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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought the car from Toyota here in Sweden in oktober 2010 with 138000 km on the odometer.

After winter storage outside 2010/2011 the problems began with jerking when starting and slipping when chancing up at higher rev. This was in februari 2010. I drove the car daily with this issues (coming and going) and in May the gearbox just went dead. When engaging 5th in 100 km/hour there was a bang so load that i thougt the hole car was about to explode. Got a new gearbox on the 10 year warranty. Think I had 12 days left until 10 years :).

The car drove well for some time but then the jerking and slipping got back. It got better after driving hard so everything got really warm and sometimes the troubles went away completely but to be back next day when everything was cold. Toyota said that it's normal for that kind of gearbox ... as they could know with only 4 SMT (all imported) in Sweden and a total of 90 MR2 Spyders. They just didn't wanna deal with the car i think.

Before the winter storage outside 2011/2012 something went wrong so i couldn't engaged a gear. Me not having any place to put the car inside just let it be parked all the winter outside. A couple of weeks ago i managed to drive the car. That after doing the re-learn with the right software from a laptop. The software did what is supposed to do (beside that last thing of the N flashing after driving away at the end of the re-learn) and I also tried most functions like stating the HPU, engaging gears and other things, it just worked everything I did. But before i could drive away I had to rev up to 5 000 for the clutch to engage. After doing that reving for a while the clutch seemed to work as i should. The smell of a warm clutch was present.

Next morning the N didn't lit and the gear couldn't be engaged and the red gearbox constantly lit but I could start the car and the gear box is in N for what i can see on the rod that should bee showing the hole straight up and down. The re-learn can't be done just because of the N must be lit and the software doesn't really check if it is. Just a dialog box telling me that it should be in N for a re-learn.

The battery is fresh and the reservoir tank has been emptied and refilled with fluid three times so there should be fresh liquid in the hole system. The APS has been replaced and that was a waste of time and money in my case.

I'm leaning to that the problem is some mechanical thing with the clutch that is heat related and has been that from when the problems began. Even a completely new gear box didn't fix the problem. The positive thing in all this is that i haven't spent a lot of money on the car. The APS is the only thing I've replaced. Don't remember what it cost but not more than $200 i think.

Leaving the keys to Toyota is an absolute last thing i would do because I'm not made of money! But maybe i have to do just that, let Toyota do it but I'm not there yet because I'm not depending on the Spyder for daily travel to work. I have a Saab 9000- 91 and a Kawasaki Z 750 LTD- 81 for daily travel.

Finally: this forum is just the best! My problems haven't been sorted out put the willing to help is what counts! :)
 

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P
...I'm leaning to that the problem is some mechanical thing with the clutch that is heat related and has been that from when the problems began.
Could the pressure plate be defective somehow - won't clamp down until things get hot in there? When you got the new transmission, did they replace the clutch disc and pressure plate? Or just toss the old parts back in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I asked them about the clutch and they said that they only payed attention to the gear box. The insurance company didn't pay for anything else.
 

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There have been improvements in the Software of the TCU ( trans Control Unit ).

You could look and see what TCU Software you have, and check to see if there is a Revision to it..

Cap
 

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Check the wires on your neutral sensor, if they're good you're probably going to have to get a new neutral sensor just to start your car(it shouldn't start if it cant find neutral). Also could be your other problem if you had a bad neutral sensor to begin with, since when that's thrown that sets the zero point for the friction tests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The neutral sensor seems brand new and came with the new gear box. The original problem with lurching was still present after the gear box replacment, well after a while it came back. It is i neutral and I can start the engine but no green N. I can try to shift manually with the rod at the back but that can't be done because the clutch seems to not operate. The actuator can be malfunctioning. One strange thing I saw when checking under the car was that the two visible bolts that secures the actuator wasn't fully screw in. Toyota maybe forgot that when they shifted the actuator to the new gearbox.

With the laptop i can make the N lit buy using a function that I forgot the name of now. Something about move something, actuator, clutch or something else. But after ignition off and on again the N stays off.
 

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Is the actuator moving the clutch repetitively when you turn the key to on, or just not moving at all? Repetitively I would think a clutch stroke sensor, not at all I imagine a link sub assembly. We've had a couple of people on here with loose pins in the link sub assembly that was causing them hell, to replace the entire part costs 50 dollars U.S.(stock#339060W010).

