[FusionMRS]

I can see your view, but I wouldn't worry about it coming to market, it's nearly done. I'm just being picky about the LCD position/ hiding the bezel and moved the locking latches to be slightly tighter to minimize the gap between the front and back cover. I'm getting it to the look I want for myself and when I'm happy with that, I'll just reprint several more and get them packed for orders.

I mentioned 1 to 2 weeks because I wanted to pre-print 5-10 units before I offer them for sale and it'll give me time to see how the printer behaves with repeated prints. I think this will be a little different from other navpod threads that have post processes after the print for finishing so it's not going to depend on me having time to do the work per unit. It'll be more like print on demand.

You got to realize, I literally got my MR2 Pink in the mail today, had the car for a month and started this project 2 weeks ago. This week I'll run the wires/amp/speakers and subs and give it a go.

 

[dev]

Nice a Spyder with a system. I am about to install two light weight subs to my system that hit hard for its small size.

ABS is good but for something that will see heat and UV have you considered nylon. They have some very good nylons these days that compete in price to ABS and are easy to print. They offer excellent heat resistance and are temperature stable. They can also absorb dye for good color matching.

Regarding sharing of files. For simple prints fine but for using more complex shapes and materials good luck with that on an easy bake printer you bought online. I would rather buy from a person that has gone though the trouble to get their printer and slicer program to do it right with enough trial and error which is hard. It ends up being cheaper.

 

[k_swap_it]

ASA is another good alternative to ABS. It would be awesome to share the files, but it's inevitable that someone will steal your design and try to market it. I shared a battery tray design on here and then later found a member of this site trying to sell them on Facebook.

 

[FusionMRS]

Nice a Spyder with a system. I am about to install two light weight subs to my system that hit hard for its small size.

ABS is good but for something that will see heat and UV have you considered nylon. They have some very good nylons these days that compete in price to ABS and are easy to print. They offer excellent heat resistance and are temperature stable. They can also absorb dye for good color matching.

Regarding sharing of files. For simple prints fine but for using more complex shapes and materials good luck with that on an easy bake printer you bought online. I would rather buy from a person that has gone though the trouble to get their printer and slicer program to do it right with enough trial and error which is hard. It ends up being cheaper.

Nice! yeah doesn't seem right to have a project car without upgraded audio lol. I have a lifted Dodge Ram Hemi project truck that has two 10" kicker comp subs from early 2000s that I've passed from car to car. The Joying android unit I bought for the MRS is basically just a smaller version than what I have in my Dodge. Pretty decent radio units. Even connected a 360 camera system in the Dodge to the Joying Unit.

Ah I had just ordered an ASA 3KG spool, should be able to test with it next week. Hopefully prints like ABS. I had tried PETG when I first got the printer, but I didn't like how it printed. It seemed to not flow as well and was kind of this elastic glossy texture. I'll lookup some Nylon info. ABS is nice because it has good flow and prints fast. I just figured i'd give it a UV coat and it'd be fine.

 

[dev]

ASA is another good alternative to ABS. It would be awesome to share the files, but it's inevitable that someone will steal your design and try to market it. I shared a battery tray design on here and then later found a member of this site trying to sell them on Facebook.

Which is what people don't understand. I have shared files with owners that I know are not in the business of taking my work and then selling items. I let them know that even though you have the file it doesn't mean that the print will give you the same results once you put in the machine as there is a whole lot of other things involved unless you want Micky Mouse trinkets made of PLA from an easy back oven. Sadly a lot of non printer people are under the illusion that it just happens with a file and a machine.

 

[dev]

Nice! yeah doesn't seem right to have a project car without upgraded audio lol. I have a lifted Dodge Ram Hemi project truck that has two 10" kicker comp subs from early 2000s that I've passed from car to car. The Joying android unit I bought for the MRS is basically just a smaller version than what I have in my Dodge. Pretty decent radio units. Even connected a 360 camera system in the Dodge to the Joying Unit.

Ah I had just ordered an ASA 3KG spool, should be able to test with it next week. Hopefully prints like ABS. I had tried PETG when I first got the printer, but I didn't like how it printed. It seemed to not flow as well and was kind of this elastic glossy texture. I'll lookup some Nylon info. ABS is nice because it has good flow and prints fast. I just figured i'd give it a UV coat and it'd be fine.

I wished those android units could play 24bit Flac files but they dont. Most of them have optical outs which is great so I could feed it into a DSP amp from Audio control.
Most of my collection is now Flac and high resolution so I am stuck with a JVC unit that does not have a parametric EQ and very poor UI. This is why it is frustrating to see and operate the screen being so low.
Good to hear the kicker subs are working. A lot of the old stuff is very good before you got a lot of questionable budget stuff from China that is poor quality.

 

[jcX4ever]

It would be awesome to share the files, but it's inevitable that someone will steal your design and try to market it. I shared a battery tray design on here and then later found a member of this site trying to sell them on Facebook.

This ^ . I fully understand this. Creators deserve to make money from their designs.

I do share my designs on thingiverse but around 3 years ago, there's this one part that I needed and I cannot find this part anywhere (amazon, ebay, thingsiverse etc) so I designed my own. I wanted to share my 3D design as usual but I tried selling it on ebay first and to my surprise, it was selling like hotcakes. I made around $20k to date.. lol. and people still buy it. Sales slowed down this past few months because finally, there's an OEM part that came out.

I appreciate for sharing the idea and maybe if I have time to burn in the future, I will try to design my own Navpod too.

