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Discussion Starter #161
I’m still daily driving the spyder with leaky weather stripping, no carpet, and floor plugs removed to take the rain out quickly. No issues other than the weather stripping. I did get a new vent for the transaxle. It’s in.

The alpine head unit I bought is really nice. The seek function and really everything is fast, real fast. Fast enough to ruin using other radios, cell phones and computers.

i did have an issue with not having a battery hold down. My battery somehow pulled the positive terminal away from the battery and tire the wire loose. I fixed it up right and added red tape and a battery disconnect. I used some big zip ties to hold the battery in place.

A friend of mine tried to open the passenger door before I unlocked it and totally broke my passenger door handle. If you have one, PM ME PLEASE. I still need to take off the door panel and see if everything else is ok.

I still need to swap out the rubber front and back mounts for the red poly ones. It should be a good weekend at a buddy’s project.

i pm’d about a set of konis and springs. I’d like to change them and see how I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #162
I was looking at konis today and found a kit with koni sport shocks and koni lowering springs 1.2” and 1.2” drop. Carid sells them and they are 829$.

Has anyone tried the Koni springs?
I was sold on the tanager springs then I saw these.

I’ll probably still wait a little to buy the new suspension but I can see my shock boots are all shot plus our roads have all the pot holes. So it won’t be longer than a year until I have oil coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
I’m still daily driving my car. It’s starting to come apart in the cheapest ways.
My inside drivers door pull broke off where it bolts onto the door near the top. A customer of mine pulled the passenger door handle before I unlocked it and ripped the door handle nearly off the car. I’ll have to get a picture of that. It doesn’t function any more and rattles around 4K rpm. So I need to buy different door parts for separate doors.

I’m thinking about trying to tastefully delete the carpet because I can’t get weatherstripping to keep water off the floor. Any ideas for this?
 

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... I need to buy different door parts for separate doors.

I’m thinking about trying to tastefully delete the carpet because I can’t get weatherstripping to keep water off the floor. Any ideas for this?
You can probably still get the door handles new from Toyota. I replaced one about a year ago.

Are you sure that the problem is weatherstripping? If you do not actually see the water entering, then it is probably plugged roof drains. That is one of the most common problems with this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
You can probably still get the door handles new from Toyota. I replaced one about a year ago.

Are you sure that the problem is weatherstripping? If you do not actually see the water entering, then it is probably plugged roof drains. That is one of the most common problems with this car.
Yes. I can see the gaps between the weatherstripping and the windows on both sides
 

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Discussion Starter #168
I’ve put almost 10k on my Spyder in the first year of driving. No long trips yet. I swapped my air filter from o Reilly to a Napa. The Napa has a lot more filter to it. Definitely better.
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Our roads haven’t been swept or vacuumed lately and I got a huge hole in the middle of the tread in my tire from something I didn’t see at dusk last night. My spare was flat when I pulled it out.

guys, check your spare or take it to a tire shop to get it checked for you. Always patch instead or plug if you can.
 

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Our roads haven’t been swept or vacuumed lately and I got a huge hole in the middle of the tread in my tire from something I didn’t see at dusk last night. My spare was flat when I pulled it out.

guys, check your spare or take it to a tire shop to get it checked for you. Always patch instead or plug if you can.
60psi. Hard as a rock. Never touched the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
I played around with my broken passenger door handle and there’s a part still connected to the release bar. My door handle still works. It just has 80% of it detached and rattling at 4K.

Is the MR2-S door handle the only one that fits our Spyder or did Toyota use the part bin for them? I want to swap mine out but eBay never has a white one.
 

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Discussion Starter #173
Still daily driving the spyder. I’ll have to do the AC soon. It’s blowing but not cold enough.

I plan on saving up for these mods for next year:
Suspension (either coil overs or Konis and springs)
Wheels and tires (lightest 16” as possible and staggered tires)
New and better brakes and lines
New steering wheel and hub
Bracing front, back, underneath
I’m looking for other diy stuff like exhaust and intake after I get the important things done.

I’m getting a lot of enjoyment from driving the car, but it’s a little too soft. Steering is top notch but my sidewalls are too soft and it’snot as sporty as I want.

