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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone used this on their MR2 before oil change?

I’m considering doing it to see if it helps with oil consumption; maybe it will free up sticking piston rings? I used it previously on my diesel excavator and it made a considerable difference. It reduced blow by gases and exhaust emissions a lot and made it easier to start.
Can you think of or know any harm it may cause?
 

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Sounds like you need to rebuild your engine anyway. So go ahead and try it but it won't do squat for stuck oil rings.
Horror stories on rebuilding these things are myth. Really not much difference than rebuilding most any post 90s Toyota 4 cylinder. All the blocks work pretty much the same. It's the heads where the difference main occurs.
I have no issue rebuilding an engine but I didn't want to buy all the specialty tools for a one shot deal. So, having nothing but time on my hands I remove a "JDM" (ha ha) I had just put in. I turned the upside down on a stand, removed the pan and filled snd soaked the cylinders from the bottom with the nastiest stuff I could find brake fluid, naptha, acetone, ect. Although I did skip hydrofluric acid. Soaked for days draining out the plug holes. Put it back together it burned more oil than ever.
I did know it was stupid at the time. But you try that snake medic and let us know...
 
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I tried a BG product years ago when my spyder had 60k on the engine and was using more oil than I liked. I did it a few times in a row and it reduced the oil usage for a long time. At 120k it was using more oil than I liked so I replaced the engine with a brand new one :) I haven't used measurable oil in the last 55k and only check the level before a change now :)

Try it but follow directions
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My thinking is there might be a point when excessive oil consumption can’t be corrected so I wanted to be a little proactive.

The car is using a little over a quart in an extended interval of 8,000 miles so it’s not too bad yet and can probably be improved just by reducing the interval to 4,000 miles.

It’s only recently, after ~130k miles that it began using any noticeable amount. Currently, it’s at near the 140k range. It’s a 2003 and still has the precats (too lazy to gut them and haven’t checked them in a while) + it’s the wife’s car and she drives the crap out of it. She likes to start it in the morning, then immediately hit the gas pedal. It’s also an SMT and never had the slightest problem other than a clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I tried a BG product years ago when my spyder had 60k on the engine and was using more oil than I liked. I did it a few times in a row and it reduced the oil usage for a long time. At 120k it was using more oil than I liked so I replaced the engine with a brand new one :) I haven't used measurable oil in the last 55k and only check the level before a change now :)

Try it but follow directions
You beat me to posting!
That is what I’m hoping for.
 

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My thinking is there might be a point when excessive oil consumption can’t be corrected so I wanted to be a little proactive.

The car is using a little over a quart in an extended interval of 8,000 miles so it’s not too bad yet and can probably be improved just by reducing the interval to 4,000 miles.

It’s only recently, after ~130k miles that it began using any noticeable amount. Currently, it’s at near the 140k range. It’s a 2003 and still has the precats (too lazy to gut them and haven’t checked them in a while) + it’s the wife’s car and she drives the crap out of it. She likes to start it in the morning, then immediately hit the gas pedal. It’s also an SMT and never had the slightest problem other than a clutch.
[/QUOT
My thinking is there might be a point when excessive oil consumption can’t be corrected so I wanted to be a little proactive.

The car is using a little over a quart in an extended interval of 8,000 miles so it’s not too bad yet and can probably be improved just by reducing the interval to 4,000 miles.

It’s only recently, after ~130k miles that it began using any noticeable amount. Currently, it’s at near the 140k range. It’s a 2003 and still has the precats (too lazy to gut them and haven’t checked them in a while) + it’s the wife’s car and she drives the crap out of it. She likes to start it in the morning, then immediately hit the gas pedal. It’s also an SMT and never had the slightest problem other than a clutch.
A quart every 8k is not bad. When you said it was a oil burner with stuck rings I thought you meant a real oil burner with stuck rings. My "jdm" piece of crap was burning a quart every 150 miles ! Now that's stuck rings.
Id strongly suggest you try changing my oil change intervals to like 2.5 to 3k. And you may burn close to zero oil by the third change. Skip the snake oil.
I'd use the mobile1 in everthing but my spyder. In my spyder I use Castrol edge because its supposed to have better thermal breakdown limits. Been good for me. I believe the hype. I'd would also highly suggest sticking to the factory recommended oil viscosity.
The 4.7 V8 in my 4runner is very easy on oil I go up to 6k between changes. My 93 Toyota v6 gets 3k oil change as does the triton v10 in my motor home. Spyder gets oil change by 2.5k religiously. Usually by 2k.
My 2 cent which is likely not worth a penny. But I'd try the more frequent changes as oil is cheap. So is most snake oil but.... And pricy snake oil is no better. Likely worse. Your engine was designed to be lubricated by high quailty engine oil not solvents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A quart every 8k is not bad. When you said it was a oil burner with stuck rings I thought you meant a real oil burner with stuck rings. My "jdm" piece of crap was burning a quart every 150 miles ! Now that's stuck rings.
Id strongly suggest you try changing my oil change intervals to like 2.5 to 3k. And you may burn close to zero oil by the third change. Skip the snake oil.
I'd use the mobile1 in everthing but my spyder. In my spyder I use Castrol edge because its supposed to have better thermal breakdown limits. Been good for me. I believe the hype. I'd would also highly suggest sticking to the factory recommended oil viscosity.
The 4.7 V8 in my 4runner is very easy on oil I go up to 6k between changes. My 93 Toyota v6 gets 3k oil change as does the triton v10 in my motor home. Spyder gets oil change by 2.5k religiously. Usually by 2k.
My 2 cent which is likely not worth a penny. But I'd try the more frequent changes as oil is cheap. So is most snake oil but.... And pricy snake oil is no better. Likely worse. Your engine was designed to be lubricated by high quailty engine oil not solvents.
I appreciate the thought that went into that. It looks like we’re both experimenters.

