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New Member New to me Spyder

31K views 419 replies 38 participants last post by  Mr2salty 
#1 · (Edited)
I’m fairly new to the forum. I bought a 2001 white spyder from a guy at the transmission shop for $1400. Guess what? It needs a transmission and other stuff. Also- it’s got less than 4000miles on the new motor

The bad:
Top - 10/18 GARZAS AND SUMMIT
Seats - 10/18 GARZAS
Smelly carpet - UPDATE: fixed with a new top GARZAS and Summit
Bad trans - 3/19 SC
Bad axles - 3/19 rock auto
2 codes for MAF - 3/19 SC
Misfire in 2&4 every now and then (injectors/coils/plugs)- 3/19 SC and pep boys plugs
Missing top left trans mount - 3/19 SC
Missing engine cover - 3/19 SC
Shift knob - 4/19 M-moto (same as the good radiators)
Shift boot - cleaned up ok 3/19
Parking brake trim - found in console 3/19
Worn steering wheel -
Dents in the front left fender and rear right fender - Currently working on myself
Rear and Front bumper needs to be re-fitted for weird body gaps - why won’t it snap in?
Radio doesn’t work - 4/19 crutchfield
O2 sensor heater - 4/19 rock auto
Top Straps and Springs -
Needs paint -
Weather stripping is bad - 5/19 eBay used. I’m not sure if I’m doing these right. I’m still getting gaps.
3rd Brake light mounts are broken -


Plans:
This is a long term project
I’m getting a new top and seats. It’s been dropped off to a local skilled upholstery guy.
I’m looking for a LSD - giving up on it 1/19
I’ll buy axles here or on rock auto
lightweight flywheel (maybe)
I’m planning on doing a tuneup (plugs, coils, injectors) with the MAF mod.
I want to try an android head unit and powered sub mounted somewhere stealthy
Not sure on the steering wheel, shift boot, parking brake yet.
Not sure about the small dents either. - waiting on a good paycheck and starting a PDR service 1/19

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Sports car Product
 
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#3 ·
Based on the PM you sent to me and reading the rest of this thread it is very likely that this car was flooded.
Water in the transmission, misfire codes and smelly carpet point to mold from a flooded car.
What you need to do now is investigate if the car was involved in a partial flood.
If so I would change all of your plans and start working though restoring the damage caused by the flood.
 
#6 ·
Guys the smelly carpet is from the top. I could see daylight in at least 6 spots before I took it to get replaced. It’s been raining for almost 6 weeks straight. The carpet has been wet when I’ve been checking.

There are no electrical issues and I asked the owner and shop if it was in a flood. Both have said that it wasn’t in a flood. The shop wasn’t interested in selling the car and didn’t have anything to gain from lying about the car being in a flood. The smell started after I took the car home. It’s not in a garage anymore.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for looking and talking about the project. It’s a long term project and this was the fastest I could get a top in. I’m gonna get the car water proof ASAP.

I’m planning to do the MAF mod after it’s back at a friends driveway. I’ll be storing trans parts and getting it driving good in about 4-6 months.
 
#8 ·
Welcome to Spyder-dom? You're taking on quite a project, and I applaud you for it. There are a lot of knowledgeable people in your area, don't be afraid to reach out to them...we are a good community!

Good luck!
 
#9 ·
Welcome to SpyderChat and the land of permagrin.

Welcome to SpyderChat and the land of permagrin.

Below is some information that you may find helpful. I think I will post this info in all of the new member threads as they are started. I think it is helpful information and worth repeating so when new folks sign-up or others are lurking, at least the information stays in front of new eyes. I only mention this in case you have seen it before.

For some tasty looking aftermarket-that-looks-like-OEM-stuff, checkout dev's website at
www.keytechniques.net

For info on buying a used Spyder, check out this thread by OldMan:
http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/sho...-Buyer-s-Guide

Here is another excellent thread started by Samxerxesn that I highly recommend reading:
http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?130922-Info-for-New-and-Future-Spyder-Owners

The search function on SpyderChat is not the best, but at the moment, it may be all we've got (besides google, etc.) . I am not certain if SpyderSearch.org is currently functioning, but you may want to give it a try. If/when it works, it provides a much better search experience that also includes threads from other MR2 Spyder sites:
www.spydersearch.org

You will probably have to make about 10 thread posts before you can post pictures . . . so drop on into some of the threads and say hello, share your 2 cents worth and after about 10 of those, come on back to this thread and post some pics of your new-to-you spyder. Here is link on how to post pictures:
http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?23004-How-to-post-a-picture


Here is a link to a vendor who is fairly new to us, but the reports from other members have been very favorable for shift knobs and MR2 keychains:
https://super-klasse.com/

Once again, Welcome to SpyderChat at the land of permagrin.

 
#10 ·
I keep posting updates on the wrong threads. Here’s what’s new-

Moldy smell is gone. It’s been in the upholstery shop with the windows down and seats out.

