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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been wanting to Re-Map my ECU in the STOCK Spyder ( 2001 ), and I'm finding that it's not Possable. At least not Yet.

I realised, Even if I had the Opportunity to Re-map it, I would not Know Where to 'Change It Too'. I needed to Figure out where it's at now.

I need a Wideband!


I did a Lot of searching, and settled upon the LC-1 by Innovate. WWW.innovatemotorsports.com

The Display that is avalable for this unit, is small and easly mounted. I like Easy. After downloading the manual and reading and Re-Reading it, I liked the Concept of the Serial Comm Line. Kevin has talked about it, and now I see why.. Kinda Kool!.
Upon Further reading, I saw that I could Program the LC-1 to Mimic, the normal narrow Band Sensor, and 'Fool' the ECU into shifting the fuel ratio to where ever I wanted!.. Im Sold!.
I sat Down to Order, and Realised it was Somewhat cheeper to get the 'Package Deal' that included the AUX 4 input Box.. OOOhhh.. More Info.. I'm Sold(er).
I ordered the LC-1,XD-16,SSI-4 kit that included the O2 sensor and the Weld In bung.. Heck.. where am I gunna put ANOTHER Bung..
When the Kit Arived, I realised what I had been reading about. The LC-1, looks like a big splice in an otherwise normal cable set. NOT what I was expecting. This weekend I backed the Car into the Barn, and procedded to do the install. I wanted it to look good, almost a dealer install. I figured the back of the car was coming off so I could get to all the Exhaust System, while the 'Down Pipe' was still installed. This way I'd be Sure it's gunna Fit Properly.
I Found a Spot between the rear Sway Bar and the rear Sub Frame that looked like a Good Spot, So I got out my Hole Saw and made a mark in the heat shield, then switched to a Smaller Hole saw to cut the Hole.



The day did not start out well, as when I checked the acetylene, I had less than 25 PSI in the Tank. Ok So I might have to run to Dads house, and get his tank. Then when I was sawing the smaller hole in the Pipe, I broke the Pilot Drill off!.. Oh and Guess where it went.. Down the Pipe!.. Nope, could not see it or get it. I had to use the Torch and Plyers and finish 'Tearing' the hole for the Bung. Nope, still cant see the Drill!.. Oh well, it stays.. Hope it dosent make much Noise!..

Got around to welding the bung in. I would have liked to have a 'Longer' Bung, as the front of the 'Fitting' was up by about 3/8". Ok I'm good, I can fill that.. < Well See!> I'm using wire coat hanger for the welding rod.. My usual.. Like I said, I'd prefer to have a Longer Bung, so I could have cut it off at an angle.. less Filling!.. I had to struggle to get it all closed. 'Course it was in the Front.. close to the Cross Member.. had to weld it from the Top!.. Got it.. Days not that bad after all.. And I did not run out of Gas!..



I had to Finish the heat shield hole, that I started with the Hole Saw. Put the heat shields back on ( I did not break ANY BOLTS..This day's going OK. ) and start straping this sucker back together!





And this heat shield had to be Modified to allow the 'Plug on the End' to slide through, when the sensor is changed.. Or else, you gotta pull this shield!. More work now ends up Less Work Later


Where to put the LC-1.. It's not really liking heat, So it needs to be behind a heat shield. I wanted it all to go 'Off to the Left', up the Drivers Side to the ECU. The only place that was Feeling Right, was under the Air Cleaner Box.



Next was power for the Critter. A Power wire is available at the ECU, but I wanted to leave that alone.. well almost alone. I ended up using that to power a Relay, that switched on Batt Power for me. This Fuse box is not as Easy as it Should be to get open!.. Not Kidding, it was an I.Q Test that I was getting an 'F' on.. Took a While. The box Lifts UP off the front Bracket, after pulling the mounting bolt.. Could Not figure that out.. < Brain Fade > Then get the bottom Off. I kept trying to make it more difficult than it was. It just has little clips, that you place Tooth Picks into and slide the sucker off. I kept trying to have a Doubble Set of picks, on the Inside Channel, and the Outside Clips. It was Break Time!!


Now get a Ground. Dont Forget the Ground.. The book talks about grounding all to the same place. And to the Block. I don't like Block Grounds, cause they get Forgotten. So for now ( Until I have Troubles ) I'll do a Frame Ground at the Block Strap Wire.




