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Okay Cap...engine oil pan and feed line are off, and lower rod cap is off of my first rod. How do I get to the top of the rod to replace the top bearing as well??? Please help as I am stuck at this point. Many many thanks. One more am I supposed to oil the rod bearings before I install them? Replacing the lower bearings is going great. I just need to know if I can replace the upper as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You have to replace the Upper.. as it is the One that takes the Push of the Piston..

When you take the Rod Cap off, the Crank Journal must be down.. and slightly to one Side Helps..

After the Cap is off, then Push the Rod / piston combo, back up inside the Engine a LITTLE.. this will give you access to the Upper half of the Bearing..

Yes it's tight.. Yes you must oil the Bearing Half.. Where it turns on the Crank.. Yes it must be Clean.. Yes it's a REAL PAIN IN THE ASS to do..

When you put the upper half into the Rod, it MUST be placed SQUARE back into the Rod Half.. and the Tab must be in the Grove.. I have used a Screwdriver to do this.. but I'm VERY careful when doing it.. DO NOT SCRATCH ANYTHING..

Did I mention it's a real Pain?.. Yes it can be Done.. And no I do not Small hands..

Cap
 

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Well, I have long fingers and smaller hands...and I am going for it! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Take them out and see.. one at a time..

No other way..

cap
 

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This is a great post Cap. Thank you for your write up.

Full disclosure: if I had not had previous dealings with you, AND, you had not done ~150k miles on your aluminum foil shims, I would have dismissed your work around as a hot rod trick that would not work on a super tight clearance Japanese motor. But I have learned something. Thank you for your wisdom!
 

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my car does the samething. it seems to have some decent power in the lower rpms but once i hit about 4k it just dies out and feels totally week. I am getting a code pointing to the MAF sensor. maybe it's time to replace it as i keep cleaning it the code eventually comes back. either that or my intake isn't sealing right and getting the MAF dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The Engines if this generation, like the Dimensions to be in Tenths of a Thousands.. That is 0.0001 The Aluminum foil is Usually 0.00025 The shims you have referenced at too thick for this application.

As I have mentioned, I was shown NewsPrint Paper.. Like Tissue Paper.. But it's hard to remove in tacked, so I changed to Aluminum Foil.. and I'm comfortable with it..

If you end up stacking shims, make sure they are different lengths.. ..You do not want a 'Big Step' where the end of the shim is..

Make sure NOT to get it too tight, by only looking at the Plastigauge numbers.. it MUST roll free.. so hard spots at all..

Cap
 

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I went ahead and dropped the pan. I pulled all rod caps and found the crank rod journals mirror finished. Maybe the rattle is somewhere else. I’m glad I did because I plastiguaged the rod under the pickup and am pretty sure it is almost maxed out. The squish was under .002 but not by much. The cap reads 2. I’m out of practice with Plastigauge because the band lifted off each side. I tried 3 times with this journal and got these pics...
 

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Cap numbers from pulley to flywheel are 2,3,2,2. Size 3 dropped off the journal and I caught it before hitting my face after unbolting it.
 

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I have installed three of the new bearing shells on the rods. They did take some shimming to reach just a bit under .0015 in. It is time consuming indeed. Even at size 3 the two of the rods needed a double lamination of shims. I tried one with three layers and it squished the plastiguage flatter that .001 in. I removed the last third shim and it went back to .0015 in. Before shimming each plastiguage was almost .002 in or on it with the size 3.

On the first bearing I tried, I accidentally either nicked the bearing/ journal or I assembled it with a grain of sand or something, I can feel it with my fingernail on the bearing and being honest I can feel it on the journal. I wonder what can be done on the journal? I think it is critical. I did not install the bearing. A shot of it is below.

On a teardown on another engine I rebuilt, it had an inch long metal shard imbedded in a main bearing shell. I showed an old machinist friend the trophy and he said it was likely assembled that way at the factory (Porsche) after lunch (beer). The journal was fine after 135K.

I did reassemble the rod with another shell but will take it off to kiss the journal if there is some trick to do it. I can't tell if my thumbnail is hitting a raised edge or going in a divot on either the boogered bearing shell or the journal.

I read about rod bolt measurements for no go. I don't have a precision mic. I must have taken the first cap on and off more than five times. The other caps at least 4 each. I'm leaning towards getting new bolts.


