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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I ended up getting new coilovers from S3 Suspension to replace the BC coilovers that were seized up. The new coilovers have a lot of additional adjustment on the front camber plates and also the lower strut mounts for both front and back. I'm confused on how I should set the lower strut mount bolts before getting an alignment.


Automotive tire Coil Household hardware Coil spring Gas


The RED ARROW above points to the upper bolt slotted openings on the new coilovers. When I was installing the rears today I played with the min and max "swing" of those slotted holes. I must have taken the rear wheels off 5 times trying to see if I could visully get my rear wheels to 0° camber and it took forever. The left and right side don't respond to the same amount of angle because the other attached suspension parts seem to multiply the amont of change I make. They they affect eachother.

Which is why I'm asking: Is it better to keep that slot pushed towards one of the extremes (and get an alignment based on those settings)? I ask because I want to make adjustments to other suspension parts (bushings) in the future - it would be difficult to line up the exact spots I bolted those down every time.

I honestly don't know anything about how alignments actually work beyond the coilover. If I max out neg camber on the rears, does that change the total amount of camber and toe that can be dialed back using the just links? I don't plan on any more than -3° on either front of rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The alignment shop will probably adjust that upper bolt depending on how much camber you want. Let us know your impressions of the s3’s 👍🏽
That's the thing. Let's say I want to remove the coilovers to work on other parts of the car. I have to pull out a ruler, mark exactly where it was bolted, and hope that I nail the exact spot when I reinstall them? There is no better way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mark the parts before you take them out and reinstall them using the marks as a guide....
I was hoping that wouldn't be the answer but somehow knew that it would be.

These coilovers have A LOT more adjustment than the BCs. More height adjustment, 4-hole + wider camber plate slots, and the lower strut mount bolts. On just the rears I can get a ridiculous amount of camber without trying. I can't imagine maxing out the front strut mount + camber plates. The wheel would be riding on the inside rim.
 

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How do people repair and remove their coilovers on track days without disrupting their whole alignment then?
Depending on the resources of a team / competitor, they could go from "don't touch it other than damping" to a full set up pad with camber gauges and toe tools which could be simple string lines, to full alignment equipment. Even a small change in camber will change the toe, and it is nearly impossible to take anything apart and get it back the same even if it is marked.
 

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f1 uses string alignments, if done properly more accurate than a machine.

I run S3's. the rear slot camber adjustment I could get almost -5 degrees, so somewhere in the middle is fine until you get to the shop. for my use and monitoring tire temperature and wear, I ended up at -3.5 degrees in the rear. use a paint marker and trace around the strut bolt after the alignment, then if you need to remove anything, you just make sure the bolt is in the circle when you put it back together

with my rear camber at -3.5 degrees I dial toe back into 4mm total toe in, stock arms have enough adjustment

on the front i run -3 degrees camber and 0 toe, I make most of my front camber adjustment at the strut mount and fine tune with the camber plate ( i am also using spc camber bolts in front) you will get better camber gain in compression if your camber adjustment is made at the strut mount
 

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No way to keep alignment the same after cracking those strut bolts loose. Best you could do is mark it like everyone said. If you could get the camber you want with the strut maxed that imo would have less risk of slippage I think.

What spring rates you guys with the s3 get? I can’t decide between fortune autos, meister or maybe s3? Anything made you pick these instead of others?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No way to keep alignment the same after cracking those strut bolts loose. Best you could do is mark it like everyone said. If you could get the camber you want with the strut maxed that imo would have less risk of slippage I think.

What spring rates you guys with the s3 get? I can’t decide between fortune autos, meister or maybe s3? Anything made you pick these instead of others?
Thanks for the advice.

I got 6k front 9k rear. They are firm but "smoother" than my 5k/7k BC and I think it has a lot to do with the age of the BC's. I went with S3 because they are a 30 minute drive from me. Paid cash, no shipping or tax. Also, they are a small company that seems to actually care about the Spyder? Better than a large company that has to be begged to make parts for us imo.
 

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No way to keep alignment the same after cracking those strut bolts loose. Best you could do is mark it like everyone said. If you could get the camber you want with the strut maxed that imo would have less risk of slippage I think.

What spring rates you guys with the s3 get? I can’t decide between fortune autos, meister or maybe s3? Anything made you pick these instead of others?
I do it all the time, also do my own alignments drawing a circle around the bolt works a little better than a line. putting it back together like that alignment is close enough not to notice.

I am on 7k/12k rates with S3's (I also live 45 minutes from fortune and they are always sponsoring local events and giving discounts and I still won't run their coilovers, too many locals with horror stories... best part about them is the warranty)

something to keep in mind when choosing spring rates, if you are using arms that have spherical bearings this will cause spring rates to feel stiffer as their no compliance like there is with rubber and poly.

using full superpro bushings with the 7k/12k is very compliant on the street, however if I daily drove the car I think 6k/9k would be a lot nicer.

I chose s3 because I have built hundreds of cars and the coilover choices were extremely lacking for this chassis (especially for something good, tons of low end stuff) when I was ready to purchase, these checked all the boxes for features and quality, it was developed and tested by someone that actually owned the chassis and the price was right.
 

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If its a street car then don't overdo it. Coilovers for the spyder work better with helper springs specially in the rear. The helper springs are 2kg which is about the same rate as stock spyder springs.

Also a good idea to add roller bearing to front specially with stiffer springs. It will improve steering and reduce noise, specially spring clunk when turning.

If you look at the S3 closely they have nothing between the top or bottom spring seat and the spring. The BC have a rubber spacer. Ideally there should be a teflon washer. So they need a roller bearing even more so.

Don't overdo the camber on a street car. It will just tram line, and wear tires for no added benefit.

If you remove the struts then ye you will need another alignment. The arms, strut bolts, tow all have some movement so even if you mark everything it will still not be exactly the same.
 

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S3 has spherical bearing in the top hat

my rears had enough droop that no helper spring needed, front did not have 1/3 travel droop so added hyperco helper springs that do not have a spring rate like TENDER springs.
 

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I still won't run their coilovers, too many locals with horror stories... best part about them is the warranty)

I chose s3 because I have built hundreds of cars and the coilover choices were extremely lacking for this chassis (especially for something good, tons of low end stuff) when I was ready to purchase, these checked all the boxes for features and quality, it was developed and tested by someone that actually owned the chassis and the price was right.
Interesting, I don't know much about FA. Spill the beans, what horror stories? I mean they also did kinda stumbled a bit on the first iteration of spyder coilovers but all seem to be fixed by now.

Yeah I'm mainly interested to find out how the damping compares to FA or Meister. I did notice they didn't make many applications and mostly were honda except for the spyder. Seems like a small shop dedicated to what they own which is good.
 

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I guess not "horror stories" but quality is not that great, everyone I have heard that runs them has to use the warranty and they almost always reject warranty claims. You pay a fee up front for them to inspect it, they try to reject the warranty and talk you into buying a new damper almost always..

I heard about the stories with fitment on these cars, and the bone heads still have camber plates on the rear even though you cant use them unless you cut up your shock tower. They don't do real R&D everything is done on a computer, that's why they didn't know that the subaru camber plates they tried to recycle didn't fit.

500 series is basically a BC BR... all the parts are made in taiwan, shipped to virginia, and assembled by some american guy with a hangover.

The 510's aren't that bad, but if you are spending that much money there are better options
 
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