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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I’ve started my v6 swap and will be documenting as much as I can. My car is a 2000 spyder, the engine is a Toyota Sienna 1mzfe, the transmission is from a celica gt. Will update project as I get along for now here is the progress. Got the engine and transmission bolted up, put it in the hole, currently making the mounts. Will post what progress I make. This is going to be a budget diy build in a carport in the middle of winter in the Northeast, so there’s going to be a lot of trial and error and learning as I go along. I’m not a professional shop, just a kid with some free time, an internet connection and some basic tools. I’m also recording my progress and will have up YouTube video series, after I finish the build. Hoping to have it running and driving around by May 2019.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Getting the engine to align well took quite some time. Got the axles fitted well, I’m using my original 1zz axles. I’m using 3/16 steel sheets for material for the mounts. I’m using a combination of mk2 mr2, mk3 mr2, and 97-01 Camry mounts, to combine and cut what I need.
 

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There was a 1MZ converted MR-S for sale within the last month and it looked really appealing. Much more appealing to me than a 2ZZ/K Swap or 1ZZ turbo. I look forward to seeing more about your build!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The lh mount is made from 3/16 steel, very basic just cut n weld, It needs to be trimmed down and made to look pretty and I need a different bolt but it does the job. I cut the subframe and used some metal from the frame to weld in place that I had to remove since I won’t be using that part. Again, not pretty but holds well. The rear mount on the subframe I had to cut out the mounting part and flip it around to get it to fit nicely, pretty simple. The mount is from the mk3. I know I’m gonna get a lot of hate but I’m using a pretty cheap mig welder, it may not be proper, but I want to show that you don’t need a shop or fancy tools, and lots of cash to create something cool. Sent out the flywheel to be modified to fit the v6 crank, I could of gotten one that fitted nicely however that’s $250-300. I used a 5sfe flywheel that I picked up for $40 and the shops charging me $40 to extend the holes. I’ve seen it done, and from what I’ve heard it works well, no need to spend more money than necessary. More to come
 

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...I’m using a combination of mk2 mr2, mk3 mr2, and 97-01 Camry mounts, to combine and cut what I need.
That’s how my 2GR swap was done also. Mix of MKII and MKIII engine mounts, home welding etc. USPSPRO built mine in his garage at home.
Keep an eye on your crossmember notchout. Mine developed cracks after a few 10K miles. I welded up a box beam to the aft side of the crossmember to restore some of the cross-section to the beam. No problems since.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
...I’m using a combination of mk2 mr2, mk3 mr2, and 97-01 Camry mounts, to combine and cut what I need.
That’s how my 2GR swap was done also. Mix of MKII and MKIII engine mounts, home welding etc. USPSPRO built mine in his garage at home.
Keep an eye on your crossmember notchout. Mine developed cracks after a few 10K miles. I welded up a box beam to the aft side of the crossmember to restore some of the cross-section to the beam. No problems since.
2gr is a different animal if this swap goes well, I’d want to try it. The difficulty I’m facing right now is figuring out the fuel system. I know that the spyder has the fuel pressure regulator in the tank (#2 in the last pic), however the 1mz/3mz and the 2gr have it out by the fuel rail. I’m not sure how to make that work, I would really like to keep it in the tank, but I’m afraid I might have to block it off in the tank (monkeyracing sells a plug for $15) and run and external fpr and a return line back in the tank. I bought a set of 3mz fuel rails because it has the same quick connect hose as the spyder, the 1mz has a banjo style connection. According to a parts diagram the 3mz and 1mz fuel rail are the same part numbers/injectors and all. Any help here? I
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got the right side mount done, I integrated the fender piece off the mk3 mount. On the engine, it’s a mk2 mount bolted to the 1mz engine mount. I made a hole through and used nuts to secure it, wish I could of welded but it’s aluminum. It had a slight bend due to the bump in the frame rail so that was a little difficult to make fit right
 

