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Discussion Starter · #301 · (Edited)
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It’s getting close. All the coolant hoses are hooked up. Throttle and shift cables are hooked up Exhaust is on besides the muffler section. It’ll be on tomorrow with the crash bar. I need to build up the longer axle and get those in too.

I feel like the electronic hook ups are dwindling away. I think I’ll hook up the o2 sensors and see what’s left.

I need some help with one of the electronic hook ups. Where does this go? O2 sensor? EDIT: yes this is the top passenger side o2 sensor.
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Where does this connection hook up?
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I know where the metal connection goes.

Thanks for any help
 

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Discussion Starter · #302 ·
I have the exhaust, crash bar, o2 sensors and bumper cover on now. All electronic connectors are accounted for.

Still no clue on the throttle body black piece. It needs a cap or it needs to be connected. Here’s the picture as a reminder. PLEASE HELP ME-
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It’s not the easiest to take a picture of a black hose fitting deep in the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
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Home stretch. Need help hooking up the throttle body hoses and I need to bolt up the suspension and pop in the axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #304 ·
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Here’s the update on where these hoses are. Frank helped me not to worry that I was missing a coolant hose. Huge thanks.

The hose on the left is the EVAP with the bracket. The 2 side by side connectors and hoses are for coolant. The black connector further back goes to the brake booster hard line. This connects near the firewall.

It’s all hooked up. Axles and suspension is in and tires are on. Definitely put the sway bar on when you bolt up the subframe and before the exhaust is on. There’s more room that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #305 ·
Battery is in. Stock air box is in. Computer is hooked up and the plastics are all back in place.

I didn’t get the gear oil in. I’ll get it in tomorrow and get this coolant flushed. The overflow didn’t take a full 2 gallons. I squished on some hoses just to get the last quart in. I gotta find these bleeds in the front. The write ups on this are ok. I just really like pictures.

My coolant was yellow and clean. The coolant that came out of this motor was pink. I don’t want to mix them. I poured distilled waters in to flush out the pink stuff.
 

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Battery is in. Stock air box is in. Computer is hooked up and the plastics are all back in place.

I didn’t get the gear oil in. I’ll get it in tomorrow and get this coolant flushed. The overflow didn’t take a full 2 gallons. I squished on some hoses just to get the last quart in. I gotta find these bleeds in the front. The write ups on this are ok. I just really like pictures.

My coolant was yellow and clean. The coolant that came out of this motor was pink. I don’t want to mix them. I poured distilled waters in to flush out the pink stuff.
you don't just pour the coolant in, you really should follow the fill procedure in the factory shop manual

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #308 ·
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The coolant air search helped me find a link to where the air bleeds are and what needed to be removed. It’s not a hard job. Above is how I had the bleeder tubes to bleed all the air the first time. You need to remove the plastic on the bottom and on top of the drunk plus the tire carrier (bucket). Below shows what the bleeders look like:
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for the heater core

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passenger side on the top of the radiator

The radiator bottom drain looks like this air bleed but it’s on the drivers side on the bottom. The hoses are zip tied to the bleeder in the back.

It took 2-1/2 gallons of water to flush it from fully drained and the same amount of coolant to fill it back up. I tried to speed up filling and bleeding by keeping the bleeds all the way loose and squeezing the radiator hoses in the frunk to slosh water and air around

I had one other problem with the shift linkage coming off the bracket. Those clips have been reused twice by me and the left one broke in two. I used the #14 white wire out of solid romex and put it in both holes on the top right and left side of the cable in the bracket and it fits very tight. I test drove it and this works. I have the wire in 1 piece about 6in long looped through both holes and twisted together. Sometimes you gotta make a repair quick.

I took the car on a drive with my wife. It’s got motorcycle type revs with this lighter fly wheel. Really changes the car. I’m also very happy with my south bend clutch. The stage 1+ kit I purchased from DDPR was light and worked great. No launches or slipping yet just like the instructions said.
 

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I hope you got that kink out of the hose to actually bleed it, otherwise very nice. I have a Mishimoto radiator now & seeing your pics brings back good memories of my first Spyder....the factory system is much easier to fill/bleed completely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
I had to squeeze the kink out every time I went to the front of the car. It still worked but held the smallest bubbles. I even tried sliding it off and cutting the kink out and re-attaching it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
There’s a check engine light on now. I also need to head to an alignment shop. So I scheduled for his at Toyota. They’re fitting me in Wednesday at 8am.
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 ·
My alignment was barely off. Apparently my eyeballs aren’t that off. One toe measurement was .63 and the other was -.31.

it’s idling high. I didn’t cap my gas line and I cleaned the engine bay. Probably has something to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #314 ·
Well diagnosed a high idle that didn’t go down. Runs really smooth and I couldn’t get it to even hiccup. Started gripping stuff to see if it was loose.

MAF sensor was able to shake side to side. I might have over tightened the screws/the screw inserts wouldn’t tighten like I wanted. I’ll try to see if there’s a looseness anywhere else. The stock air cleaner moves more than I’d like.

I’m just gonna buy the MWR intake tube. Moves the filter closer to the duct on the side and closer to my left ear. I’ll see if that fixes it. I have a rental from a wreck my wife was in with my truck. I can’t talk much about it but everyone is safe.

Hopefully MWR is rushing to get this shipped out to me
 

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Discussion Starter · #315 ·
MWR shipped USPS today. It’s 1 day from San Antonio to my house.

I did get a foam cannon, ryobi Electric pressure washer and a gallon of chemical guys pink foaming soap. HUGE GAME CHANGER.

I just used 1/4-1/2 oz in the 32oz sun joe foam cannon and it clinged onto the car and even did the BEST job on the top outta any soap I’ve ever used.

I think I might use it for work tomorrow. The high idle really bothers me. I don’t want to run lean. I haven’t had a lean bank code yet. I really don’t want one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #316 ·
Showing the MWR Cola Air Intake will be here Tuesday I have the MAF screwed in with SPAX #6 screws that are more aggressively threaded and slightly longer. No play now but since it sat this weekend I noticed some drips beneath the car.

That damn drivers side axle seal is leaking again. This will be the third I put in. Bad part is that it looks great. I’m gonna drive it and degrease it later when the new seal is here. I’ll stretch this to the oil change at 1500 or 2000miles.

More bad news is my truck was totaled and it’s the most expensive thing I had that’s not real estate/retirement related. I’m hoping I can buy my dads z71 ASAP. My wife and my infant and toddler were in the truck. I was in another vehicle. Prayers needed. If you’re near the 361 area with a 4x4 I can buy please let me know
 
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