Now I have to get all this stuff into the Cab. And the hole has to be big enough to pass the cable ends of the LC-1. So the hole saw.. Next size up, cause it's still got a Pilot Drill!

View from the Engine Bay


And from the Cab. We don't want to hurt ANYTHING.. Double Check TWICE!. Used 'Fuel Line' that was cut open to make a 'Grommet'



That was the end of One days work.. With interuptions!.. Let see, there was an Oil Change.. Windshield Wiper Replacement, and Air up Some Tires.. Tomorrow is Wiring...



The next part is the Interconnect for the ECU. The LC-1 does not need it, But I will want to control the Mixture at some time in the Future, and I don't want to come back in here! I also wanted to hook up the SSI-4 to the TPS, MAF, and RPM so I could Record on Lap-Top. I needed to hook up to the Signals that were going to the ECU. The only way to do that is with this harness. It comes from WWW.autosportwiring.com Any other way to do this would be Insane!!




Here is an Inside View of the 'Control Room', behind the Drivers Seat. The SSI-4 is on the Right Side, and the Control Power Relay is on the Left. All the components are mounted to the 'Cover' using two sided foam tape. Works Great. The control relay ( Rummaged through Kragen Auto Parts ), powers up the Innovate Stuff, when the ECU comes alive. I have a 20 Amp Fuse feeding the Relay Input term, and I have Two Fuses on the Output. One of them is a 3 Amp for the SSI-4 and XD-16 display, and the other one is a 5 amp feeding the LC-1 and the Wide Band. And I have 'Future' capabilities.. Must have More Power!!


And after all the final stuffing, this is what the ECU ended up looking like..




AND, When I started it up, I can't here the broken Drill Rattling.. Good Install..

I ended up Straping the XD-16 Display to one of the A/C vents on the Dash.. I'm done for now.. I spent all the Third Day ( Today ) troubleshooting the LC-1,SSI-4 Hookups.. The LC-1 to XD-16 Fired rite Up!.. It's the SSI-4 that I'm having problems With. AND they do not include enough cables in the "KIT' to hook it all together!.. Need one More 'Double Sub-Mini' cables!..

As I get farther along on the 'Dash Install' Ill post Pics.. I'm thinking about putting another dash on top of the existing dash, at the same 'Height' as the top of the Drivers Inst Cluster. I'll Mock up something..

Cap
 

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Nice writeup
Cant wait to see what you "discover" with the logger :icon_thumright:

The frame ground should be fine if you arent using the analog outputs. Doh!
No worries, it should still be OK as long as there are no large loads also grounded anywhere to the frame. I found my 7amp alky pump created a .5v offset between the XD readout and the analog outputs. But because the pump was boost referenced, the delta didnt exist in vacuum such as at idle or cruise.
 

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Congratulations, Cap. I pushed the wires through the big grommet that's next to the one you made. Cut a hole in it, pushed wires taped to dipstick through. Well, sort of. I went through the one on the other (right) side of the car. I see an eManage in your future.
 

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Nice writeup and pictures. But your SSI-4 is where your PFC should go. ;)


all kidding aside, I think you chose wisely for your power and ground locations as well as the PnP harness modification. It will allow you to keep the stock harness unmolested. Nice thinking.
 

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(playing armchair quarterback) -- I'd cut back the heat shield and install a heatsink for your WBO2 sensor (see p.8 of the LC-1 users manual). Heatsinks are available on eBay or you can make your own from a 4x4 square of 48oz copper.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kevin:
While I was sitting at the back of my Beastie, I was looking at the 'Un-Obstructed Freeway' that was going up the Passenger side of the car, Where you ran your wires. It was very tempting to run stuff up there. But I wanted the wire ends to be at the ECU, and I chose to power the stuff from the Engine Bay Fuse box, So up the Drivers Side I went. As I was thinking about the 'Destruction' (Drilling Holes) I was doing to this 'Otherwise Virgin Car' , I was reminding myself of your task of cutting out the Firewall!.. I don't like hacking good stuff up.. But it's nessasary!.. I'll end up taking out my Firewall also.. And I'll 'Cringe' when I do it.. I have yet to fill my 'Kevorkien Hole'.. I'll stuff it with Something..

