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Installing a momo hub on the spyder is fairly involved and really should only be attempted by the experienced do-it-yourselfer. Paying someone to do this would be expensive, and finding a professional to take the time to do this might be difficult. Note: you will not be able to retain SMT controls or an airbag.

As always, a Toyota service manual (big green book/BGB) will help you out with the details pertaining to the stock parts and should be used in conjunction with what is written here.

Allow a minimum of two hours for this project.

Tools required:
-#2 Phillips screwdriver
-(2) small flat blade screwdrivers
-19mm socket with extension
-T25 Torx
-Dremel or die grinder or a flat file and a lot of patience
-Wire strippers
-Side cutters
-Soldering iron
-Heat gun
-Small hammer
-Power Drill
-Assorted drill bits
-Small scale or calipers for measuring

Materials required"
-6" of wire, 22awg or so
-Rosin core solder
-Heat shrink tubing
-(1) brass tack
-(1) 3-4 ohm resistor or (3) ten ohm resistors
-Misc small hardware

-Start by disconnecting your battery.

-Remove the plastic trim around the stock steering wheel. I already had everything removed from my car but the main dash assembly, so you will have to consult the BGB or figure out on your own what is the minimum number of components that will have to be removed.

-Disconnect the horn and airbag wires

-Remove the airbag by loosening the two torx screws on each side. They must snap into the plastic exterior housing of the airbag or else they will not extract far enough and the airbag will be loose, but still attached to the steering wheel. Set the airbag aside (face up)

-Remove the fixing nut from the steering shaft with a 19mm socket. The steering wheel is an interference fit in the shaft, so even a honch like myself will have to use something to pull it off. A gear puller or a piece of metal across the loosened fixing nut and tightened down by two bolts on each side will do the trick. The base of the steering wheel is drilled and tapped to easily accommodate this method.

-Remove the black plastic 'clock spring' (CS) assembly. It clips in place in top and at each side. You will use this for parts.

-Remove the inside sleeve of the CS that engages the turn signals by lifting two of the four tabs with your little screwdrivers and working your way around. Do not break these tabs, you will need them.

-Note how this part is oriented with the small recess on top and the large recess on the bottom. See pic below. Keep this in mind as you work.



-Also note that your momo hub has a top/bottom orientation for this project as well. The single notch goes up, while the three notches go down (as shown below)



-Take the inner hub of the CS that you removed and prepare to mate it to your momo hub. The first thing to do is mark and cut the four plastic latches. You want to remove 7mm from all of them. Note: your car may have different tolerances than mine, so you may need to trim off a little extra here and there to make all this fit without binding.

Here is the CS hub with the firs two plastic tabs trimmed 7mm:



Here is the CS hub with all four tabs trimmed 7mm:



Next, trim 4mm from the TOP two tabs as shown:



Now you want to trim 4mm from HALF of the bottom two tabs. It can be the left half of both or the right half of both. Just make sure it is the same side of each tab that you trim. The long half of the tab will notch into your momo hub.



You will have to trim just a little off of the two tall tabs that are left to get them to key into place. Grind a little from the inside of the pair as shown:



If you work carefully, you will get a nice interface that looks like this:



This is how it should look installed in the car:



The hub will press about 1mm onto the shaft when you tighten it down, so make sure you have enough clearance between the momo and the shaft bearings.

You now have the turn signals back up to speed. The next problem to solve is making the horn operational. Go back to the clock spring and salvage the white plastic spring. You will be making something out of it that looks like this:



This is where you use your brass tack and misc. small hardware. Drill a suitable hole in the plastic spring and hammer in the tack once you have verified where it needs to be by trial fitting. Then trim off the excess of the plastic spring. It will be bolted to the steering column in the hole you drilled top center as shown:



Solder a short wire to the tack and bend the point of the tack up to lock it in place. Attach this assembly to the steering column. You will need to give the plastic spring a serious bending to re-shape it to fit the confines of its new home:



Here is what it looks like all put together:





The last thing you need to do is solder the pigtail from the brass tack to the cars horn wire. It should be the white wire on the plug with all yellow wires that you removed from the clock spring. Verify this as you never know for sure what color of wire was used. You will also need to trick the ECU into thinking an airbag is installed, otherwise you will get an annoying light on your dash. This may NOT be an issue if you have a standalone (PFC). Locate the two airbag wires and solder a resistor(s) across these leads to net a 3-4ohm resistance.

Put everything back together, torqueing to spec. and go rally!
 

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Maybe it is the Momo hub that makes this so involved. I installed an aftermarket steering wheel with a BOSS hub about 4 months ago and it was very very easy. I didn't do nearly anything how it is outlined in this tutorial.
 

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Originally posted by greenstreak
Maybe it is the Momo hub that makes this so involved. I installed an aftermarket steering wheel with a BOSS hub about 4 months ago and it was very very easy. I didn't do nearly anything how it is outlined in this tutorial.
Where did you get your Boss hub from? Did the horn still works with the boss hub? Thanks
 

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There was a write up on installing a Sparco Mugello steering wheel in Spyder Magazine in the September 2003 issue under the articles page. The installer used a hub kit from Taka Kaira in Japan that allows the auto signal cancel return to work, and will keep the SRS (airbag) light off. The SMT functions can also still be used with the paddle shit bracket that he installed with his Sparco wheel. More Japan also sells the correct hubs for trouble free installation. http://www.more-japan.com/search.php?mode=search
 

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Originally posted by greenstreak
Ebay.
Yes it does. As does the auto off for the turn signals. The airbag light is on.
The SPLASH boss kit came with a plug that turns off the airbag light for me.

It's completely plug and play, I would never go through all that work for the MOMO hub, that's just ridiculous :crazyeyes:
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Ebay.
Yes it does. As does the auto off for the turn signals. The airbag light is on.[/b]
You can place a 3.3ohm resistor across the airbag wires like above and this will put the airbag light off.
 

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Awesome write up on installing the momo HUB. I installed mine today and everything worked as written on this write up. Follow these instructions and you wont go wrong. The momo works just as well as the Boss Splash hub with just a little more work and it is a lot cheaper. I bought mine from someone on the forum for less than 60 dollars shipped while the boss splash hub is advertised for 160 dollars. The only extra cost for the momo is the $1.50 resister and thumbtack.
Thanks for the write up!!!!
 
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