MR2 SpyderChat banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
446 Posts
Discussion Starter #1


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Okay here goes:
I have been chasing a rattle in my engine compartment. It started off really quiet several months ago and has slowly gotten worse. I have cleaned my vvti screen and OCV, replaced my belt tensioner and my drive belt (it needed it anyway.) I just did an oil change (it was due), replaced the PCV (for good measure, they're cheap anyway), and my timing chain tensioner (it was leaking). During the oil change I used some large hose clamps on a couple of heat shields around the exhaust just to see if that would help. It did not.

If anything, the noise has gotten worse after I changed the drive belt and tensioner. Today I put a big hose to my ear and stuck the other end in the engine bay with it running to try and isolate the noise. I think I read about this trick from this site somewhere... Anyway, according to the diagram above, the water pump seems to be making the most noise. Through the hose, everything is a dull roar until I get it up next to the WP pulley. Then it gets so loud that it almost hurts. I guess my last trick will be to remove the drive belt, start the engine briefly, and see if the noise has subsided. I'm just waiting for the car to cool off for a bit before I go sticking my hands down in there again. I should also mention that I never see the coolant temp spike. I have even data logged for 30min at a time and everything seems to be normal.

Anyone have any other ideas? The noise has become a very load rattling sound that can be heard from quite a ways away now. It can only be heard during idle or really low rpms while the car is stationary. It goes away completely at cruise, acceleration, or any other state of travel other then idle. Is it normal for a bad water pump to make a sound like this and still pump coolant? When I have found a bad water pump on other vehicles they make a loud whining sound, not a knocking sound like this...

Other information:
2003 Spyder with 96k miles on it. I'm the second owner and have had it for the last 4.5 years. It is stock except for lots of bracing and a Che header. When I changed the oil, I sent it off for analysis. It just shipped out today, so it'll be a little while yet.

Any advice is appreciated! It's starting to drive me nuts! (By the way, what is the "VP" pulley in the diagram?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
446 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I forgot to mention, the noise gets louder when the car warms up. But you can still hear it a bit when it's cold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,970 Posts


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Okay here goes:
I have been chasing a rattle in my engine compartment. It started off really quiet several months ago and has slowly gotten worse. I have cleaned my vvti screen and OCV, replaced my belt tensioner and my drive belt (it needed it anyway.) I just did an oil change (it was due), replaced the PCV (for good measure, they're cheap anyway), and my timing chain tensioner (it was leaking). During the oil change I used some large hose clamps on a couple of heat shields around the exhaust just to see if that would help. It did not.

If anything, the noise has gotten worse after I changed the drive belt and tensioner. Today I put a big hose to my ear and stuck the other end in the engine bay with it running to try and isolate the noise. I think I read about this trick from this site somewhere... Anyway, according to the diagram above, the water pump seems to be making the most noise. Through the hose, everything is a dull roar until I get it up next to the WP pulley. Then it gets so loud that it almost hurts. I guess my last trick will be to remove the drive belt, start the engine briefly, and see if the noise has subsided. I'm just waiting for the car to cool off for a bit before I go sticking my hands down in there again. I should also mention that I never see the coolant temp spike. I have even data logged for 30min at a time and everything seems to be normal.

Anyone have any other ideas? The noise has become a very load rattling sound that can be heard from quite a ways away now. It can only be heard during idle or really low rpms while the car is stationary. It goes away completely at cruise, acceleration, or any other state of travel other then idle. Is it normal for a bad water pump to make a sound like this and still pump coolant? When I have found a bad water pump on other vehicles they make a loud whining sound, not a knocking sound like this...

Other information:
2003 Spyder with 96k miles on it. I'm the second owner and have had it for the last 4.5 years. It is stock except for lots of bracing and a Che header. When I changed the oil, I sent it off for analysis. It just shipped out today, so it'll be a little while yet.

Any advice is appreciated! It's starting to drive me nuts! (By the way, what is the "VP" pulley in the diagram?)
Mark G has a similar problem and it turned out to be the water pump which gave way and dumped coolant everywhere. My advice is to remove the belt and spin the water pump and check for any play.
I am sure that is the culprit and a water pump replacement is easy. Don't get suck like Mark G and have to have your car towed home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Is really hard to tell just by a written description, if you post a video it may help us to help you. The VP pulley is the idler pulley.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
446 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks dev, it's good to know I'm not crazy. Well, not completely...

