I've tried the search function but not much came up.
Sometimes it took about 10s to crank but it would start right up (may be 1 out of 30 starts)
Could it be the fuel pump is about to go or the fuel pressure regulator not holding pressure?
I assume that 10s to crank means that it cranks for 10s before starting. If it runs fine after that, I'd suspect fuel pressure. Perhaps an injector is bleeding down, or the fuel pump isn't turning on when the key turns on.
If the Fuel Pressure Regulator is Bleading Down, then the Fuel is Leaking back to the tank..
If you have an Injector Leak, then the Fuel is Leaking into a Cylinder, and the Warm Fuel is Vaporizing in the Line, pushing more into the Cylinder..
The Fuel Pressure SHOULD be good for HOURS after the Engine Shuts Down.. BTDT..
I recently pulled the Fuel System apart on a '95 Nissan that was sitting for more than 2 weeks.. Still had fuel pressure!..
If you try and pull an injector after a few hours of sitting, and you have no pressure, then you have an internal leak somewhere..
I'd Start by having the Injectors removed Tested, and Cleaned.. I do not think that really is the Probelm.. But for $100 you will get better Fuel Millage on your 130 K Mile Car.. and it rule out the Easy Fix..
And if that does not solve your Problem, then next on the List is the Fuel Pressure Regulator.. It's in the Tank.. In the 'Gauge/Pump/Regulator/Filter' assembly.. PITA, and the Regulator is $150.. Once you get all the Plastic and Wires out of the Way, it 'Pops' out..
I'm having a fuel related starting problem with my '01 Spyder, 80k miles, totally stock with good (for now) precats. It takes longer to start when it's hot, a few seconds before it will fire. It's like the old "vapor lock" experienced when fuel gets overheated in the lines. When it's cooled down, it starts right up every time, but it strains to start when warm. If anybody can tell me what to do to address this, I'd really appreciate some input.
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