Shellnick.png

So I'm short a half shell and have to wait to button it back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The description of the 'Shimming Trials' sounds about right.. Takes time..

The bearing half.. I use a Pocket Knife Blade.. Drag it backwards over the surface to burnish the Dent Down.. The 'Dent' in the surface needs to be lower than the bearing surface..

HOWEVER.. the Journal.. I'm having a hard time thinking you actually dented it.. it's hard.. unless what you closed in the gap was big and hard..

I use an Arkansas Stone.. 800 to 1000 grit.. about the size of an Old Fashioned Pop Cycle Stick.. it's my Favorite Journal Fixer.. takes time..

Can you get another bearing Set?

Cap
 

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I remembered I have a dial caliper. I measured the width of the rod bolts on the last bearing in need of replacement. Before plastiguaging it 2 times I had a width of bolt dia. at .260 inches up and down the neck, after the plasitgauging with one shim and then 2 shims to get an oil clearance width of >.0015 I measured the bolt diameter in different places. Bolt diameter near the threads were under .260 at .256 on one of the two and .257 on the other. I'm getting new rod bolts. I r and r'd the other ones going through the plastiguage many more times than this last bearing.

One problem I'm having is finding parts. None are off the shelf in the Houston area (bearings). So I have to wait. I bought some off of Ebay before I got some in 4 days from MWR. The Ebay shells will get her April 23rd (from Australia). I'll put them up for sale here after they arrive.

I have the idea that 1ZZs could difficult to get parts for so I will plan better next time. MWR had the same shells (13041-22024-03) for just a dollar more, so I ordered some rod bolts (ARP) and a replacement shell set for the boogered up bearing.
 

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Just saw your post. I actually have Arkansas stones my dad gave me. He used to resharpen scalpels with them! I picked out whatever was in the pit of the bearing and used a polished dental instrument to do what you said over the bearing pit. I could not feel anything with my fingernail or tips going over it after that. I used this shell to get the oil clearance for the last bearing. Hopefully I will get parts from MWR Fri or Sat. but with all of the COVID-19 mess who knows. I put the pan back on with two nuts and marked the pan DO NOT RUN.

I had a couple of Porsches before this and I find the MR2 Spyder more intriguing in that there is no way you can easily replace any bearing on a Porsche flat 6. A valve adjustment on my SC took about the same time as the Spyder's rod bearing change and just as tedious. But one thing the Porsche was built for... dropping the engine. I could do it in less than an hour solo.
 

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Hey Cap,
Thanks for the advice and this great article. It's kind of fun. Uses techniques that are useful. Glad you documented it- so as not to be lost in time. Impressed.
 

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I used the Arkansas stone to only kiss that tiny spot on the journal. I could not feel a thing after going over it (eyes closed).

I got the #3 bearings in yesterday from MWR, with ARP rod bolts. I actually checked the oil clearances for each rod a final time. The spread was running wider than .0015 but not reaching .001in. The ARPs torque to 30 ft. lbs (NOT at the TOYOTA SPEC.). After checking the oil clearances, I used assembly lube on all bearing faces and torqued all the rods back down using the special ARP bolt lube. Reinstalled the oil pick up (80 inch lbs.) I used 90 min right stuff on the pan and bolted it up (80 inch lbs.). Replaced the oil filter. Torqued the oil drain plug (27 ft. lbs.)

I took out all of the spark plugs and disconnected each injector. Going to fill with oil (4.4 qts dry) and crank it. Then hook back up the ignition/fuel.

On problem I had with the Coil electronic rail is that the insulation wire shield rotted and I did not see that pieces went into the spark plug holes. When I removed a spark plug, a piece of insulation went into the combustion chamber. I see it. I've got to get it out. The insulation is thin and crumbly. I hope what I can't see in there will burn and not jam up a valve. Going to use a vac to try to suck it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Sounds like all is going 'Normal'.. including the Crumbled Pieces.. a few tricks to get the pieces..
1) Tape a ~1/4 fuel line to the Shop Vac Nozzle.. then use the shop vac to snag the piece, and lift it out of the Cylinder..

2) Open Rotate the Engine till That Exhaust valve is open.. Then use a Blow Gun with that 1/4 fuel line on it, and Blow into the Cylinder and try and lodge the piece out and out the exhaust..

Cap
 
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