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Discussion Starter #181 (Edited)
I gotta get this thing off my axle. Thinking the old clutch fork might get it off. Are there any tricks? Frank you out there?
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Edit: it’s off. There’s clips on both sides of this bracket and after some brake cleaner, wd40 and hammer taps. It came free
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Guys, OCTOBER 2 2018 was the day I bought my spyder. Over 20k miles, 1 transmission and not much else later I’m so happy with my buy. Best car I’ve ever owned.
Started paint today on parts. Engine cover - purple. X brace - white. Heat shield - black.
After I do the brake bleed - calipers - purple.
After pics-
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Pi
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The light is doing stuff to my pics. I’m in the garage at 1:14am. That’s the most color I have in a pic of the engine cover. All the other pictures I sent were so reflective it looked black and mirrored.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
Well I’ve got an update and useful information.

The heat shield bolts are m8. The ones on top are longer than the ones that attach lower.

I bought a 4lb dead blow, snap ring pliers, and a brake bleeder from Harbor Freight. I want to bleed the brakes even though they don’t feel soft because I have new pads and rotors. This is also because I will be painting the calipers. I don’t want to get brake fluid on my paint.

The dead blow is for the drivers side axle removal. I’m hoping to get it out today. The other use for it is pushing in new axle seals. I’m using different size pvc couplings as the pushing tool. I bought 1”, 1-1/4” and 1-1/2” because I’m not sure what size.

ill take pictures of progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
I achieved NOTHING TODAY.

I got home at 5:30 and beat and pryed and rotated the axle for almost 2 hours. I can barely hold up my arms anymore. The axle didn’t move but it has a lot more battle scars. I am pissed off.
 

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I achieved NOTHING TODAY.

I got home at 5:30 and beat and pryed and rotated the axle for almost 2 hours. I can barely hold up my arms anymore. The axle didn’t move but it has a lot more battle scars. I am pissed off.
A dead blow hammer is not the best .... a 2-3 lb steel hammer gives it a better jar . You need a big chisel to get as much angle and it goes in the grooves on the axle hub . There's two bolts on the trans it lays nicely in between . A couple whacks and rotate the axle and whack it again .... it will come out in about 2 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter #188

gonna try this above the subframe. Except I can’t find my old clutch fork

phat- totally agree on the dead blow. It’s too damn big. Not sure which 2 bolts you mean.
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Here’s a picture from an importer
 

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You can rent a ball joint separator/pickle fork from autozobe for nothing to use if you can't find a clutch fork. My go to is a 4lb hammer....Thor style, none of that deadblow crap (when I need a softer hit i use the handle or put a hockey puck on what I'm hitting). Deadblow hammers have their time & place but as a rule of thumb if it requires a hammer & it's not coming out you can only hit it harder or in a different spot
 

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Discussion Starter #190
The big one on the left is like the one I use .... mine isn't neon green though .

Purchased this kit and a 4lb sledge. Hammers were selling out fast at the local HF.
The HF also had tie rod and ball joint forks on sale for 7$ each. Didn’t grab one yet. When I start on the f250 I’ll buy those.

The dead blow was for the pvc couplings to push in the new seals. The new seals don’t stick out as much. I’ll get pictures whenever I get the axle out
 

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Discussion Starter #191
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success. This is how I had it lined up.
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It has a lot more character after fighting me 3-4 days
 

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Cool .... so how long did it take with the chisel ? Think I'm going to buy some of those neon green ones ..
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Cool .... so how long did it take with the chisel ? Think I'm going to buy some of those neon green ones ..
6 hits. Practically 1 min. Used 4lb sledge and the chisel you talked me into.
HUUUUUGE TIP ON INSTALLATION OF DRIVERS SIDE AXLE BUSHING-

Use this plumbing adapter. It fits perfect 2” to 3/4 pvc adapter
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Use a 1-1/2 pvc coupling to install the passenger side seal
 

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Discussion Starter #194
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Don’t forget to put this clip on before you put the carrier piece on. That way it snaps in quick with little effort or tools.

Axle seals are in. I know what I did wrong. I pushed them in too far the first time around. It didn’t really leak until it dumped out half of the fluid in about 11 miles. Be careful and check out the repair manual.

So here’s where I am today- seals and axles back in. Suspension is bolted in loosely and the carrier is loosely bolted together. All hardware is attached to the car.

I’m going on a trip, but next week when I get back I’m bleeding brakes, prepping the calipers and painting them to match the engine cover. After they sit for a day the calipers are coming back off and new powerstop brake kit goes on.

if you’ve never done brakes like this before You will need some stuff.
1-2 cans of brake cleaner.
either cube brake tool or big needle nose pliers
14mm socket and extension or
14mm wrench if you want
Bleeder wrench
Anti seize
New brake fluid (I don’t like using an open can)

Caliper Paint Prep:
Brake clean aerosol
90% alcohol
Steel wool Coarse
VHT or Engine enamel primer
VHT or Engine enamel paint
Tape
Trash bags/drop cloth and masking materials.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
Worked on the spyder again today. All nuts on the suspension except axle nuts are tight. Why not? Because I’m gonna pour some gear oil in it to make sure it’s not leaking.
Also, brake calipers have been scuffed up good with steel wool. I’ll clean them tomorrow and see if they need more sanding before priming and paint.
Pics for proof:
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Guys, if you’re changing brakes and you drive hard you should change out that dark brake fluid if you never have. I used a brake bleeder from harbor freight. Here’s my set up-
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I’m using Amsoil brake fluid. Don’t forget to clean up your brake hardware and re grease your slider pins. My kit came with new boots and slider bushings with their grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
I wanted to remove those brake dust shields and clean them up. I may just do it on the car tomorrow. Gotta pick up a gallon of simple green too.
 

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Discussion Starter #197
I thought I was just gonna finish up today but I spent a lot of time degreasing the back of the car. I now have a new project idea For when I do any major work on the spyder. This sub frame looks terrible. It’s just so bad. Why is it gray with dark glue? Is that normal?
Next big project is stripping it down and painting it. That’s a long time from now.

Im really big on degreased suspension parts and transmissions. They don’t need to be dirty and you don’t have to be dirty from working on them. Since I had an axle leak I wanted all the grime and oil off so I can check for new leaks. Since it’s the easiest to see- this is how my Calipers and brake dust shields look now.
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Yes I am going to put antiseize on those hubs, yes I’ll properly tighten the axle nuts and stake them.

Still planning a day to paint the calipers. Should I paint calipers with new rotors on or off? I’ll spend a day prepping and another hour painting them on the car. I’ll take pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #200
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F5D39C11-4F2A-4471-99C5-F7CA52AD41DE.jpeg


threads are bad on one side of my heat shield/header. Probably gonna just put a self tapper there or get a tap and do it right. I need a few metric taps.

I got a new thing to do Sunday or Monday.
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Phats brace. It’s heavy so it’s strong? Feels strong. I’ll pull up on a set of ramps and change this out. I still need to get a from strut bar.

I really need to do the caps maf mod. What are y’all doing for spacers now? 1/4” right?? I’m buying injectors off rock auto soon.

I bought a set of greens in the beginning with a bunch of parts because I didn’t know they were the originals. I guess I have a spare set. I didn’t open them except to take a picture for the members market to sell them. I was quick to find out what I did.
 
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