Seats are 80% done. I went a tan color and cool grain.

Top is 98% done. It’s been in the 50s-60s all week and raining. My upholstery guy is get-off-my-lawn old school and only finishes installing tops in warm sunlight because he says any other way won’t make the top last as long.

New c63 trans on the way.

Devs last door bushings came in today. They’re translucent. I didn’t expect it but I wasn’t happy about how hollow and cheap the doors fit. It was like closing an aluminum can. I think they’ll give me the quality thud sound I want when I close them.

The car will probably sit until next year before I pull the trans and do the 6 speed swap with a new clutch and light flywheel and solid bushings. Can someone link a how to thread for that?

I’m planning on a MAF mod before I do the trans. I’ll do an oil change and tune up the same time.

I’d like to do some bracing before this time next year. What braces make the most difference?

I’m trying to decide if I want to get the factory rims powder coated before I get everything else done. I’m thinking copper or gun metal or something in between. If you could take your car apart to get something else powder coated what would you do? Should I get bracing before I powder coat the rims so I can get it done at the same time?

I talked to the bank today about getting financing to build my shop. Real man stuff is happening once that’s up.
 
#11 ·
We haven’t had sun in about 2 weeks. It’s been cloudy and/or raining every damn day. I’m not a fan because I live 1hr from the surf right now and I can’t catch jacks everyday on topwaters after work.

My seats are done and he’s waiting on the sun to finish the top. We might have sun tomorrow but we’re supposed to have sun this weekend. I’ll pick my car up Monday.

My transmission should ship next week.

I’ve been doing research and I have questions as a new guy-
1. What bracing does the most in stiffening the car?
2. If I go with a PPE or MWR cold air intake, is it better than the MAF mod? Should I still do the next size injectors? Should I make a spacer for these cold air intakes?
3. When I convert my 5 speed to a 6- should I use the parts from MWR? What color should I paint the trans?
4. Is there a YouTube video showing how the shift boot snaps in? It’s making me feel differently abled.
5. If my parking brake looks rough, should I buy a used one off eBay or buy a boot or cover for it?
6. How easy is it to get the door card insets in pieces? I’d like to change some to a peanut butter vinyl.
 
#12 ·
From my experience:
1. FSTB and Corky's Breast Plate are good places to start for bracing.
2. The MAF mod works well with the OEM intake, change something and you are on your own.
3. I had a shop cover the door insert fabric surrounding the interior latch, it works fine.
No opinion on the other items.
 
#17 ·
Wow. Cars interior is much better. Seats are better than I expected and the top is perfect. He even did the doors how I was going to do them.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Convertible Sports car

Vehicle Tire Car Rim Auto part


I highly recommend Mike Garza in Corpus Christi. He’s been doing this his entire life. He’s a second generation upholstery professional. He’s closed up his shop and works from home now.
Total cost was 1050.
 
#19 ·
My c63 six speed come in today. I’ve got it at my office because I’m moving this week and I can’t work on my car.

As soon as I can I’ll take off the shift linkage. Should I pull out the shift shaft now? Is there a list of parts I’ll need?

I want to clean it up and paint it aluminum with a clear coat to protect it from oxidizing. When is best for me to get it done? Before or after I make it fit in the mr2?
 
#20 · (Edited)
Here’s a list of parts I was told I need to get for the 6 speed swap with OEM PART NUMBERS -
33261-17101 (shifter shaft)
33506-17101 (cover sub-assembly control/reverse block out)
Doorman 555-117 (28mm expansion plug)
Clutch-
31210-17041 (pressure plate)
31230-12191 (release bearing)
31250-12360-84 (clutch disc)
31204-17010 (release fork) also used to get axles out quick and easy

My missing transmission mount-
12372-22040 (left)

Here’s the link that was sent to me on converting the transmission- https://www.spyderchat.com/forums/index.php#/topics/112210

Still need to get stuff for MAF mod and the MAF/coils/plugs/injectors

Before that I’m getting the exhaust manifold gaskets. I’ll replace the ones if my precats are intact. I’ll post pictures of the view from the o2 sensors removed.

I want to get the light flywheel but I might get this one recut and balanced at the machine shop.

That should cover my maintenance.
 
#21 ·
I sold my Bimmer and paid my rent so I have some cash to get the MR2 going. First question- How many cars can you sell in a year before the gov starts asking about why you’re selling so many cars?

I found a part out thread and will scavenge the MAF, injectors, coils, motor mounts, engine cover and some more parts.

I’ll be getting the transmission parts ordered next week.

The battery was dead the last 2 times I drove it so I may pull it out and charge it. Later I’ll get a Lithium battery. Should I get a new belt and alternator?.

Feel free to message me for anything cool like badges, steering wheel badges, center caps, shift knob, or parking brake surround. I’m scared to get a lighter flywheel. I’ll try driving it with the normal one for awhile.