Things I will change basing from your design:

• I will try to make the screen closer to the driver so my T-Rex arms can reach it. Screen will be closer to the AC vent. I don't know if this will look good but I am trying to cater my own personal needs. lol
• Now that the screen is closer, I will make the rear slope gradual so it flows naturally. Newer head units do not have long rear anymore. The Atoto S8 I bought for the RAV4 is only 3 inch thick so it is possible to slope the rear early on.

 

[FusionMRS]

Latest print with ABS, closed the gap a bit more between the front and back cover, also adjusted lcd height and front lcd frames to hide the chrome bezel more. Just got in some ASA filament, so will start new test prints with the new filament.

 

[FusionMRS]

ABS left, ASA right. ASA does not print as dark as a black even though filaments are from the same vendor. On the ASA print you can see I've filled in the gap between the front and rear sections in the top corners. Even though the 3D model there is no gap, I had to over exaggerate the corners for it to print correctly. The ABS was printed before I made the corner correction. These gaps you wouldn't notice either way once installed.

I don't know if I like the ASA black color so I'll be running the ABS myself, maybe with just a UV coat or just leave it as it is. I think I'd rather have the darker ABS filament and over time maybe it fades to where the ASA black is now? lol. I'm still looking for a darker ASA filament, right now the current ASA is polymaker. ASA tends to be more finnicky? Still playing with settings for ASA, but I guess until I get it perfect, so far ABS still looks better to me.

 

[k_swap_it]

ABS left, ASA right. ASA does not print as dark as a black even though filaments are from the same vendor. On the ASA print you can see I've filled in the gap between the front and rear sections in the top corners. Even though the 3D model there is no gap, I had to over exaggerate the corners for it to print correctly. The ABS was printed before I made the corner correction. These gaps you wouldn't notice either way once installed.

I don't know if I like the ASA black color so I'll be running the ABS myself, maybe with just a UV coat or just leave it as it is. I think I'd rather have the darker ABS filament and over time maybe it fades to where the ASA black is now? lol. I'm still looking for a darker ASA filament, right now the current ASA is polymaker. ASA tends to be more finnicky? Still playing with settings for ASA, but I guess until I get it perfect, so far ABS still looks better to me.

View attachment 97614

They both look pretty good in the photos to be honest. You should probably be painting them either way to give it some UV protection.

 

[FusionMRS]

They both look pretty good in the photos to be honest. You should probably be painting them either way to give it some UV protection.

Thanks! The reason for ASA is because it already has UV protection vs abs. I will be offering both abs or Asa and whoever buys can do what they want.

 

[mztykal]

If you print one for 3 gauges plz let me know asap. I’ll order it. Looks fantastic!

 

[FusionMRS]

Ran the new wires for amp and radio. Compenents and subs next. Happy with how it turned out.

Also printing up some navpods in Asa and abs. Will post a link for purchase when ready if anyone is interested.

 

[mztykal]

if you make the gauge pod version or find a way to make an adapter for your current for gauges lmk!

 

[SpyderPBM]

Ran the new wires for amp and radio. Compenents and subs next. Happy with how it turned out.

Also printing up some navpods in Asa and abs. Will post a link for purchase when ready if anyone is interested.

View attachment 97619

Looking forward to this and will buy one when you are ready to post!

 

[FusionMRS]

Looking forward to this and will buy one when you are ready to post!

Soon! I'm setting up a link for purchase and also printing out copies of the navpod now. Just got a second printer in today to help speed up production.

 

[dev]

I know you got your hands full but I have started some research for you for the relocation of the double din navigation .

Here is the Midship Garage version.
Midship Garage - 00-05 Toyota MR2 Spyder, MR-S - Center Console

I know some people would be interested in that style but I feel its over the top. A simple swap would look a lot better in my opinion.

The HVAC face plate has insert tabs that push in and I think that could be the basis of making the face plate. Double dins are universal so it can work but if not then the floating screen would also be a good option.

I have an extra HVAC face plate that I can donate to you so you can cut up and measure to make this project viable.

 

[FusionMRS]

I know you got your hands full but I have started some research for you for the relocation of the double din navigation .

Here is the Midship Garage version.
Midship Garage - 00-05 Toyota MR2 Spyder, MR-S - Center Console

I know some people would be interested in that style but I feel its over the top. A simple swap would look a lot better in my opinion.

The HVAC face plate has insert tabs that push in and I think that could be the basis of making the face plate. Double dins are universal so it can work but if not then the floating screen would also be a good option.

I have an extra HVAC face plate that I can donate to you so you can cut up and measure to make this project viable.

Thanks! I was originally going to order from Midship until I did more research and it seems wait time was massive if customers got it, and hear the finish wasn't great, that's why I decided to try it out on my own.

Ah dang, thanks for the offer on the hvac plate but i had already ordered a face plate and extra controls for me to take measurements since I didn't want to disconnect mine since I still want to drive it lol.

I may try to make it so you can just relocate your existing climate controls, but it depends on what options I find or go with for new climate rings around the knobs.

 

[dev]

Thanks! I was originally going to order from Midship until I did more research and it seems wait time was massive if customers got it, and hear the finish wasn't great, that's why I decided to try it out on my own.

Ah dang, thanks for the offer on the hvac plate but i had already ordered a face plate and extra controls for me to take measurements since I didn't want to disconnect mine since I still want to drive it lol.

I may try to make it so you can just relocate your existing climate controls, but it depends on what options I find or go with for new climate rings around the knobs.

I wish you the best of luck on whatever solutions present themselves. I am certain that they will sell well and I would like to be first in line when they are ready for sale.

 

[psipwrd]

I'm torn between the nav pod and gauge pod. How securely does it attach? Is it rattle-free while driving? What are you doing with the original stereo location?