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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
I have an update. The engine is being delivered on 8/16. My parts from MWR are here at my house.

I listed my garage couch (damn rightI have one. It reclines too) on Craigslist and my OEM wheels and tires. Those could add to my budget.

I have $900 left in my budget right now. I have 2 other upgrades I’m thinking about. Weigh in if you care to:
BC BRs
LSD and MWR install kit

Another thing I was looking at is this-
Would it make my shifter feel better? It’s got solid links. It’s hard to explain why it feels bad.
83798
 

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I have an update. The engine is being delivered on 8/16. My parts from MWR are here at my house.

I listed my garage couch (damn rightI have one. It reclines too) on Craigslist and my OEM wheels and tires. Those could add to my budget.

I have $900 left in my budget right now. I have 2 other upgrades I’m thinking about. Weigh in if you care to:
BC BRs
LSD and MWR install kit

Another thing I was looking at is this-
Would it make my shifter feel better? It’s got solid links. It’s hard to explain why it feels bad.
View attachment 83798
This looks like the Innovative shifter conversion for the KSwap. This could not possibly be used on a Toyota transmission.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
This looks like the Innovative shifter conversion for the KSwap. This could not possibly be used on a Toyota transmission.

Dave
Thanks. Watching some videos from YouTube and I think I’ll be more patient on the linkage install this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 · (Edited)
Deciding if I should start the Mr2Salty JDM motor install thread or add it to this thread. Might as well be on this one. It’s gonna be step by step with hand tools in a garage with no lift.

Step 1: Get your JDM engine. I bought mine after looking for a week. I chose the one in the thread because of the reviews and how they treated the engine.

Step 2: Take it home
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have a friend help you unload it.

Step 3: This is where I’m at. You need an engine stand to put your engine on. You’ll also need bolts. For the one I’m using you’ll need (5) bolts I think M12x1.25 (2) at 80mm long (3) at 90-100mm long and 2 nuts. The longer ones are to rotate the engine on the stand or lock it in place and (2) of them will use nuts to secure the engine to the stand. The other 2 can thread the engine stand to the block. I’ll post pictures.

You also need 2 friends to help you put it on the stand, drink beer and criticism about the motor you bought.
Motor Porn:
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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
Step 4: Strip down. Remove the exhaust and carefully remove the wire harness. The exhaust manifold probably doesn’t fit the spyder. The wire harness was probably cut, but you want to remove it in 1 piece. This is the bare minimum you’ll need to do. If you’re swapping in different injectors this is the time to do it.

Note: My blown engine is still in my spyder. I haven’t removed parts from It yet. I didn’t remove the JDM dipstick yet. My dipstick is still on my blown motor in my car. I also didn’t disconnect the fuel line yet. I will be sticking tape over the exhaust ports.
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Well, after the "Motor porn" pics and then "Step 4: Strip down" I wasn't sure where you might go with this thread. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
Took inventory on my parts I have.

Decided to return the MWR water pump. Also found out the UD pulley doesn’t fit the 1zz water pump, so I bought it for no reason. What’s the advantage to change the 1zz water pump to a 2zz?

Anyway with these parts returned I’m waiting to have about $200 back in my budget.

I’m taking a motor mount bolt to a machinist supply house in town to get a tap to chase the threads.

Another parts update: I purchased yellow injectors from the forum but they were accidentally sent to California. I’m in no rush to get them here because they go in when this tank of gas is empty. That’ll take another 200 miles on the new motor (once it’s installed).

I’m getting 1/4” plastic for my MAF spacer from a buddy’s business’s trash can and then I need 2 longer screws. If 3/8” is better than 1/4” just let me know. I’ll document that part getting cut. If I have extra plastic I’ll make a few more.

Works gonna be rough this week so I need a slower day to work on the car.

