of Bad Main Bearings.. with Rod Bearings Suffering the Consequences of the Oil Loss.. ( Rod Knock )..

The ONLY other way I can think of having an Oil Pressure Issue, is if the Oil Pump was on of them produced with BAD Clearances.. and it is Eating it self up.. and tossing the Pieces at the Bearings..

Either way.. it's time to worry.. One quick way to get a feel for any posable damage, is to drop the Pan and look at the bearings.. ( Rod ).. if they are scratched.. the Crank is toast..

If it was Mine.. I'd Drop the Motor and Dissemble to chack for the problem.. you've got too much invested in this to grande it with a bad oil problem..

Cap
 

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I have some E-Mails that have pictures of a Spyderchat Member that was working on his Stroker a few years ago.. Started off as a 'Tick' as some speeds.. He Dropped the Oil Pan and found Gold Flakes..

That crank was toast.. Likely it was a Poorly Set up Rod Bearing.. Too Tight.. He never let it run long enough to get an Oil Pressure problem..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
My builder had mentioned that the bearings were tight but he had them fixed to spec. I'm not getting any kind of ticking sounds I'll verify tomorrow. I feel like I'm never going to get this car running well.
 

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I have a VERY tedious Procedure that I use when setting up a Motor..

I Plastigauge the Main Bearings to get them to Spec.. and use Aluminum Foil Shims to get the Clearance Proper if Too Wide.. then VERIFY that the Crank still Turns Freely after assembly.. Using Oil Only.. No Assembly Lube..

Then I Plastigauge the The Rods and Verify Each Rod Piston Combo ( No Rings ) turns Freely.. and Alluminum Foil to get the Clearances down to where I want them..

Then I Assemble all the Rod and Pistons into to Block ( Still no Rings ) and Verify that it will turn by hand.. All of this is done with Oil.. as assembly Lube will cause a Higher Drag, and you will loose the Feel..

Then the Crank comes out and Assembly Lube goes on. and then the rings go on and the bottom is final assembled with assembly lube..

So far I have not had the Luxury of having bearings too tight to start with.. usually I'm doing this to old stuff..

If you use 'Aftermarkett Bearings' for the Motor.. they are one Size Fits all.. and can be too tight if things are new.. to fix that, the Factory bearings are offered in different 'Grades'.. and can get you the Clearance you need..

I'm Usually on the Other Side of the problem.. Trying to get things Tight Enough..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Cap,
You wanna rebuild my engine? ?
So if at this point there are metal shavings in the oil pan the engine's gotta come apart but as far as new parts it'll mainly be the crank and bearings correct? I was using MWR bearings. Obviously the engine will have to be cleaned inside and out and the oil pump will have to be inspected.
 

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I like what I see and hear..

I'm having a problem with the Oil Lite..

Drop the Oil.. into a CLEAN pan.. then drop the Oil Pan and have a Look..

Do this in a CLEAN not windy space.. you can replace the Oil Pan 'Gaskett Goo' with an actual gaskett if you like.. ( think it's a 98 Geo Prism.. toyota motor.. ZZ? )

If the oil is clean.. and the Inside of the Pan has no, " OMG what the Heck it that Krap!!".. in it, then all is well. Then you should put an actual; pressure gauge on the Oil System, rather than the Lite, and see what is up.. think there is a thread on Oil pressures at various RPM.. ( Littlerocket? )

Cap
 

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you might want to check the oil pressure sensor. The BGB calls for very low pressure at idle on the 1zz, I suspect the 2zz is similar but I don't have the specs. I would put another oil gauge in and see what it reads. I do dislike idiot lights, always to late.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay I can do those things my only concern then if everything checks out is the actual leak
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I actually already have the cork/rubber gasket I just didn't use it and used hondabond only. My problem is I don't have a real clean environment as the garage is too full, so I'll have to
figure something out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Okay so I have the oil pressure gauge set up, but I'm confused....
Here it is idling at 1k rpm


Here's my psi....


It's too high isn't it? The manual says it should be 5.7 psi @ 3k is this correct?
 
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