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Wow.
Years ago in a bicycle road race crash my brand new bike got a angled crimp in the top tube. I spoke with the builder. He told me to smooth out the angle in the dent because the forces would not be focused on a point. Carrying that thought forward, it seems to me that cutting then welding the cross member in sharp angles would possibly create a stress point greater than if the cut out were rounded out and thereby not focusing stress. Could this be why the cross member cracked in the one post and would that then be a potential failure point in this build. I could be completely wrong on this, just one of those thoughts that go through my remaining brain cells.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey man, great progress!
Just as an FYI - you know can buy the engine mounts for the swap from woodsports?
Yes, I’ve spoken with Paul, he only is offering the passenger and driver side mounts. It’s not a complete kit, and for the money, it’s a better value if I make them myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow.
Years ago in a bicycle road race crash my brand new bike got a angled crimp in the top tube. I spoke with the builder. He told me to smooth out the angle in the dent because the forces would not be focused on a point. Carrying that thought forward, it seems to me that cutting then welding the cross member in sharp angles would possibly create a stress point greater than if the cut out were rounded out and thereby not focusing stress. Could this be why the cross member cracked in the one post and would that then be a potential failure point in this build. I could be completely wrong on this, just one of those thoughts that go through my remaining brain cells.
Cutting the rear crossmember is necessary but it should be ok, from the swaps I’ve seen, it’s part of every build. If anything I’ll figure out a different way to modify it. I guess we’ll see when it gets some driving time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here’s the axle carrier bracket done. Side note I started making my own headers. Stay tuned for that
 

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Wow.
Years ago in a bicycle road race crash my brand new bike got a angled crimp in the top tube. I spoke with the builder. He told me to smooth out the angle in the dent because the forces would not be focused on a point. Carrying that thought forward, it seems to me that cutting then welding the cross member in sharp angles would possibly create a stress point greater than if the cut out were rounded out and thereby not focusing stress. Could this be why the cross member cracked in the one post and would that then be a potential failure point in this build. I could be completely wrong on this, just one of those thoughts that go through my remaining brain cells.
Here's how I beefed up the "trimmed" crossmember on the 2GR swap. It was starting to crack at the sharp corners. No problems after adding this box beam on the aft side of the crossmember...



You can see it was pretty thin before adding the box!

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wow.
Years ago in a bicycle road race crash my brand new bike got a angled crimp in the top tube. I spoke with the builder. He told me to smooth out the angle in the dent because the forces would not be focused on a point. Carrying that thought forward, it seems to me that cutting then welding the cross member in sharp angles would possibly create a stress point greater than if the cut out were rounded out and thereby not focusing stress. Could this be why the cross member cracked in the one post and would that then be a potential failure point in this build. I could be completely wrong on this, just one of those thoughts that go through my remaining brain cells.
Here's how I beefed up the "trimmed" crossmember on the 2GR swap. It was starting to crack at the sharp corners. No problems after adding this box beam on the aft side of the crossmember...



You can see it was pretty thin before adding the box!

You removed quite a lot of the original subframe, I think I should be ok, if I do start experiencing cracks I will add material. Thank you for the pictures, definitely helps everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A little update, I’m using a ball joint arm piece from an mk3 c60 trans, here’s the part number below. I extended it and I used it In similar manner as the c60. The transmission as a reminder again is from a 94-99 celica gt, s54. The whole linkage system had to be custom made to work. A bit of trial and error, had to redo it a couple times to get it to shift correctly. I made the cable mounts off the transmission mount, I will have to cut it and redo them once engine is out of the car to make it look nicer but it’s strong and it serves the purpose to modify the in cabin shifter assembly. I’ll have videos of everything once I put my part 2 video up. This whole assembly costed me like $35 to make. Some of you may notice I have solid shifter bushings to cut as much slack as possible. Project continues!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It was 5 degrees out and working inside a car port is terrible weather. So today I started my headlight retrofit. I’m using some 00-05 Mitsubishi Eclipse halo headlights, trimmed the insides and using a plastic welder to piece everything inside the mr2 housing. I’ll eventually make a diy video of it but it’s fairly straight forward.
 

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