[KIWI]

A few of you might remember me posting about this around 3 months ago, well the motor is still eating oil.
it is eating slightly less oil on mobil 1 5W-30, i used to use castrol edge 5W-30, Mobil 1 dissappears at 1 quart every 1900 miles, the castrol dissappears at 1 quart every 1500 miles.
My motors compression figures are fine (186 on all 4 cylinders) toyota has told me 190 is what a new 03+ 1zz-fe block has (Australian spec anyway).
I had them connect one of there techstream pcs to the car and they told me it was all running within spec
The only smoke there is that comes from the tail pipe is first start up of the day and only if its really cold, on a nice warm day there is no smoke at all, also this is clearish smoke the type all cars make on a really cold morning whilst they are warming up.
Some history on the motor might help this time.
1) Last time i didn't mention this but i used to take the car to the local racetrack for a few hot laps at
least one a week, so the motor has sorta had a hard life as it did see the redline often
2) The motor currently has around the 75000 miles mark, when i brought it, it had 35000 miles on the clock
3) The oil has always been changed at the 2800-3000 miles mark, toyota has told me that i should actually change it at 6000miles interval and because i change it too often that this may be the cause of my excessive oil consumtion, Is this true?
4) the motor is from a 04 are the piston rings still suseptable to sticking like the older motors
Now a little bit of advice i'd like some help on is, ive been told to got to a thicker oil by alot of mechanics ive taken it to as the 5W-30 grade oil is now too thin for the motor as it has worn at a faster rate because of the hard life it had.
i have brought Penrite 10W-40 Everyday Full Synthetic to try as my new oil any one know if this oil is good? I many got this as i could not find a single Full Synthetic 10W-30.
I e-mailed Penrite and they have confirmed that their 10W-40 is compadible with motors needing 10W-30 oil

Im currently on the path to get it rebuilt as i cannot find a decent 1zz block in good order
most of the parts i'm buying to get it rebuilt are going to be OEM, except the Valve train and pistons, these are going to be crower stage 1 and MWR OEM quality pistons with the +0.5 bore, currently undecided with the valves, valve springs and retainers most likely am gonna get OEM on those too
All gaskets and seals are going to be replaced with OEM also
Anyone got some input on this? finding a good 1zz block in australia is hard, finding a mr2 one is like stumbling on a diamond in the middle of a shopping centre.
A 2zz is out of the question NO manual spyders in Australia, so the transmission is also like above stated motor
Any help/advice will be a great help

 

[cyclehead]

Chevy engines like to lose oil past the valve stem seals. I saw a how-to procedure for replacing them on the 1zz engine on spyderchat somewhere. I'm not sure how to test them, but smoke at cold start up is one indicator (not condensation, like you see on a cold morning).

 

[Die$eL]

High compression motors and rev happy motors like the 2zz and 4age do take oil. its normal. not 100% sure on the 1zz but the consumption does not seem too high

the smoke does sound like valve stem seals. check if it does it when warm if you idle for extended periods then take off

I'm busy rebuilding my 1zz. using wiseco pistons with mwr rods and valves.

about changing oil too often being bad for the motor, that is a first i hear of.... :huh:

 

[Cap Weir]

A PFC is posable on an SMT.. here is one post.. http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?51370-SMT-1ZZ-With-PFC&p=832909#post832909

If a PFC is posable, a 2ZZ is posable also.. Just need to have the Latest Software on the TCU, and the Rev Limit for the 1ZZ can be exceeded.. http://spyderchat.com/forums/showth...a-1zz-smt-turbo-clutch-sliping.&highlight=SMT and here.. http://spyderchat.com/forums/showth...lled-on-1zz-smt-clutch-slipping&highlight=SMT

Engines are to be used.. poking at the Rev Limiter a few times will not hurt it.. My '01 1ZZ was using a Qt of oil every 8K miles when I first got it.. and for my Drive, I change the Oil every 15 to 20 K miles .. ( 3 to 4 Months for me ).. My compression started out >200 PSI.. and now at 228K Miles on the Same Motor, my Compression is just at 200, and using 1Qt per 1K Mile.. still changing at 15 K Miles.. but a few Qt's are now added between Changes..

If you must Rebuild, then do.. not a real good track record on rebuilds.. but you might want to check into the PFC/2ZZ Route.. The PFC is wired like a Piggyback to the Engine ECU.. and the Engine ECU controls the Shift, and talks to the Trans Computer..

