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2000 MR2 1ZZ, 2002 Corolla 3ZZ, 2008 Avensis Estate 2AD-FTV
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

currently my built engine with the Wiseco 10:1 pistons is going out as it seems. I am not sure what went wrong or what's to blame. has only 6000km. Starts to consume oil an is noisy and the walls are scratched.

Anyways, I am planning on swapping out the ECU to my LinkG4+ Thunder that I have.
Trouble is: I need the OE ECU to work the cluster and AC.

What wires/Sensors does the OEM ECU need in order to trigger the outputs (AC, Temp, and so on)? What sensors can be shared by both ECU's?
Has anybody done that?

I know there's a board availably by Frankenstien Motorworks. But this is out of stock since he has some troubles with it.
Oooris there something else availbale that I can use?

I need to pass a annual technical inspection with emission test (HC, CO, Lambda).

Thanks in advance!

BR
Dom
 

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Yeah what you want to do is to piggyback the stock ECU. You can share i.e. splice all the relevant inputs just like you would with a generic piggyback ECU like an Emanage. The only input you cannot share is the water temperature - you need to add one temperature sensor so your Link and the stock ecu each havef their own.This has been done starting about ten years ago. It is fairly self-explanatory, and works really well. It makes you question why there is a need for any other "solution."
 

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I had all necessary sensors shared between ecus including the temperature sensor. For that sensor, the pullup resistor has to be disable in the standalone ecu because there is one in the factory ecu. The 1zz stock ecu + standalone worked ok. The setup would run without the stock ecu completely, it just wouldn't have the ac, alternator, and temp gauge control. My 2zz I had some electrical noise issues that were most likely related to sharing some sensors between ecus but it still ran fine. The 1zz didn't have that problem and it was virtually the same setup.

Stock ECU can run...
-Temp gauge
-Tach
-Alternator light
-AC Control
-Power steering pump control
-oil dummy light

It will need plugged into it
-Power + Ground
-crank signal (shared)
-coolant temp signal (shared)
-all ac related items
-the P/S stuff
-the MPX lines
-oil pressure switch
-sensor ground legs only for the VR sensors and temp sensor leg

The standalone can run everything else

I might be leaving some stuff out but that's the general idea at least.

As far as passing emissions, I'm not sure how they do it in Graz but if it's a simple OBD2 test this setup obviously won't work. The factory ECU will be freaking out. If it's a tail pipe test, then as long as you have a catalytic converter and get the tune dialed in, you should be fine.
 

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IGF = signal coming from the coils for confirmation that they are there and working.
I left that disconnected. Be careful adding that. I'm not sure what is going on internally with the stock ECU. There might be some kind of pullup resistor or something. That could create a ground loop if the ground for that leg is being fed from the standalone. Purely theoretical here. Regardless, it wasn't necessary for me so it might not matter either way.
 

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2000 MR2 1ZZ, 2002 Corolla 3ZZ, 2008 Avensis Estate 2AD-FTV
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the support so far!

What happens to the factory ECU when it sees over-rev? say 7100-7200 rpm instead of 6900 which I believe is the factory rev limit.
I think the factory ECU does not need cam signal?

The thing is:There are some factory ECU's out there which react really sensitive to over rev.
So, just to be safe: my plan is, to get another factory ECU which will be part of the piggyback system. But if this is a EU ECU it will have the immobilizer system. Result is: the new factory ECU will see the wrong key and not deactivate the immobilizer. But the engine starts as it is controlled by the Link G4+. Will the ECU then enable the control of body related stuff (P/S,A/C, etc)?

Because otherwise I would go for a US 1ZZ ECU since the do not have an immobilizer as far as I am concerned?

Yeah cars before 2006 have a tailpipe test: HC <60ppm, CO <0,3Vol% an Lambda between 0,97 and 1,03. So get teh tune dialed in and have a cat and it should be fine.
 

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The factory ECU in a normal car will stop firing the fuel injectors for whatever the predetermined time is once it hits the RPM limit. That's pretty much it. It might throw a code at some rpm above that. A factory ECU in parallel with a standalone will be generally pissed off about everything but that's ok because it's not actually controlling anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I know, but I'm thinking of the scenario that it gets pissed everything, but if I have to reuse it, can I get it to work?

Some ECU's I came across, were not useable if the engine over revved, and you had to get another one. That's with some crappy European engineered ECUs...

If that's not a problem - perfect!
 

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I never went back and used my spyder ecu for normal purposes so I'm not completely sure. If I had to take a guess, it works exactly the way it originally worked after power cycling and resetting the codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So far so good!
just ordered another OEM engine wiring loom to get startet.
I also want to swap out the trans, since the EU model has 3.941 axle ratio and I have a EU Celica C63 with 4.312 axle ratio laying around.
so many projects not enough time:rolleyes:

Since I want to go with a electronic throttle in my setup, which accelerator pedal will fit the mr2 best?

I'll keep you updated
 

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2000 MR2 1ZZ, 2002 Corolla 3ZZ, 2008 Avensis Estate 2AD-FTV
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Does anyone have Dead Times for the 1zz injectors. I have the green ones.
 

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Since I want to go with a electronic throttle in my setup, which accelerator pedal will fit the mr2 best?
I'd like to know the best option for this too, although there is probably an answer on the forum somewhere already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks for the data! i will try that out.

I am really looking forward to my link ecu swap.

it will be a challenge, since i have to get the tune absolutely perfect in order to be incognito.
I also want to put in map switches for lambda target, throttle, and some other fun features, pops and bangs included.
For this, I will switch to a 200cpsi metal cat, the brittle ceramic oem ones are too dangerous for heavy exhaust pressure fluctuations IMO.
I will also gut the precats.

My plan now is:
MAP sensor and dedicated IAT sensor for link
dedicated ECT sensor
oil temp and pressure in a sandwich plate (the oe oil p switch will be wired to the oem ecu for the dash to work correctly)
Shared crank sensor
cam sensor only to link (the oem ECU will switch to wasted spark ignition and group injection)
e-throttle conversion
replace the OEM 02 sensors with 2 LSU 4.9 (Link Thunder has 2 wideband on boards)
I think I have to get a 2nd fuse&relay box for e-throttle and probably for the Link.
wire the tach and the CEL to Link
one wire from the A/C clutch to a DI of the Link for idle up
wide band knock sensor instead of the alledgetly crappy narrowband old style oem one (leave the OEM one connected..)
leave all OEM sensors connected which I don't need for the Link (TPS, knock, post cat o2, MAF with IAT, ECT)
install 2 K-type Thermocouples (Thunder has two inpputs for that)
Oh of course not to forget to mention the OCV for VVT-I. Link has a really good pre-set for toyota's vvt-I system, lets see if there's is any possibility to have that cam angle target also switchable....

I ordered a used 2nd wiring loom yesterday, tobe able to switch back to OE specs when needed.

Let's see, what we can do with the loud pedal.:cool:


Stay tuned!
 
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