WTS:

Your Write-ups were usefull in research for the 'Easy How Too' of this project.. I remembered the PnP harness, and thought that was great.. I searched your posts, till I found it!.. Would never have tried this without it!


This morning on the Drive In ( 1.5 Hrs ) I was thinking about all the Stuff to do, And I was wondering if the Knock Sensor would be able to feed the 'Vr' input of the SSI-4, and be able to get a good 'Knock Number'.. I'll search that one out.

This install is for 'Max Cruse' mode.. I'm looking to Streach the MOST Miles per Gallon I can from my fuel.. Ca has raised the Gas tax ( I new they would ) and I needed to do something to reduce my Commute costs... Other than Move!.. So I'm seeing what I can do for Fuel Consumption. I think I'll need to get an EGT ( Exhaust Gas Temp ) gauge, as I don't hant to hurt anything, and I'm thinking I'll need to Monitor the Cat Out Temp as well!.. More Instrumentation!!!.. Not cheep!!..

Thanks for the Coments.. I'll keep updating

Cap
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Cap Weir @ Feb 17 2009, 02:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Kevin:
While I was sitting at the back of my Beastie, I was looking at the 'Un-Obstructed Freeway' that was going up the Passenger side of the car, Where you ran your wires. It was very tempting to run stuff up there. But I wanted the wire ends to be at the ECU, and I chose to power the stuff from the Engine Bay Fuse box, So up the Drivers Side I went. As I was thinking about the 'Destruction' (Drilling Holes) I was doing to this 'Otherwise Virgin Car' , I was reminding myself of your task of cutting out the Firewall!.. I don't like hacking good stuff up.. But it's nessasary!.. I'll end up taking out my Firewall also.. And I'll 'Cringe' when I do it.. I have yet to fill my 'Kevorkien Hole'.. I'll stuff it with Something..

Cap[/b]
I put my Lc-1 behind the pax tail light on the wheel well. I am running a PFC so I just used an old O2 sensor pig tail and plugged that in at the O2 sensor plug at the dipstick. Narrow band signal wire from the lc1 to the signal wire at the O2 plug, power for the lc-1 wired into the O2 heater wires. Ran the digital leads forward through the pax harness hole. Ground wire hooked up to body where head ground comes up to body behind dipstick. Switched power for LC-1 comes through efi2 fuse which I simply downsized. I can switch back and forth between pfc and stock 2zz box by simply swapping the 4 main connectors. I only throw a heater code on stock ecu using the lc1 but car will run normally and allows me to use stock ecu for trouble shooting.
I ran the logworks program on the stock ecu and it pretty much nails 14.7 at anything up to about half throttle. I was getting 30 mpg in a mix of city/highway on the 2000 2zz ecu. Don't know if you are going to do much better than that running a leaner mixture in the 1zz. I would try a taller 5th gear also.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cheeter!.. Nice easy Install...

I was seeing 14.4 to 14.9 most of the Drive In.. Sometimes it'd 'Hick-up' and go up or down from that..But I'm Mostly flat and Long on this Drive.. Looks like over 4K RPM is Open Loop, and about 1/2 throttle is Also Open.. I'll get all my Logging working, and be able to tell... I'm not thinking I'll ever hit Open Loop while I have it in 'Cruse Mode'.. I'll be switching back and forth from Narrow band at 14.7 and wide band set to 'Snap' at 15.7.. I'll see how it works.. It looks like there is too much Fuel in Open Loop, as I was seeing numbers in the 12's.. A Little rich .. So if I'm set to Cruse at 15.7 then I'll see 13's in open loop.. Good enough for short jumps onto Freeway..

My 'Taller Gearing', was the 'Mini P-U' tires I'm running on the Rear.. 205-60's.. Brought my MPG from 30-32 to 34-35.. So that helped..

I'd like to go for the Europe 6 Speed that Monkey Wrench Sells.. It takes a Lot of Saving to Pay for a $2500 gear box!.. possably as a Maintenance Item I'll be able to Justify it!.. 2ZZ is also more Fuel Efficent.. But that's an Additional 5K.. Not gunna Happen, Unless I hit the Lotto.. or retire a Welthy Man!.. <Dream On.. Too many Kids to Pay for!>..

