After my MWR return and ordering axles and filters from Rock Auto I’ve got $960 left out of my $3k budget. I still need to spend hours degreasing the car and subframe. I still need to get fluids for the gear oil, oil, and coolant.
I may paint the engine bay. Not sure. I’ll probably paint the subframe because it’s gray for some reason.
Yes, I see your post all over. I'm somewhat in the same boat as far as the 2AR or K20 swap. I'm leaning K20 because of the large aftermarket support. I just don't want to drop the engine and have to redo it again lol. Then again, it's your daily and nothing is wrong with the 1zz to get you going again!
Guys the TAP SIZE to chase threads for the motor/trans mounts on the chassis and motor and trans is 10x1.25. I picked one up from a local tool company and a brush to help me clean cuttings/trash for $13.
It’s always a pretty good idea to degrease or clean up and chase threads before you put something back together. It makes starting bolts or nuts in hard to get to places so much easier and it should help you to get correct torque on important hardware. DON’T over tighten and DON’T cross thread. If it’s not easy your doing it wrong.
I worked on the car today. We’ll mostly just the wiring and stuff that involved that.
I had 3 bad connectors that go onto the injectors. The brittle plastic just snapped into pieces but I swapped the connectors for the new ones on the JDM harness. Then I noticed a ground that had broken free so I fixed that.
A big surprise was the sensor hidden below the intake manifold. The JDM used a different connection and sensor. I swapped my old one in but this took forever due to a stuck stud. I used the 2 nut trick.
Then I noticed something so I pulled off the whole intake manifold. What is this? Can I plug it?
I took a picture in front of the spyder motor to show where we don’t have one.
Next I swapped my alternator over and pulled the starter from the old motor. Then I swapped the fuel rail to the new motor. I should’ve swapped that fuel rail first off.
I swapped the motor bridge mount over with help from a 3ft breaker bar so I could do the job myself. You have to loosen the belt tensioner because it blocks the bottom bolt.
The alternator got a new pulley while I thought about that coolant elbow.
Please let me know what you think I should do about it.
Well I couldn’t find a plug in town. Going with a cap on that elbow.
Trans needs help getting pulled off and moved over to its new home. This is what I use to help everything stay nice:
see the studs in the top? Those are really long m12x1.25 with only about an inch of threads and a nice smooth shaft cut into six sides at the end so you can run them in our out with a 1/4” drive socket wrench. First ones in last ones out.
Also, someone asked about the spark plugs:
tops were rusty. Looks like it ran real lean on 3 cylinders. These are ngk with maybe 30k miles on them.
$26 for the engine and transmission plus an axle, flex plate and a bunch of brake rotors. I’m good with that. I even found out that I stored my spare clutch fork in the old 5sp.
question: what’s the size on the triple square for the MWR flywheel bolts?
another question: there’s 3 hoses that connect to the throttle body. 2 that are short and a back one that is different on the JDM fwd motor than the spyder. It’s a bear to get to. Does this one go to the intake tube?
Screw it. Bought a clutch and ARP pressure plate bolts from DDRP. Taking it back apart.
I just didn’t feel “good” using those bolts. The way the torqued felt either hit or miss with them getting tighter and looser during the tightening process.
Either way it’s piece of mind. If the bolts start breaking while I take it apart I’ll know for sure. I need to find my left handed bits.
I had a pretty easy budget for $3000 and with $250 for a clutch and new hardware I’ll feel better. Still leaving me with $600+.
Any input on oil I should run for the first run on the motor or trans? I’ve swapped the trans oil at the first Oil change last time but I haven’t messed with the transmission this time. Not sure if it was necessary. Even when I drained it this time it was clean as new.
New Southbend clutch came in with ARP pressure plate hardware. I read the instructions because I need another set of hands here to help me put the trans on the motor. My gut feeling of this doesn’t look or feel right was spot on by this diagram-
I was between B and C. A lot closer to B in the figure.
Another thing I didn’t do that is in these instructions. Step 4 says”Always ensure bell housing is degreased and is free of dust and that fibers from the worn clutch are removed.”
I dint clean anything on my trans. I’ll clean it today with purple power and my water hose. I don’t want water to get in my transmission. Any better way to clean it? Last time I used a bunch of aluminum foil and it worked fine.
I finally had a friend come over to hold the engine from tipping while I stabbed the trans on. His wife let him stay so I could put the engine home.
A sharp eye will tell you something is wrong. I forgot to bolt up the AC while it was down. I found the bolts and it’ll be home tomorrow.
So tomorrow I have to hook up all the wiring and hook up plumbing. Get ready for pictures (bad quality iPhone ones) if I can’t figure out what goes where. I didn’t think I’d wait this long for help or parts.
Thanks for reading this far. Any help is appreciated