MR2 SpyderChat banner

61 - 80 of 92 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Really awesome build you have started here! I bought some KW V3 coilovers for mine and had no clue about the S3 coils and am very tempted to switch over so I'll be curious what you think of them!

Question about your C60 with LSD though! I have been wanting to do this as well but I am having troubles finding one that has the confirmed LSD. Is there a way to tell between the -02A and -02B or did you add the LSD later?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
Thanks, nice to know people appreciate it. I build for myself and for the documentation of work, but also I get good tips from others threads, and I hope that people can get good tips from mine...

I actually purchased a tranny that had a cracked case and bad 3rd in order to extract the LSD that was in it and had a shop install it... sadly they did something wrong and Im getting a leak from the tranny now that needs to be addressed. One of the teething issues of dramatically changing the car around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
“Should be easy” ... famous last words...

After getting the car aligned, Robert at Cheworks mentioned the car pulls on hard braking. I had already planned on putting new pads and fresh fluid so this comment meant this task was moving to the top of the list. A few days later, I have freshly turned rotors and a set of the OEM semi-metallic pads. The dealer had the option For cheaper ceramic pads, but I figured these were the higher quality part. We’ll see... anyways, swapping pads and rotors should be easy right?... lol



Well, starting at the rear passenger side, I couldn’t get the piston on the caliper to depress with my little piston pusher tool. Realized what was stopping me and sadly the only tool I have for this job wasn’t working...

Wrong tool for this job.


The job that needs the right tool.


Not wanting to quit, I figured I could at least get the front knocked out. Passenger front went smoothly!... small victory. Moving in to the Driver front and all was going relatively smoothly until the stupid retaining clip got caught up and mangled a bit. A bit of rage motivation made things worse and after completing the install there was a dragging sound that is likely the clip, so I’ll have to pull it all apart again tomorrow when I have more time.

Today I had about an hour of time after going to Vatozone to rent the Caliper tool. Aka the right tool for the job. The goal was simple, use the tool to finish the rear calipers, and if time allows, get that front knocked out... well, even with the correct tool (and yes, the cap is off the brake reservoir), the Rear passenger side caliper did not want to move at all... could this be the source of the pulling?... well, let’s see what the driverside does... It’s also not moving.

The right tool, still not doing the job.


Reached out to Mico, who I’m sure has done brakes and he gives me the bad news. Calipers are likely toast, and I might as well just get two news ones now. Great...

Another trip to Vatozone and placed the order on some new calipers with a lifetime warranty. ..

They’ll be here Thursday and maybe I’ll wrap up this job... sh!t I shouldn’t have said that...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Yes, I have been wanting to document my progress just in the event it will help someone but haven't found the time.

However, I feel you as I am going through this EXACT thing right now!! I noticed that my drivers side rear pad was dragging so I thought it will be a great time to get new pads and rotors and get this "easy upgrade" out of the way before AutoX at the end of the month. I tried the same tool you used there and even shot compressed air in the back and the piston didn't budge...

78623


78624


After admitting defeat, I bought two new rear calipers that just arrived so I'll throw a quick coat of red paint and hopefully can get the car back together after nearly a month on stands😣

Although, I am still waiting on my G-loc R6 pads that I ordered at the beginning of the month so it's not like I could go anywhere anyway...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
Nice!! you going hard on this project. Wish I could go like that on mine
Thanks, this is my only car at the moment and I need it to work lol

Luckily Im working from home for the foreseeable future so that part is fine, but its annoying having to try and plan other stuff around my wife since she actually has a running, driving car haha

edit: @Char-Fen I was a bit shocked that the pistons were locked up, Ive been playing with E30s (BMWs from 84-93) and they rarely completely lock out, and are easily rebuilt if there are issues like this, but not in this case...

Oh well, glad to get this out of the way!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
My thoughts exactly! Common Toyota lol!

Sucks to hear about your tranny.. that's the mod I want to do the most myself but my lack of transmission knowledge keeps preventing me from pulling the trigger.

GLWB!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
Luckily the tranny shop is standing behind their work. Taking it to them on Monday to have them swap out the axle seals as thats where it appears to be leaking from. Fingers crossed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Well, the last week has been fun. I’m still dealing with brakes that don’t feel 100%. I have had friends help me bleed the brakes and even bought a tool so I can bleed it on my own. It’s getting better but still not where I want it. Also, the e-brake needs to be adjusted too

While staring at the exposed shifter / e-brake area I remembered that I still had some MonkeyWrench Racing shifter base bushings. Pulled the old stuff out, lined it all up and took a pic



After all that I took it out for some hooning, and I tell you, when you hit the 3->4 shift right and keep it in lift, hot dog... she’s just about ready for a canyon run. We’ll see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Tried to adjust the ebrake and I don’t know what’s happening. Found a write-up and got confused with step 2 (b) ...”adjusting the stopper nut until the left &right parking brake crank touches the stopper pin”

Looks like they are already at the stopper pin...





here’s another angle on one side



Could really use some expertise here...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
Nobody knows how to work on the brakes?...

Anyways, decided to start preparing the car for the hardtop. It’s hard to see the lines but they are there.

Can you see it?


drilled some holes to have a nice round edge


And the finished product


One step closer to that sexy hardtop being “unboxed”...

One other thing I got done was an easy OEM headunit upgrade, got the T1809 from a member here. A little bummed that the iPod cable connector was cracked but it looks like it might work. This was easy leash and I used the opportunity to clean up the parts. Previous must’ve had the hairiest, shaggy dog because there’s dog hair absolutely everywhere... anyways a before and after. I’m happy . Totally worth it



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Figured today was the best time to get down and do it. Got to work early and it mostly went fine. Had a frustrating moment with the side posts, but eventually got it done. Grinding down the welded bolt went just fine but larger pivot point that bolts to the car eluded me. I hadn’t read anything about it and couldn’t get ahold of anyone who could help. Said screw it and busted out the cutting wheel and went to town. Didn’t take many pics of the work, basically a before and after. Enjoy.