For now it's just Fun to see how much I can 'Save', without spending too Much..

Cap
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Cap Weir @ Feb 17 2009, 03:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Cheeter!.. Nice easy Install...

I was seeing 14.4 to 14.9 most of the Drive In.. Sometimes it'd 'Hick-up' and go up or down from that..But I'm Mostly flat and Long on this Drive.. Looks like over 4K RPM is Open Loop, and about 1/2 throttle is Also Open.. I'll get all my Logging working, and be able to tell... I'm not thinking I'll ever hit Open Loop while I have it in 'Cruse Mode'.. I'll be switching back and forth from Narrow band at 14.7 and wide band set to 'Snap' at 15.7.. I'll see how it works.. It looks like there is too much Fuel in Open Loop, as I was seeing numbers in the 12's.. A Little rich .. So if I'm set to Cruse at 15.7 then I'll see 13's in open loop.. Good enough for short jumps onto Freeway..

My 'Taller Gearing', was the 'Mini P-U' tires I'm running on the Rear.. 205-60's.. Brought my MPG from 30-32 to 34-35.. So that helped..

I'd like to go for the Europe 6 Speed that Monkey Wrench Sells.. It takes a Lot of Saving to Pay for a $2500 gear box!.. possably as a Maintenance Item I'll be able to Justify it!.. 2ZZ is also more Fuel Efficent.. But that's an Additional 5K.. Not gunna Happen, Unless I hit the Lotto.. or retire a Welthy Man!.. <Dream On.. Too many Kids to Pay for!>..

For now it's just Fun to see how much I can 'Save', without spending too Much..

Cap[/b]
That install won't really work in your case unless you go PFC. I am pretty sure the corolla 5th speed set from 98-2002 would fit in the spyder. It has a much deeper jump and would be a cheaper alternative. The only reason I never did it was because I went 2zz/6speed. If I go with some sort of forced induction in the future I am thinking of putting a LSD and taller 5th in my 5 speed and installing it. Worked out to be taller than the six speed final.
 

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Nice install cap. Did you use a silicon bronze rod and braze on that piece of metal on the heatshield you modified for the wire to run through?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes. I was starting to get the Worry Tool ( Hammer ) to shove the heat shield out of the way, but as I started to put the 'Bend Lines' on it, I changed my mind.. Too far to Go.. It was just some 1/4 rod I had, and Braised it to the heat shield.. I did not grind off the Galvanize, so It did not 'Wet Well', but I did not want to throw sparks around my paint.. Had to heat and wire brush to get it to 'Wet'..

Cap
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE ("Blackcreek")</div>
Switched power for LC-1 comes through efi2 fuse...[/b]
You replaced it with a 5amp???..... and it hasnt popped....hmmm. What does that tell us about the electrical load on the injector circuit?
 

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Efi1 and Ig2 are the 15 amp big boys that run the injectors and ignition. The efi2 fuse (7.5 amp) only runs the 3 o2 heaters and a couple small vsv switching valves and I guess a small amount of control power to the ecu. The 2zz only uses two o2 sensors on the stock ecu and the pfc really only needs one and only if you want to use o2 feedback. I really don't think you need to even use a smaller fuse but I didn't want to chance it. The lc1 instructions just say a minimum 5 amp, I couldn't find a max rating.This really wouldn't work if you were trying to run all 3 sensor heaters and a lc1 off the efi2 fuse. It might work if you ran the lc1 in place of one of the o2 sensors and kept the 7.5 amp fuse but you would throw a heater code on a stock ecu. I was responding more to the location of the lc1, I like it behind the heat shield and tail light on the pax wheelwell , just another option.The equipment you want to hook up to the lc1 would determine your particular wiring.
 