Cap

 

[Ken Branch]

If you`re using synthetic on a higher mileage engine it will burn more oil. I have 210 000 km on my Matrix (1zz FE engine), use oil for high mileage cars (castrol GTX high mileage oil) and still don`t have to add oil in between oil changes (every 8000 km) Can`t really tell on my MR2 as I only drive 3000 miles a summer and change the oil for storage. Changing the oil often shouldn`t affect anything in my opinion.

 

[T-bone]

000000000

 

[SDSUsnowboards]

I do not think losing 1 quart every 1,500 or 2,000 miles is very bad, especially if you are seeing the redline often. Hitting the redline is not some magic event that destroys motors, but you are spinning the internals faster as usual, so minute for minute you are causing more wear and oil consumption.

At just under 100,000 miles my 1zz burned about 1 quart, or less, every change interval, which was 8,000 miles, give or take 1,000 miles. It saw mostly highway. Now I only race it. I'll run about 1 hour and 20 minutes of wide open throttle, bouncing off the redline per event. After 2 events (3 hours) it burns half a quart of oil.

So, I think your motor is burning oil at about what one might expect, considering your motor sees track use.

 

[MikeV]

1qt/1000 miles is considered normal by most car company standards.

Well, 1qt/1000 miles is usually the 'break point' where a car manufacture will honor a warranty.... I wouldn't consider it normal.

But... a qt every 1500-1900 miles isn't terrible. KIWI - how far does your car get driven? If you use it for mostly short trips and are down a quart at 1500 miles, it's in trouble. If it's mostly "long" drives (up to temperature for, say, 10 miles or more), you're just burning a little more than average and you shouldn't worry about it.

[opinion]Any car that is at the 'full" mark at an oil change needs to be driven more.... it's still using oil, just not burning off the moisture and combustion byproducts that get mixed in. [/opinion]

 

[dogbreath]

Your consumption is really not bad.

There is an easy test for valve guides. At normal operating temperatures, coast down a long hill with the car in gear and the clutch out. Have an assistant follow you. At the bottom of the hill, nail it. If the assistant sees a puff of smoke, it's valve guides.

 

[seantc]

Post Deleted

 

[KIWI]

Thanks for all the info fellas, i tried the idea of letting the car idle for a while (5 minutes) once it was up to temp after taking it for a drive, no smoke when i was idling or when i gave it a quick rev,
i'm gonna try the let it coast down a hill and then gun it idea later this week

Thanks Cap for those links on the SMT with a power FC, i might just go down that path if i can get my hands on a 2zz

For those who asked the car sees 4K+ rpm somewhat often i generally shift it at 3.5K+ rpm and it is rarely driven for short trips, i know hitting the red line doesn't hurt the car and it will accelerate engine wear but i honestly didn't expect it to go this quick

One question for cap or really anyone, how do these cars limit the rpm, two of my mates who own spyders both are pre facelift (01 and a 02) both thier cars are limited via a fuel cutout system that cuts at 6800rpm and will not turn off till the car is down to 6000rpm
mine is limited by a ignition retarding system instead and used to be limited to 6800rpm also but as i've modified it the limiter has moved to 7100rpm (all 3 were tested on a OBD-II reader, so i'm confident they are accurate)

 

[Cap Weir]

how do these cars limit the rpm, two of my mates who own spyders both are pre facelift (01 and a 02) both thier cars are limited via a fuel cutout system that cuts at 6800rpm and will not turn off till the car is down to 6000rpm

That is the way Toyota Limits Engine RPM.

mine is limited by a ignition retarding system instead and used to be limited to 6800rpm also but as i've modified it the limiter has moved to 7100rpm (all 3 were tested on a OBD-II reader, so i'm confident they are accurate)

Not sure how this happened.. If you have a SMT Spyder, then it will be a Fuel Cut Limit RPM.. EXACTLY what did you add to get the Fuel Cut to 7100.. you have my attention on this..

Cap

 

[KIWI]

Dunno what caused it to increase its rpm limiter, but I did notice it went higher after I cleared a code using a palmer performance OBD-II reader, which somehow turned off my traction and stability control (which Im glad happened btw)

With a fuel cut out limiter my Mazda mx-3 would get to 7800rpm then it felt like the motor shut down and i couldn't do anything till the fuel cutout disactivated, is this how ours are meant to operate also?
Mine will go all the way to 7100rpm then hit the limiter and just bounce off it, the motor doesn't cut out, if anyone watches top gear my limited is very similar to what a BMW or mercy does when clarkson gets them to the limiter. It's a little had to explain but I'm sure mine is slightly different to a fuel cutout limiter like my previous cars had unless Toyota changed the way a fuel cutout works