I was thinking with the extra budget I may buy BC BRs. I may wait for a better time of year. I had 2 checks that weren’t as big as I hoped. I also want to pick up an inverter generator for the house in case a hurricane is coming to the same way Harvey did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
My passenger side outside door handle busted off over a year ago and I finally fixed it. Tools needed:
Knife or small flathead screwdriver
Flat trim tool
#2 Philips head screwdriver any length
Needle nose pliers
#10 socket 1/4” drive
1/4” x6 or 8” extension




Step 1: open the door and locate the screw head covers. 2 are on the ends of the silver door pull. Pop the cover off the top and front of the door pull and remove the armrest. Remove both screws.

there are 2 more screw covers. They are by the door handle in a small square cover. You need a knife or small screwdriver to pry this open. Same with the last cover in the very top front of the door. (Round circle).

Step 2: Remove these 4 screws. Store them somewhere special.

Step 3: Trim tool time. We’re taking the door panel off. There are white snap ins holding it on from the bottom and it’s rolled over the top of the door near the window.

Insert the trim tool in the door near the front between the panel and the paint. Move it down the door and try to pull the panel off the door. It should start popping off. Save the trim around the door open handle by pulling the handle (like you’re opening the door). You need it to be in this position when you remove the door panel.

You should be done in 10 mins or less.

Step 4: remove any white clips from the door and place them back in the door trim. Use needle nose pliers. They have to be placed back in the door trim to replace the trim.

Step 5: remove the old outside door handle. Look inside the door to the handle. There are 3 10mm bolts holding it to the car. Remove all 3. There is an access hole for the screws holding the door lock. To remove the linkage look for the off white linkage plastic on the door open rod and the red/pink linkage plastic on the lock linkage. You just pull these plastics away from the linkage. It makes sense when you look at it.

Step 6: remove the door handle from the outside of the car. This took me the longest. It really bonded to the skin of my car. I put hands on each side and wiggled it out.

Step 7: put the new handle in place. Attach linkage for the opening and locking and 3 screws to the handle.

Step 8: put the door trim back on with the snaps and tighten screws. Put the covers back on. You’re done. This all can take 30mins if you’re overly careful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
My drivers door pull has been broken for over a year. It failed where the top connects to the car. See the picture here:
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Does anyone have a drivers side to sell me? I’m taking it to my plastic business friend to see if he’ll weld it for me. I’ll see if I have time tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Here’s what I got done in the short hour and a half I had to do it:
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I didn’t get started until after 6:30. I had a lot of parts to make room for so they’re out of the way. I picked everything and cleaned up at 8. I didn’t break a single nut/bolt/stud. Only 2 plastic clips that were too brittle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
Remember what I was saying about my o2 sensors? I pulled them out and took pictures. What do you think?
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white ones are upstream.
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Damn toe arms aren’t coming off. Any tips?
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axles came out easy. I thing a cv boot is leaking. I’ll de grease it but I think the damn threads are bad. I completely removed the stake/sent to keep the nut from coming off. I saved both nuts. Check on the long one. CV grease all over the clip.
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The locations you circled in yellow will require a ball-joint/tie-rod removal tool to unseat the taper interface. You should see this in the shop manual. Also, I recommend getting the hub hot-to-the touch with a propane torch.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
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Motor and trans are out. I used a HFlow profile transmission jack. I had the car plenty high up.

1 tip for removal- while lifting the motor leave the motor mount bolts in place to keep the whole thing from tipping or falling while you have it up in place in the car. You’ll be able to position and reposition your jack until the whole thing is balanced. This way your chances of tipping are way less.

2nd tip- when you think everything is disconnected separate it from everything else you have in the way and check from the top and bottom for anything that is still connected. After the motor and trans are on the jack and balanced place everything that’s going out with the motor on top of the motor. It helps you see anything that can still be hooked up.

I left the AC and throttle connected until it was dropped enough so I could see what I was doing. It was super easy that way. I zip tied my slave cylinder to the brake lines. All the coolant hoses from the reservoir I tucked up into the left hood to body brackets (see the picture). I removed it from the reservoir so I could do this tuck job. I had all the clearance in the world.
 
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