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I am just now hearing about this stuff for the first time. I went through the website and am having a 'whoa' moment. This stuff sounds really cool and I'm really liking the modular concept. That wiring harness you picked up looks like a life saver. Great install and great write up. Like Beane, I'm anxious to see what you discover. Let's see some graphs. I was thinking about your drill bit 'incident' and was wondering if there might be risk of damaging your new wide-band if the bit was going to be sliding around in there. Magnet taped to the end of a coat-hanger?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I figured I'd seen enough action on the LC-1 to feel comfortable to what It's doing. It's time to let the LC-1 control my mixture.. ( Remember Stock ECU ).. This afternoon after work ( at work ) I went ahead and installed a Switch in the 'Fantom Switch Location' ( on the Dash ) and had this switch, close a Relay in my 'Control Room' behind the Drivers Seat.
This relay is set up to switch from my Stock Narrow band O2 Sensors ( 2 of them ) to the Analog Output of The LC-1 ( One Output ). I'd wanted the Wide Band O2 Sensor to be able to control my Mixture at about 15.7 Fuel Ratio. I figured I kill two birds with one stone, and Program the Output of the 'Narrow Band Simulator' to center at 15.7.
I put all my tools away, Started the MR2 and backed out of the Building. I had it running on the Stock Sensors, and It was Idling at 'Bout 14.5 when I got done Closing the Doors, and Turning off the Lights.
Now for the Test. I pressed 'The Button' that selected the Narrow-Band Simulator. And I'll be Damned if the A/FR didn't climb up to 15.8. SLICK!..

I pulled out of the Driveway, and went down the Street ( 35 MPH ) all's good. Went through town and was noticing the A/Fr was 'Hunting' Up-Down.. Roaming from 'bout 14.5 to 16.5.. ( In town ). I pulled on to the freeway, and Did not notice much difference.. Great..
As I was driving on the freeway ( 65 MPH ) I began to 'Feel' the Hunting.. I kept telling my self, that it was the Wind or my 'Brain' was trying to imagine something. After about 45 minutes of watching the Gauge 'Hunt' from 13.5 to 16.9 of steady driving, I flipped the switch on the dash. It smoothed rite Out!.. The gauge settled down to about 14.2 to 14.5 and mostly stayed there.

I found a good turnoff, and Fired up the Lap Top, to reprogram the 'Snap' of the Simulator. It was set to the factory #'s except I shifted them up by 1.0%.. The 'Window' that the snap happens at is about 1% wide, so it goes from 15.09 to 15.99 ( I think these are the Numbers.. Close Enough ), so I narrowed the 'Window' by Half.. To 15.09 to 15.59.. And went back on to the Freeway.. Drove it about 15 minuted on the 'LC-1's Narrower Setting', then flipped the Switch, back to the Factory O2 Sensors. Did not like It.. Too much 'Hunting'. Something about the Analog Output of the LC-1, that the factory ECU don't Like!.

Somewhere I have an actual voltage output graph of a Narrow Band Sensor, and I'll compare it to the 'Simulated Output' of the LC-1, and see how they differ.
When using the Factory narrow Band Sensors, the A/Fr as displayed by the XD-16, would vary from 14.3 to 14.7 most of the time.. about every 10 sec's or so, the display would drop to 14.1 then bounce to 14.9 but mostly a stable reading. When the ECU is driven by the LC-1 Simulating a Narrow Band, it Hunts Wildly!..

If I can't get the Factory ECU to Like the LC-1 Output my next option, is to use the 'Relay Switch' to disconnect the Narrow band Sensors completly, and this will throw the ECU into open Loop. then by Monitoring the A/Fr on the XD-16, I will Attenuate ( Reduce ) the Output of the MAF by way of a Dash Mounted Variable Resistor. this way I can 'Tune' the amount of air the ECU thinks the engine is getting while in Open loop and maintain the A/Fr I want.
This type of 'Scheme' would work for me, because my 'Long Drive' is mostly flat.. So I'd put it in 'Open Loop, Resistor Controlled Mixture', after I get to the Freeway and settle in for my 'Long Winters Nap'. and then as I jump off the freeway, Flip the Switch, and go back into 'Closed Loop, no Resistor on MAF'.. With the Check Engine lite to keep me Company!

Yea I'm Crazy, but I'm mostly Harmless..

Cap
 

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I don't see how fuel efficency can be increased without at least a piggy back because the stock ECU really wants to keep the AFR at a catalytic friendly stoichmetric mix of 14.x:1.
Best bet then would be to feed a constant 14.6 signal to it with something like a SplitSecond ESC-1 and control fueling with an aftemarket EMS. Either the AEM FIC or Emanage Ultimate or better. But by then the ROI on fuel saving is going to be a few years at $3/gal.

Careful: By reducing the load as sensed by the MAF the timing will advance to the point of knock even during O2 feedback closed loop cruise.