I’m definitely going to reduce the interval for a while to see what happens. I especially liked your last statement, about being designed/lubricated with oil and not solvents, as it makes sense and answers my question about harm. The instructions on the bottle does say to run only 5 minutes with it and only at idle and no load; I’m guessing this is the reason why.
I probably wouldn’t be as eager to experiment if it were my car (newer with half the mileage) and I didn’t have another engine laying around from my first MR2 that my wife wrecked.

I can’t even imagine using a quart every 150 miles! That’s like driving a 2 stroke or worse. People must have thought you were running a diesel with all the smoke?

The part I dislike is having to check the oil all the time. It’s great when you don’t have to check it between oil changes. It’s a pain when it just needs a little bit added. Walmart has that tube thing that goes on the end of a quart bottle with a cap so a little can be added, and not spill it all over, then put the cap back on and store it this way.
 

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My oil change interval is 1/2 of yours or 4,000 miles. I hear many times of people going twice that, I don't. I use either Castrol or Mobile One, 5w40 or 0w40. Hot oil pressure at idle is 12 psi and 53 psi at 3,000 rpm.

One qt every 1k is pretty bad IMHO. At 1 qt per 150 miles the whole back of the car must be grime black.

There isn't nearly as much load on an engine at idle. Every morning after the oil has had 12 hrs to drain to the pan it gets started at a high idle and rich mixture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wait a minute, a 2003 should not burn any oil if it was made after 8/2002.

If I’m correct that’s when they started to put in the redesign 1ZZ


correct me if I’m wrong
I think you’re correct but that doesn’t mean that the new design will never burn any oil. I would think most will use some oil at higher mileages. My longer intervals are probably a factor as well.
It would be interesting to see if people could post their mileages, intervals, and amount of oil used. On my wife’s car, with the 8k interval, it seems very little oil is used up to ~5k miles then starts using considerably more. Most people change their oil at ~ 3k miles and so probably wouldn’t notice much change. Something else to consider is how hard the car is driven. It might be just as important to judge by the color of the oil as it is the mileage or combine the two for oil changes. This of course, wouldn’t work for my diesel as the oil turns black soon after changing it.
 

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We have 2 Spyders and change oil at 3,000 mile intervals, mainly because we don't put on many miles and that that works out to about yearly. We run Mobile 1 FS (Euro) 0w-40 in both. We check the oil level often, and never let the oil below 1/2 so getting a good read on usage is difficult.

The 2002 has 110,000 miles, a small oil leak, and has used 1/2 qt roughly every 2,000 miles for the last 40,000 miles. The 2002 had unknown oil for the first 70,000 miles. It hasn't changed much over the miles except when the cam chain tensioner had a leak. Our 2003 has 140,000 miles and, at most, may use about 1/4 qt between changes. The 2003 has only ever had synthetic oil from new.

We had a 2012 Subaru Impreza that used very little oil between 5,000 changes when driven normally to work, but used up to a qt in 800 miles when driven hard, such as one trip in the mountains. Top it off, back to easy driving, and it used no oil. Of course, Subaru replaced a lot of 2012 engines due to weak oil rings and the 0w-20 oil they used. We just sold the car instead

Incidentally, we once tried the Castrol Euro 5w-30 that was touted by many on the forum on a couple cars, but oil consumption went up noticeably after some miles were put on the cars.
 

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I appreciate the thought that went into that. It looks like we’re both experimenters.

I’m definitely going to reduce the interval for a while to see what happens. I especially liked your last statement, about being designed/lubricated with oil and not solvents, as it makes sense and answers my question about harm. The instructions on the bottle does say to run only 5 minutes with it and only at idle and no load; I’m guessing this is the reason why.
I probably wouldn’t be as eager to experiment if it were my car (newer with half the mileage) and I didn’t have another engine laying around from my first MR2 that my wife wrecked.

I can’t even imagine using a quart every 150 miles! That’s like driving a 2 stroke or worse. People must have thought you were running a diesel with all the smoke?