UnBoXiNg ThE HaRdToP OMG!..





Pretty happy it’s how it looks now.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Nobody knows how to work on the brakes?...
Been forever since I adjusted my parking brake but as I remember it I adjusted that nut until the parking brake was fully engaged in approx 8 clicks of pulling it up. The BGB has the correct # of clicks so I would double check that. I didn’t really worry about much else. If you’re worried the brake is applied even with the handbrake lever all the way down you could always jack up the rear & turn the wheels by hand to confirm there is no engagement in the ‘off’ position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
The parking brakes are adjusted in the cockpit as shown in the shop manual, not at the cable-ends by the rear brakes. You have to remove the center console.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
Yea I adjusted the double nut, still feels weak. My buddy convinced me to buy new front calipers and the master also to try and fix this soft pedal issue... it better as I hate throwing parts at a problem and crossing my fingers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Are your cables new or old? Old cables might just be stretched a bit. As far as soft pedal feel, have you completely flushed your brake fluid already? Pads shouldn’t really change a soft pedal feel unless you’re running on pad-less backing plates or your rotors are worn too thin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
Cables are still the old ones.

The brakes were firm, but unbalanced and the ebrake worked prior to the pad change. However during the pad change it was discovered that the rear calipers were in need of replacement, so once those were also replaced I have flushed the fluid at least 10x, a few with the help of friends pumping the pedal and a half dozen times with a brake bleeder.

My friend wanted me to throw the whole package at the brakes (swap all 4 calipers, the master and SS lines) and Ive purchased basically all of that now, short of the SS lines because those were only available from MWR.

The front calipers arrive today, I will swap those out and do a full bleed again. The master cylinder wont arrive for a few days so we'll see if these front calipers will be the solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
I’m not sure of the benefit of swapping the calipers if nothing is wrong with them. Regardless, it seems you’re halfway down that rabbit hole now. It sounds like all you have done so far is swap the rear calipers, drop in new pads, & bleed the rear brake lines. Have you done a complete flush of all brake lines going from the LR —>RR—>LF—>RF corners? I would be inclined to say that your cables are worn/stretched and that you need new ones but if they were working, then you disconnected them to service the rear brakes & calipers...I doubt the issue could be anything other than as a result of what you did. Did you clamp or plug
The brake lines to mitigate fluid loss when you swapped the calipers? At any time did the master cylinder run dry? I’ve followed your thread and you are clearly mechanically capable so I hope you realize I only mean to be constructive with my questions/comments.

That being said...I would think a soft pedal feel after what you have done should be due to air in the lines. This wouldn’t have any effect on the parking brake function...which admittedly muddies the water a bit, however when function changes after disassembly/reassembly I would start my troubleshooting by checking every bolt/clip that was taken apart, especially if a full flush in the correct order has been carried out. If the master was allowed to run dry a complete flush will be much harder to achieve.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2mAn

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
Not taking any offense, I often say when things go wrong after doing work its always something stupid.

Im definitely down the rabbit hole now, I didnt want to buy anything until the brakes were working right and Im definitely inclined to believe its something stupid, like air still in the line. However after bleeding the brakes (in the correct order) its tough to believe that air is still in there.

I didnt clamp the lines, something I definitely should've done. I didn't let the reservoir run dry ever though, I bought a HUGE bottle of brake fluid so its always been topped off. I wish I had a better power bleeder system that forces the fluid from the master, but that setup I had disappeared a few moves ago. For now, I just got this handheld thing I bought from Harbor Freight. Needless to say, Im not too confident in it. I should see if theres a way to pressurize the system from the master, its designed to pressurize at the bleeder valve which my monkey brain doesnt understand how it works lol

I prefer old school methods, but that means Id need someone to sit with me and pump the brakes for who knows how long lol...

Im sure I will get it all figured out, just taking longer than I want to, and Im pretty impatient with stupid stuff like this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
With the brake lines disconnected & not clamped off I have a feeling more air than anticipated made its way up into the lines. I’m not sure if a traditional 2 person bleed would be able to purge all of the air at that point or if a vacuum bleeder is needed. Hopefully someone else can help with that. I can tell you that there is a way to perform a solo bleed that is it only as effective as a 2 person method, but quicker as well:

I made my own bleed tool (drilled a hole into the top of a Gatorade bottle & put a length of clear tubing into the bottle (snug fit at the top). When attaching the other end of the tubing to the bleed valves the trick is that the tube MUST go up vertically above the level of the bleed valve before turning back downwards into the bottle. As long as the tubing is secured tightly and makes this concave/rainbow shape from the bleed valve any air that is purged will rise above & not get sucked back into the brake line when pumping. A small amount of brake fluid will always remain in the vertical portion of the tubing, thus preventing air from refluxing. This allows you to crack the bleeder valve and pump multiple times without needing to twist the valve open/closed with each pump as you would in a traditional 2 person method. Of course you still need to keep an eye on the master cylinder but after filling to the top you can pump for quite a bit before you even come close to running dry. For $5 worth of tubing and the cost of a Gatorade it works as good as any speed bleeder I’ve seen....and you can put that saved money into brake fluid If you really want to assess whether you get any air out just leave your phone recording as you pump and you can look to see if air was evacuated.

I hope that makes sense, I can post pics if it doesn’t. The good part is you can quickly bleed the brakes solo, the bad part is there is no one to drink a few beers with. Best of luck, it’s always seems to be something simple related to disassembly/reassembly and it’s just a matter of when that “Aha” moment will finally come.
 
61 - 80 of 92 Posts
Top