Perhaps I misunderstood but I dont think you'll have much luck forcing the ECU into openloop by disconeccting the stock O2 signals. Most likely just trip the CEL.

Watch the stock O2 voltages while quickly going WOT from a steady cruise. At some point they will either stop/freeze or go blank . I've always taken this to mean thats the point where the ECU has stopped passing the O2 signals to the OBDII and therefore has entered open loop.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Cap Weir @ Feb 18 2009, 11:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
This relay is set up to switch from my Stock Narrow band O2 Sensors ( 2 of them ) to the Analog Output of The LC-1 ( One Output ). I'd wanted the Wide Band O2 Sensor to be able to control my Mixture at about 15.7 Fuel Ratio. I figured I kill two birds with one stone, and Program the Output of the 'Narrow Band Simulator' to center at 15.7.
Now for the Test. I pressed 'The Button' that selected the Narrow-Band Simulator. And I'll be Damned if the A/FR didn't climb up to 15.8. SLICK!..

.. Drove it about 15 minuted on the 'LC-1's Narrower Setting', then flipped the Switch, back to the Factory O2 Sensors. Did not like It.. Too much 'Hunting'. Something about the Analog Output of the LC-1, that the factory ECU don't Like!.

Somewhere I have an actual voltage output graph of a Narrow Band Sensor, and I'll compare it to the 'Simulated Output' of the LC-1, and see how they differ.
When using the Factory narrow Band Sensors, the A/Fr as displayed by the XD-16, would vary from 14.3 to 14.7 most of the time.. about every 10 sec's or so, the display would drop to 14.1 then bounce to 14.9 but mostly a stable reading. When the ECU is driven by the LC-1 Simulating a Narrow Band, it Hunts Wildly!..


Cap[/b]
I have the narrow band lc1 input going to my stock 2zz ecu or pfc depending on what I am doing. The logworks showed a happy 14.7 running on the lc1 input and the stock 2zz ecu. No hunting,surging etc. Just like the stock o2 sensor. Are you sure you are not getting some sort of voltage offset when you try to split the single signal into 2 for the 1zz ecu? maybe one bank getting one signal and the other getting a totally different one? How did you wire the signal split?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Blackcreek:
It's nice to know the Toyota ECU will take the Input From the LC-1.. I'm thinking I have an Air Leak in the 3 Amigos area.. I'll hook up a Blower to the Tail Pipe, and See what I find.
Yes I'm Sure about the 'Split' of the O2 Sensors/ Lc-1 to ECU.. If you have run the Stock ECU from an LC-1 then it's not a Waveform Problem.. Thats what I needed to know.. Thank You..

Thats why I installed a Switch on the System.. Must have a 'Back Up Plan.. Expect Failures, and Take it One Step at a Time!"

Cap
 

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Cap, there may be a setting for how often the outputs change. I seem to recall something in Log Works called "Instantaneous", but I think that's the default. It controls the rate at which the Lambda sensor's data is sampled by the LC-1 electronic module, which in turn may (stands to reason) affect the rate at which the outputs change. Anyway, check with Klaitin (?) or Klaus (?) on the Innovate LC-1 forum. He once said that he does what you're trying to do in "all his cars", but then he works for Innovate Motorsports. I see no reason why it won't dither around 14.7 and fool the ECU, since it works with my PFC. I never tried to fool the stock ECU like you are doing, though. I never had one analog out tied to two ECU inputs, either. When I started reading your post, I wasn't too concerned, though, because hunting around a leaner point may be noticeable (in how it feels). Someone on lotustalk named charliex talked with me about this last year. He said the LC-1's simulated NB output wasn't close enough to their stock sensor to fool the Lotus ECU (not the same as ours, not even the same engine, a 2ZZ-GE). I just remembered that. Finally, there's the 3rd O2 sensor. You'll get a CEL for Catalytic Converter Below Efficiency if you are managing to fool the ECU.

Bottom line is it might work, with more fiddling around in LogWorks, but if you really want to change how the engine runs, you might want to think about an eManage or Camcon or Power FC. The last one won't pass emissions, though, has no OBD-II diags, so you'd have to swap it in/out. At least it is quick and easy to swap. Same 4 connectors on ECU.
 
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