The part I dislike is having to check the oil all the time. It’s great when you don’t have to check it between oil changes. It’s a pain when it just needs a little bit added. Walmart has that tube thing that goes on the end of a quart bottle with a cap so a little can be added, and not spill it all over, then put the cap back on and store it this way.
Again 1qt per 8k is almost nothing. I'd advoid adding small amounts of oil and wait until it gets about half a quart low. Many engine "throw off" the top 1/4 to 1/2 court of oil and then stop using oil.
Remember on a spyder or 1zz motor 1/2 a quart low is about a third of the way down not 1/2 way. The distance between the 2 marks is about 1.25 quarts I believe. I'm sure someome will give a more exact number on that. I recall a member used of offer stickers for your engine compartment to translate the readings. Maybe they're still available.
But if you are burning or using 1qt of oil per 8k try letting it drop about 1/2 a quart ( which should be past the change interval) before adding or topping off. This won't hurt a thing especially if you have a post 03 engine. If it starts going down lower faster as the level drop you have an issue. If it shows down and stops at about 1/4 qt you're golden.
Remember Toyota added 1/2 (dipstick mod) quart to the sump capicaty post engineering because of the crappy flow design through the early piston which lead to stuck rings.
And by and by you don't seem to have a stuck ring problem at all. Not at that low rate of consumption. How fuzzy is your exhaust pipe? Inside I mean.
Oil change intervals? I treat my spyder like I used to treat my motorcycles they both rev high and run on the hot side. Which is hard on oil. Any oil forget what it says on the container but rather use common sense.
There's a Toyota company guy that sometimes follows this site I don't know if he'd care to jump in on this one. I love it he did. For some reason I doubt he will. Back about 35 years ago when Toyota started to suggest longer oil change intervals (7 to 10k I believe) under normal driving conditions there were many gunked up engines, law suits and settlements.
Read your owners guide carefully. Normal condition are like a steady 55 mph on flat roads at 75 degrees and a non dusty (?) environment....
I've heard from more than one source there is a constant battle at Toyota between engineering and advertising over the suggested intervals.
 
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Forgot to mention. I've found that to get an accurate dipstick reading on a Spyder 1ZZ I need to park overnight on a flat surface and pull the dipstick out once and read it. That's your correct current level. At the gas station or sitting half an hour doesn't seem to cut it on these things. Pushing in and out you'll collect and lose oil from the bends in the tube.
 
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Again 1qt per 8k is almost nothing. I'd advoid adding small amounts of oil and wait until it gets about half a quart low. Many engine "throw off" the top 1/4 to 1/2 court of oil and then stop using oil.
Remember on a spyder or 1zz motor 1/2 a quart low is about a third of the way down not 1/2 way. The distance between the 2 marks is about 1.25 quarts I believe. I'm sure someome will give a more exact number on that. I recall a member used of offer stickers for your engine compartment to translate the readings. Maybe they're still available.
But if you are burning or using 1qt of oil per 8k try letting it drop about 1/2 a quart ( which should be past the change interval) before adding or topping off. This won't hurt a thing especially if you have a post 03 engine. If it starts going down lower faster as the level drop you have an issue. If it shows down and stops at about 1/4 qt you're golden.
Remember Toyota added 1/2 (dipstick mod) quart to the sump capicaty post engineering because of the crappy flow design through the early piston which lead to stuck rings.
And by and by you don't seem to have a stuck ring problem at all. Not at that low rate of consumption. How fuzzy is your exhaust pipe? Inside I mean.
Oil change intervals? I treat my spyder like I used to treat my motorcycles they both rev high and run on the hot side. Which is hard on oil. Any oil forget what it says on the container but rather use common sense.
There's a Toyota company guy that sometimes follows this site I don't know if he'd care to jump in on this one. I love it he did. For some reason I doubt he will. Back about 35 years ago when Toyota started to suggest longer oil change intervals (7 to 10k I believe) under normal driving conditions there were many gunked up engines, law suits and settlements.
Read your owners guide carefully. Normal condition are like a steady 55 mph on flat roads at 75 degrees and a non dusty (?) environment....
I've heard from more than one source there is a constant battle at Toyota between engineering and advertising over the suggested intervals.

"Remember Toyota added 1/2 (dipstick mod) quart to the sump capicaty post engineering because of the crappy flow design through the early piston which lead to stuck rings.
And by and by you don't seem to have a stuck ring problem at all. Not at that low rate of consumption. "
The technical bulletin posted in this forum mentions that this did NOT happen to the MR2 1ZZ engine but all others. I have never had that much of an issue reading the dipstick even after an oil change.
 
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I'm a simple guy....any amount of oil consumption that makes me need to add more in between changes is what I consider 'high'. It doesn't make sense to me how an oil change interval within the objective effective range for a given oil would make a difference in oil consumption...am I missing something there?
 
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