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Discussion Starter #61
Took the opportunity to replace some worn linkages on gearbox while it was out, the part with ball joints on it was ex Japan so I fitted a universal swaybar linkage and did some other nylon bushes to make shifting nicer

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I spent a lot of time redoing the engine loom trying to tidy it up, remove unwanted plugs, add extra sensor wiring and relocate items. Quite happy with how if came out:

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Now all ready to go back in:

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Meanwhile new alloy radiator arrived, minor adjustments needed but fits well and way thicker than stock:

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Discussion Starter #62
Engine now in:

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Took a lot of modification and relocation of parts like fuel/coolant lines, clutch line etc to fit intercooler in but it’s working. Have also got kirks mount inserts and there’s a lot more vibration on startup.

Also done the following:
Braided clutch line
New handbrake cables
Iriway 7 plugs
DW fuel pump
2L Catch can
Etc etc

Still to go:
800cc injectors and e85 fill and tune
Wrap exhaust
Replace all fluids
Fit upgraded rear brakes
Refit rear suspension
Lots of little fiddly things
Have some fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I’m taking that red tape idea...
I’m interested to see how the build goes.
Thanks, its actually pink - its a Nitto limited edition tape lol, apparently they donate money from each roll sold to breast cancer foundation. Anywho, I used it because I had a 5 or 6 pack of rolls lying around, and now its done I think it looks kinda cool. Forgot to mention I have some front and rear swaybars coming plus front inner fender braces
 

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Nicely done. (y) Gotta commend you on presentation, engine bay looks great. I get sick of seeing people stuffing engines and hi-po equipment into a car and not taking the time to smooth, clean, and paint.
 

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Hellooooo. Will you be modifying the fuel system (SS, return line etc.) aside from the injectors? Ive ran e85 on my two previous vehicles (none designed for FF), one was D.I. and our HPFP would get gummed up requiring cleaning every so many miles. My other car was standard multiport and I got weird gunk around the injector tips (maybe orings breaking down from ethanol?). But with e85 I was able too inadvertently go past MBT .... with no detonation so we didnt care for the extra maintenance. Curious to see if you have any experience with such and what remedies have you come across.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Hellooooo. Will you be modifying the fuel system (SS, return line etc.) aside from the injectors? Ive ran e85 on my two previous vehicles (none designed for FF), one was D.I. and our HPFP would get gummed up requiring cleaning every so many miles. My other car was standard multiport and I got weird gunk around the injector tips (maybe orings breaking down from ethanol?). But with e85 I was able too inadvertently go past MBT .... with no detonation so we didnt care for the extra maintenance. Curious to see if you have any experience with such and what remedies have you come across.

Hello, no planning to run standard returnless setup for now with intank blitz stainless FPR. Both my new injectors and 255LPH Fuel pump are e85 friendly, the only thing that may crop up is o-rings in fuel line where it clips over the rail inlet. In my experience with ethanol, it is very hygroscopic and shouldn’t be left stored where if can absorb moisture. Have seen a skyline that sat parked for 6 months or so, ended up needing new pump and injectors as moisture had caused the FI internals to corrode.
I have completely removed my evap controls and blocked the tank vent for now, at some stage I may try and add a tank vent that avoids moisture but I’ll just run with sealed tank for now and deal with the vacuum and pressure issues that adds.

I believe user thangcu35 ran close to 400whp on e85 with a similar setup of fuel and cams other than being gt2860 turbo or something, so that gives me hope.


Should have this thing all tuned and good to go by end of November 2019
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Got a few more things done, finished brake upgrade and fitted new rims and tyres. Have been on a few test drives, engine and SC all doing what they should. Just bedding in clutch and brakes and performing a few minor tidy ups before filling up with E85 and getting tune done.

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Rims: genuine Rays Volk TE37 cup edition 15x6.5” with Dunlop Formula-R 205/50R15

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Also have a pair of black 15” te37 replicas and some watanabe style 15x8s with Toyo R888R for track use. Will keep the 16” mesh style for street/drift use
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Wrapped the exhaust in Basalt Lava wrap, huge difference to engine bay temps

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Finally got oil cooler lines hooked up and All other hydraulic/fuel lines run. Simply ran out of room for front engine roll mount, so will keep that and Kirk inserts spare for now. Fitted a engine damper in place of it and it works perfectly, engine is very solidly mounted when under load

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Got a few more things done, finished brake upgrade and fitted new rims and tyres. Have been on a few test drives, engine and SC all doing what they should. Just bedding in clutch and brakes and performing a few minor tidy ups before filling up with E85 and getting tune done.

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Rims: genuine Rays Volk TE37 cup edition 15x6.5” with Dunlop Formula-R 205/50R15

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Also have a pair of black 15” te37 replicas and some watanabe style 15x8s with Toyo R888R for track use. Will keep the 16” mesh style for street/drift use
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Wrapped the exhaust in Basalt Lava wrap, huge difference to engine bay temps

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Finally got oil cooler lines hooked up and All other hydraulic/fuel lines run. Simply ran out of room for front engine roll mount, so will keep that and Kirk inserts spare for now. Fitted a engine damper in place of it and it works perfectly, engine is very solidly mounted when under load

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Your beautiful headers are going to eventually crack if you keep them wrapped and take the car on the track. The proper approach is to heat shield the things in your engine compartment that need protection and let cooling air get to the headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Looking good! How does it feel with the lack of boost leaks and new pulley setup?
cheers, it feels a lot better; before it was lacking, now I can tell even on just the base tune it’s a lot more powerful. It’s also a lot louder with jdm stainless muffler removed and resonator in its place, I’m wondering if the old exhaust was quite restrictive as it was a cat back system for a stock 1ZZ. I also hear and feel the MWR cam switch over where as I could never really tell when lift engaged before.


Your beautiful headers are going to eventually crack if you keep them wrapped and take the car on the track. The proper approach is to heat shield the things in your engine compartment that need protection and let cooling air get to the headers.
thanks, but they’ve been wrapped since I had them made a few years ago and no cracks yet. Reasonably thick-walled mild steel which seems to be holding up.

Is that little shock replacing your front motor mount? The one that goes to the firewall is what I mean by front.


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Yes sir, still have the rear roll mount on subframe with kirkasaurus inserts plus both engine/trans mounts. The front one to firewall could be made to fit with some new brackets but as it’s there to stop roll under accel/decel I figured a vibration damper would be a good substitute. Put a m8 rivnut into firewall on a strong part and then used a gearbox bolt hole with a longer bolt. It’s one of those universal vibration dampers that is set reasonably firm, it has rubber and nylon bushes inside and seems to be working well. Driveline is much more rigid than with stock roll mounts, no more supercharger hitting firewall under deceleration. I would have put one higher up towards the cylinder head if I could as the twisting effect of driveline torque is obviously more prevalent and easier to mitigate the further you get from the crankshaft, but there really just wasn’t any room to fit it once the engine was in. Many transverse driveline cars have roll mounts down on subframes etc and they still work okay. I might see if I can fit an OEM Toyota Camry top stabiliser mount one day if I have any issues.
 
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