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Discussion starter · #85 ·
Ordered the pod and the matching or box filler. My question is did you have to extend the harness? And where can I get a radio harness long enough.
Yo! thanks! I've been drying out the filament for a few daya,will start printing tomorrow.

On mine I didn't touch the oem harness as I was planning to put another 10" screen where the climate controls are.

Since I ran new wires for an Amp,I had just ran power/gnd/rem with rca pairs to the navpod.

But you can get the toyota/mr2 radio harness on Amazon and when you are splicing the harness to the aftermarket radio harness, Just extend it at this point during splicing.
 
Yo! thanks! I've been drying out the filament for a few daya,will start printing tomorrow.

On mine I didn't touch the oem harness as I was planning to put another 10" screen where the climate controls are.

Since I ran new wires for an Amp,I had just ran power/gnd/rem with rca pairs to the navpod.

But you can get the toyota/mr2 radio harness on Amazon and when you are splicing the harness to the aftermarket radio harness, Just extend it at this point during splicing.
Gotcha thanks I'll buy 2 just in case. Did you have to remove the dash to run the wire or was it enough just opening the top vent? My stereo is coming Monday just wanna prep everything. Hopefully the joyo sounds good enough for now. I plan on doing a quick release sub later on then I'll get into the whole mess with the amp
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
Gotcha thanks I'll buy 2 just in case. Did you have to remove the dash to run the wire or was it enough just opening the top vent? My stereo is coming Monday just wanna prep everything. Hopefully the joyo sounds good enough for now. I plan on doing a quick release sub later on then I'll get into the whole mess with the amp
Here are some pics. I drilled a hole in the back drivers side and put a grommet. It made for a decently clean install.

The joying radios have a good dsp in them so sound has always been good. Ive probably had 5 different joying models over the years.



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Discussion starter · #89 ·
I visited your website, but didn't see a 3-gauge option. I'm looking specifically for an angled insert or that the pod faces the driver a little more. Is this an option? I have 3 AEM-X gauges and they have larger diameter bezels than other manufacturers.
Greetings, I made a one off print before I've done recently. You mean something like this? What size are the gauges?

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Greetings, I made a one off print before I've done recently. You mean something like this? What size are the gauges?
Yes, except it would be half the height, angled towards the driver a little more, maybe a few degrees, and the inner diameter of the AEM-X gauge is 2 1/16”, but I'm not sure about the outer bezel because I don't have the gauges with me right now, but it looks a lot like the center gauge in your photos.

It looks like if I had all 3 side by side, they would be very close and maybe wouldn't fit. Hard to tell without gauge in hand and for you to actually implement on your software.
 
I was working on a shorter version, kind of got sidetracked with another project. But as for the gauges fitting, if I had measurements of the rear gauge barrel and frame/front ring OD, I would just recreate it in the software to test fit.
The rear is a standard 2 1/16". The issue is the front ring OD. I would rough estimate 2.5" (x3 = 7.5" total width side-by-side), so maybe an 8.5+" panel with a 10-15° angle facing the driver. Not sure if that would work unless the gauges were cascaded.
 
Ya know, I don't really understand the rationale behind not sharing the files. It's one thing if you're making parts for, say, a Civic or GR86, but in the case of the Spyder, how many are you really going to sell? 20? I understand that you've spent a good bit of time so far, but in my experience you will actually spend far less time by sharing the file, because others will also sacrifice a good bit of time to improve your work. So, in the end, you will spend less time and have a better product. This is part of the reason there are so many almost/maybe navpod products. People think they're going to make some money and thus are not willing to share. But, life happens, and they realize they don't have time to perfect the product/don't have a good enough printer/setup to charge folks any real money.

For my part, I am currently scanning the factory gauge cluster and I will share freely (so folks can make their own enclosures for digital displays). If someone has access to a navpod I will also scan and release for free. It's not worth making $200 bucks, hell even a thousand bucks. I would rather just have a good product and quickly.
As someone who has shared a lot of 3d printer files in the past (non for a MR2 because I just got mine and was not into them before) I have to disagree with you on this. Everyone wants stuff for free. But for many things there is a lot of time and wasted materials that go into it to it. Then someone takes the free file and tells you you should have done it this way or you should change that or can you change it for this part. These people are getting your hard work for free and are not happy with it, yet they can't do it themselves. Aside from that many do not have printers large enough or capable of printing the project correctly. He printed this in ABS. Most people will have a problem printing in ABS because of warpage and the toxic smell that comes from it. The only other real choice is probably ASA as its not as toxic but still smells and warps. If your willing to replace it in time you could use a good quality PETg as long as you don't leave the car in the sun to often, It may hold up to the heat but in time the sun would break it down and it would get brittle.

I could make these file if I wanted to, Must people simply cant. But I would be happy to pay him for them knowing what's involved in making them. And would be even happier to buy the parts from him even though I have 2 printers that could print it. Its just not worth my time and dealing with ABS.
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
@FusionMRS what's the difference between the ATOTA and the custom fit? I'm looking at a PLZ and I'm wondering which navpod to order. Thank you sir.
Atoto is just the brand/model radio I used to fit the navpod to the front of the radio. Most 2din radios have a similar faceplate measurement but they are not all the same. 2din is just the general measurement of the bracket but the face of the radio can vary a few mm in size. Custom is if you don't intend on using the Atoto branded radio and have your own, but you will need to use digital calipers and or a spec sheet for the brand/model radio you want to use. I believe I posted what measurements the Atoto faceplate is on the website.
 
I want this but none of the radios you list (Joying models: JY-UQS03N4G, JY-UQS03N4G-B, JY-UQS03N4G-B-DA) seem to be available. The link you have as fitted for development comes up with JY-UZS03N4-B and that one clearly has a volume knob and I know I read that it should not. Do you have a list of more radios that fit. I want to make sure I can get the radio before ordering the mount from you. You did such a beautiful job with it that I don't want a radio that doesn't fit well.
 
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