Anything else I should try to do?
 
#23 ·
...The battery was dead the last 2 times I drove it so I may pull it out and charge it...

... Should I get a new belt and alternator?
It is a good bet that your battery is scrap. That is usually the case if you find it dead for no reason. No harm in charging it, but you wouldn't want to rely on it to get you home.

The belt, sure, if you don't know how old it is. The alternator would depend on whether it is a factor in your battery failing. If you had a new battery that went dead without an obvious cause, then the alternator is the main suspect.
 
#25 ·
#34 ·
So I degreased my new to me transmission. Here’s what I found-
Auto part Tire Automotive wheel system Engine Vehicle

What’s the replacement Toyota part number for this?
Auto part Turtle Tortoise

Is this bearing OK?
Shadow Fictional character

This looks like some kind of plug. Can you help me with the Toyota part number?

I’m taking the linkage off today and roughing it up with some wire wheels before primer and paint. I’m thinking it’ll be gold. Let me know what you think about painting aluminum to keep it from oxidizing
 
#35 ·
This is what I got in today-

Engine cover
All motor and transmission mounts
Flywheel
Clutch
Pressure plate

This is what I got from MWR-
Brass shifter bushings
Plug for shifter shaft

I’m still waiting on some parts from Toyota to come in-
Shifter shaft
Reverse lock out
Plug

Based on this and the pictures above, what else do I need to order from Toyota?
 
#36 ·
Axle seals, OEM throw out bearing and 3 quarts of Amsoil GL4 transmission fluid.
Don’t substitute with Redline mt90 as the Amsoil in my opinion and those that have used both found it to be superior.

Also I would only use locktite moly grease for the splines.
 
#40 ·
No problem. I’m not entirely sure since it’s been many years since I removed my shifter shaft.
It could be part of the mechanism that holds and releases the shifter shaft or just a vent.
I would download the service manual and do some investigation or have the dealer locate the part on the diagram to see if has a replacement part.
 
#41 ·
It’s probably a vent. It’s leaking and it’s definitely 2 pieces because it moves like a breather/vent.

On the toguetime YouTube video about the 6 speed conversion he removes that big bolt besides it but he doesn’t touch this brass piece.

Thanks again.
 
#43 · (Edited)
So guys,

My copper ring that is on one side of the shifter shaft bent when I was getting it out. What is that part number?

This is what’s left on my transmission check list-
Right axle seal
Left axle seal
Throw out bearing
Left axle boot
Right axle boot
Amsoil GL4
Moly grease

I need these tools for the trans swap-
Taller jack stands
Engine support bridge - see franks (merryfrankster’s) video
My friends trans jack
The long metric bolts to make rails to take off and put on the new transmission (also from the frank Saab YouTube video)

Guys on the forum, I read what you’ve done. I look at the YouTube channels to check how to do everything. Huge thanks.

All week I’ll be wire wheeling this trans until it’s completely chalk free for primer and paint. This weekend is supposed to be in the 30s so I’m not going outside.
 
#44 ·
I’m not 100% confident on 2 things I’ve done on the transmission
1. I pulled that copper piece out and damaged it. I Don’t think it’s necessary according to this thread - https://www.spyderchat.com/forums/s...g-only-Toyota-parts-(with-pics)#/topics/59706 see step 6. It looks like the plug is put straight into the housing without that brass piece. What sealant did you use on your plug?

2. After I pulled the brass piece out the next step is to tap in some piece inside 10-12mm further. I don’t know what the measurement should be from the outside of the trans to the piece I tapped in. How necessary is this step anyway? I tried to put it in all the gears but I’m not 100% that I’m finding reverse. Where is reverse- pushing, pulling and bell housing down is it rotation up or down?

I’m documenting everything because this is all new to me. Any help is appreciated
 
#47 · (Edited)
Huge thanks man!

My local Toyota shop didn’t have any of the parts I needed. I bought some gasket maker from them for my plug and came home to polish this trans.
Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Automotive engine part


I’ll order the rest of the parts soon. My plan is to clean the dust off and clean the trans up with oven cleaner and water before primer and paint.

Is the clutch alignment tool necessary? I just don’t want to spend money on a tool I’ll use 1 time. Does someone have one I can borrow? I’ll pay shipping and shipping to send it back.

The plug I need for the shifter shaft is 38mm.


Edit- please search for the Service manual. I’m not supposed to post it here but it’s a big help.

Woo woo
 
#48 ·
I may have my line up tool laying around somewhere. But shipping two directions may cost more than the $4 tool were talking about. Are you reusing your current clutch? Most of the time new clutches come with the tool.
Also, I've used a deep socket that fits snugly through the clutch disk on multiple vehicles. Works just fine for me. Even if it is off by 1mm or 2, it won't be once the splines go through it. And definitely won't be once the engine has turned with the clutch engaged.
 
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