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First thing to do is check your tire pressures. Depending on the tires your fronts should be 26psi and the rears 32psi.
Holy carp, that low?

I've been running my tires higher. I noticed uneven wear and lowered the pressure front and rear substantially recently, but still north of that in the front by a bit.

My tires have a larger diameter radius by 3% front, and 7% rear. I don't understand how that would influence the pressures I run in them, if at all. Any general advice?
 

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That was the first thing I checked, everything was up to spec. Next step will be checking the alignment of the wheels, if that dont solve it then Im lost. All bushings, tires and so on are good.

The car is still growing on me, I had a mk2 with 175hp before, it felt alot better in most ways :mellow:
Get another alignment to rule it out. This cars are very sensitive to alignment. The other most likely possibility is the struts. What brand and size tires are you using.
 

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Holy carp, that low?

I've been running my tires higher. I noticed uneven wear and lowered the pressure front and rear substantially recently, but still north of that in the front by a bit.

My tires have a larger diameter radius by 3% front, and 7% rear. I don't understand how that would influence the pressures I run in them, if at all. Any general advice?
It does depend on the tire however those are the factory specs. It is a good starting point as adding too much to the front can make the car squirrelly.
 

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Holy carp, that low?

I've been running my tires higher. I noticed uneven wear and lowered the pressure front and rear substantially recently, but still north of that in the front by a bit.

My tires have a larger diameter radius by 3% front, and 7% rear. I don't understand how that would influence the pressures I run in them, if at all. Any general advice?
What size and brand tires are you running and are they reinforced.
 

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What size and brand tires are you running and are they reinforced.
Hm, working off memory here with regards to the sizes, but here goes:

Khumo Ecsta XS
205/45/16 front
225/50/16 rear

I don't believe them to have reinforced sidewalls based on what I've heard on spyderchat and that the manufacturer doesn't mention it on the product web page.
 

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Hm, working off memory here with regards to the sizes, but here goes:

Khumo Ecsta XS
205/45/16 front
225/50/16 rear

I don't believe them to have reinforced sidewalls based on what I've heard on spyderchat and that the manufacturer doesn't mention it on the product web page.
The load rating for those tires exceeds the load rating for the stock tires. You should start at 26F and 32R then adjust the tire pressure to where you like it. The more air you give it will feel stiffer however the contact patch will diminish so don't go more then 4psi over stock tires pressures.
 

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The load rating for those tires exceeds the load rating for the stock tires. You should start at 26F and 32R then adjust the tire pressure to where you like it. The more air you give it will feel stiffer however the contact patch will diminish so don't go more then 4psi over stock tires pressures.
Thank you Dev, I appreciate the advice. I'll start with those pressures today and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Atleast your problem went away SDSU.

A little update, more annoying than the car behaving badly at speed is the noise i'm getting under braking or whenever i go up a driveway at an angle. It was less loud before but now the metallic POP sound is getting pretty loud. I can replicate it everytime i go up a driveway at an angle. I'm starting to think the chassis or a strut tower is coming apart from the car frame. I also think this "movement" of whatever to cause this loud pop is also dynamically changing my alignment during braking/left turns at fast highway speeds since both these put load on the chassis.

But all the damn bushings and arms are fine!!! ARg. I don't want to spend 3 bills to get che's full rear arm package to find out its something else.

Loud pop sometimes emanates from (slightly less often) right front, (most often) right rear and (rarely) left front. My tech friend said it could be the brake pads/calipers "sticking" but the same pop happens when going up driveways, so i've ruled that out.

Today I started to think my harddog roll bar was "moving" but then i realized I had this noise even before that install. The harddog might be making the pop worst since it braces the central part of the chassis more.

This is the only problem keeping me from fully enjoying this car. I wish something would break so then I'd atleast know what it was. Track days are flying by me because of this problem.:angry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I found the muthaf+cking problem!!!

Finally the stars lined up and I redid my clutch. Long story short, machine shop did a bad job on cutting the stock flywheel when i did the clutch the first time. :angry: Anyway got an aluminum flywheel, new bolts all around and even got a trd lsd.

During one of my breaks while doing the whole job (its actually pretty easy now ^_^), I was messing with the rear link arms. Holy moly one of them was moving around like it wasn't even bolted on good but it was. The bushing inside was done. Che arm ordered.

I'll update when i get an alignment after putting on the arm.
I'm very happy, I can finally go faster than 75mph and know that if i had to brake moderately hard I won't crap my seats.
 

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I can finally go faster than 75mph and know that if i had to brake moderately hard I won't crap my seats.
Aww man..to think I was riding around with you in that death box this past summer! :lol:

Haha - good work man. Maybe you and Righty can come up to Westchester this winter and help me with my with my 2ZZ swap! (I've got a nice garage and tools)
 

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Karthwyne was having a similar problem and it was one of the the rear tie rod ends was loose. (see squirrely rear end thread)
This would also be a good time to remind everyone that when you disassemble the rear suspension arms for any reason, clutch, tranny, install bracing, the weight of the car needs to be on the rear suspension before you torque those bolts. The bolt holds the center of the bushing tight and all of your travel is taken up by the rubber part of the bushing. So theoretically you want that part of the bushing held in "mid travel" . I would only tighten them finger tight, load the suspension and continue to torque the bolts NOT THE NUTS!

I'm not saying that's what you did rcnype I'm just posting a friendly reminder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Karthwyne was having a similar problem and it was one of the the rear tie rod ends was loose. (see squirrely rear end thread)
This would also be a good time to remind everyone that when you disassemble the rear suspension arms for any reason, clutch, tranny, install bracing, the weight of the car needs to be on the rear suspension before you torque those bolts. The bolt holds the center of the bushing tight and all of your travel is taken up by the rubber part of the bushing. So theoretically you want that part of the bushing held in "mid travel" . I would only tighten them finger tight, load the suspension and continue to torque the bolts NOT THE NUTS!

I'm not saying that's what you did rcnype I'm just posting a friendly reminder.
Hmm you would think with my ocd i would have thought of this but i did not. This is an interesting technique and logically makes sense but does anyone have any proof doing it without vehicle load has any detrimental effect other than maybe wearing the bushings a little more?

Is this how the BGB says to do it? Also some of those mount bolts by the knuckle is really hard to get to and with my car being so low how can anyone hold the nut while torquing the bolt?
 

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SA 58 BGB

2. REMOVE STRUT ROD
Remove the 2 bolts, 2 nuts and strut rod.
Torque: 78 N·m (796 kgf·cm, 58 ft·lbf)
NOTICE:
Don’t turn the nuts.
HINT:
At the time of installation, after stabilizing the suspension,
torque the bolts.

I guess "stabilizing the suspension" means loading it?

I actually learned this from Corky's bracing installation instructions. I just lower the car onto some ramps, torque then lift again and remove the ramps. The nut holds itself with little dimples, that's why you torque the bolt.
 
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