Any error codes being thrown during all of this? And you are disconnecting the laptop before trying to start the car normally correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
The actuator don't move at all. Have to get the hang of this link sub assembly. Can one get to it without separating the engine and gear box? No specific codes. Just "Clutch control system" and the read light. And for the laptop and software I should have it connected until when i'm supposed to drive away and let the n flash. It doesn't say that I should disconnect but I think that kind of obvious at that stage...
 

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You just lost me...

You are doing everything in page 19&20 of this for the correct durations (including disconnecting and reconnecting the battery terminals)? Pay special attention to page 20 where it says 'if N does not come on or blinks'. Those are the procedures you need to be doing.

The N flashing comes before the driving away part... let it sit and do its thing.

The actuator link sub assembly is underneath the little plate on the side of the GSU. It's on page 5 of the link above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What I'm referring to is what the software in the laptop told me to do. It worked one time and I drove the car. Next morning the N don't lit up.

I quote my self:
The software did what is supposed to do (beside that last thing of the N flashing after driving away at the end of the re-learn) and I also tried most functions like stating the HPU, engaging gears and other things, it just worked everything I did. But before i could drive away I had to rev up to 5 000 for the clutch to engage. After doing that reving for a while the clutch seemed to work as i should. The smell of a warm clutch was present.

Next morning the N didn't lit and the gear couldn't be engaged and the red gearbox constantly lit but I could start the car and the gear box is in N for what i can see on the rod that should bee showing the hole straight up and down. The re-learn can't be done just because of the N must be lit and the software doesn't really check if it is. Just a dialog box telling me that it should be in N for a re-learn.
I've done everything in your link to the letter but the actuator doesn't move at all now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)


Actuator disengeaged with that function in the tech stream software



Actuator engaged with that function in the tech stream software



Doesn't the rod seem to be a bit to far in? Maybe i remember wrong but I think that it was longer out before. It is in neutral in the picture and the car can be started in any positon of the gear selector, N, S or R. But nothing is displayed in the dash. If I put a screw driver in the hole I can make the gearbox not be in N and I can't start the engine.

I've done everything by the letter again today regarding re-learn and the use of the tech stream. I even clocked the time one should wait at certain points but still no N. I can make the N lit by move something with the software (forgot the name for it again). Something with moving from 0 - 63 mm. If I just move one mm the N lit up but after ignition off and on the N is off again.

What can I say? More than I think it's a software glitch or the clutch it self, well actually i don't know. I wonder what they can do at Toyota if they get the car. Do they have more sophisticated software for diagnosing than I have in my tech stream? I have no (zero) error codes. Must be something wrong that don't give any code when malfunctioning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have taken the decision now.

The cars is going to Toyota. I've made all I can do now for many weekends with software and checking different things. The N don't lit up and I wanna have the car driveable now when the warm weather arrives. I think there is some mechanical problem with the clutch and if so I don't change that my self out here in the gravel.

Back when the car is driveable.
 

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SMT Definition...

Seems
Mighty
Troublesome


Screwed
More
Times


Etc..

Wish I could help..

Cap
 

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SMT = Stranded Machine Towed...

I hope Toyota finds your problem Bosse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
After my brief description, when handing over the keys today, of what was wrong they are telling me that it's probably the clutch it self that has to be replaced. I also think the replay came rather quickly and that they knew that I would be back with the car ... They also told me that they, when I picked up the car after the gear box change on the warranty, that they said that there was some slipping when they test drove the car. And if i had told them that before they started to separate things they could have changed the clutch when the engine and gearbox already was apart and only have had to charge me for the clutch.

If they had told me anything of slipping when test driving I would have remembered. I just don't belive them! I also talked to my insurance company today that paid for the gear box change and he thought that if one knows that the car has been imported and driven in Germany (witch Toyota knows) where there are no speed limits on some highways, the gearbox is in pieces inside, the odometer shows 132000 km (80778 miles) it's strange that they didn't called me and asked if they should change the clutch. Instead they get paid for all the work of separating the engine and gearbox one more time. Further more: the same person at Toyota test drove my car a couple of months before the gear box change because I was complaining over some slipping from time to time. He told me then that the slipping should go away by it self.

$1 500 - 2 200 is the estimate I was told if the clutch has to be replaced. Well it's a lot of money but things are where they are and the car has to be driveable again. Then again they haven't looked into the car yet. Maybe it's just a software glitch ...
 
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