"it turned out to be the water pump which gave way and dumped coolant everywhere" Wow, that sounds like fun.... Judging by the sounds it's making, I'm probably not far off!
You say the WP replacement is easy huh? Any good how to's? I guess I should search (duh).

sh4branze,
I actually checked that spot and put a clamp on it. The funny thing was, I have seen pictures where the welds have broken, but mine doesn't seem to have ever had welds in the first place.

Off topic, anyone know what the VP pulley is in the diagram? Edit: -answered, thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,643 Posts
I kept using a screw driver and prying it away from the pipe and the rattle would go away for a few days.I eventually removed the heat shield all together.Putting a clamp on it would have made it worse in my situation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,970 Posts
Thanks dev, it's good to know I'm not crazy. Well, not completely...

"it turned out to be the water pump which gave way and dumped coolant everywhere" Wow, that sounds like fun.... Judging by the sounds it's making, I'm probably not far off!
You say the WP replacement is easy huh? Any good how to's? I guess I should search (duh).

sh4branze,
I actually checked that spot and put a clamp on it. The funny thing was, I have seen pictures where the welds have broken, but mine doesn't seem to have ever had welds in the first place.

Off topic, anyone know what the VP pulley is in the diagram? Edit: -answered, thanks!
It's easy, you just need to remove those 10mm screws that go around the water pump and it comes off.
When you replace it there is a rubber O ring that must be position right and then just place it back and tighten down the little bolts. Don't over torque them just make sure they are tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,970 Posts
I don't have to drain the coolant?
You don't have to drain the coolant however you will lose some when removing the pump.
Then you will need to add some make up coolant and burp the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
446 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Update: I finally got around to installing the replacement water pump. Success! The rattle is gone! Wow it is good to be back in the Spyder after driving my wife's SUV for 5 days...

Anyway, for those interested, the replacement wasn't overly hard to do.
1. Remove rear strut bar brace.
2. Remove engine lid. (OPTIONAL!) I did it so I could get my enormous breaker bar into the bay for step 4. This involves the 4 10mm (maybe 12mm?) bolts on the hinges, 3-4 plastic clips that can be popped open with a flathead, and one electrical plug.
3. Unplug passenger side O2 sensor. This is also optional, but it gives just a tad more space to flail about back there.
4. Apply force (clockwise, or towards the front of the car) to to drive belt tensioner and remove drive belt. I think the bolt was somewhere in the 19-20mm range. (It's not really a bolt, but a protrusion from the tensioner assembly.)
WARNING: During step 5 you will lose about 1/2 a gallon of coolant. Be ready to catch it in something. I would not advise reusing it because it will drain down the side of your dirty engine block. I would also advise taking the cap off of your coolant reservoir in the engine bay and jacking the car up a little bit. This is to avoid air bubbles ending up in some more difficult to burp areas of your cooling system. Perhaps this is overkill, but it's what I did.
5. Undo 6 10mm bolts holding the water pump onto the block. It can be difficult to get to them all. For at least one of them I slid under the car to place the socket on the bolt and then ratchet it from the top. Remember what order they go in. On my '03, 2 of the bolts were shorter then the others. You can tell which holes the shorter bolts belong too because you can see the threading go all the way to the top of the hole. The longer bolts go into the holes on the block where you can't easily see the threading.
6. Pry out old gasket with flathead and clean the area up. I used some thick paper towels and it seemed to do the trick.
7. Install new gasket. Gently push it into the groove that the old one was in.
8. Maneuver your new water pump past the right bridge mount and into the hole that the old one was in. Replace 6 10mm screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!!!! As dev said earlier in this thread, they just need to be snug.
9. Put everything back together.
10. Begin to add new coolant into the reservoir. Jack the car way up in the air and give it plenty of time for the air bubbles to come out. I let mine sit for almost 24 hours just to be safe. I started it up today and have no problems!

Hopefully if anyone stumbles across this in the future, they will find this useful.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top