Just like the AC I never fixed my weather stripping around the windows I’m saving the money and prioritizing fun over comfort.

If you have any suggestions or parts you want to swap or sell, send me a PM or reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
My axle seals are leaking now. I think it happened when I installed them but it wasn’t noticeable. It’s throwing oil into my exhaust.
I’m about to park it and get new seals.

This is the first time it’ll be down since the new transmission install. Since I’m taking it apart to get the axles out is there anything I need to look at or for? I’ve put 20k+ miles since the new transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
I got the brakes and motor mounts off but I can’t find the right socket for these Axle nuts. Here’s the progress on speed source motor mounts front and back-
78799

78800
 

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Discussion Starter #176
I also bought a used passenger/ right door handle. It’s red but I’ll respray it white when it comes in. It could be here this week.

I’m thinking of painting a few pieces when it comes in. Motor cover, x brace, phats brace and maybe The heat shield on the manifold. Not sure on the color. Heat shield has one bolt broken off but the other comes out easy. I’ll remember to take pics this time.
 

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Here's the painting I did in my engine bay, I think I'll do the exhaust heat shield next...

I'm not especially happy with the braces, that paint was supposed to be red and it looks orange to me. Going to re-do those at some point.
78813
 

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Discussion Starter #179 (Edited)
This damn long axle. I knew something was wrong with the threads when I put the impact on it.
78819

FD271213-66DE-4D95-90D1-18D9380BD13A.jpeg
also I removed one of these clips hoping this bracket would come right off. Guess not. Removal tools in picture are from harbor freight. These are sacrificial picks and screwdrivers.
Is it time to buy a new axle? My buddy has a machine shop. I don’t know if he can clean out these threads.

Let me know what you think.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
Axle removal:
Tools: metric sockets 1/2 and 3/8 drive 14, 17, 19 and wrenches. 1/2” impact, 10mm hex Allen key. Bigger sockets needed for drain plug and axle nut. 2 big zip ties or wire to hang calipers. Hammer and center punch. oil drain pan, 2qts Amsoil 75w90 severe gear and a way to fill the trans.
1. Losen the trans fill plug
2. Remove and drain trans
3. Remove wheels, caliper brackets, and rotors. Hang the calipers with a wide zip tie or wire around the brake line bracket near the top of the wheel well.
4. remove the bolts holding the carrier for the right/passenger side axle.
5. Remove the axle nut by first removing the stake indent with your hammer and punch. Then I used a 1-1/4” axle socket on this one. Factory is a different size. (maybe 32-34mm?)
6. throw these 2 nuts in a box to get new ones. Or (my case) look at the destruction of your axle threads.
7. ONLY ON THE HUB SIDE Remove lower control arms, toe arms and strut mounts. This will free up enough space to remove the axles.

8. SAVE YOUR LONGER PASSENGER AXLE. INSPECT THE NEW ONE AND TRANSFER THE NECESSARY BRACKET TO THE NEW AXLE OR YOU WILL BE BEGGING ON THIS FORUM FOR SOMEONE TO SELL YOU SOME AXLE CARRIER BRACKET SECOND HAND.

(this is where I’m at. Pissed and smelling like gear oil)

9. REMOVE OIL/AXLE SEALS AND REPLACE. Inspect them if you want. Replace them if you want to save a headache.

10. Reinstall axles and carrier.

11. reinstall suspension. Coil over time or Konis if you have the cash. Stay off eBay.

12.Now you can tighten the axle nuts. Remember to stake them with a punch when you got them where you want them.

13. Put your brakes back on or get new ones and put that set on. I like Powerstop brand because they stay looking good. I’m short on cash because my 9 year anniversary is this month.

14. Add your Amsoil. Fill until it’s steady pouring out of the top fill hole. You should now smell terrible this point of the job.

15. put on your wheels or anything else you removed. Check and make sure everything is torqued to specs. Check your oil. Check your coolant. Check your air filter. Napa makes the best factory one but they never have it in stock.

16. look for any bolts, screws, parts around your work area. Did you use a bowl to hold hardware and did you put them all back on you car?

17. take it off your lift or jack stands and use the lift points. 4 are on the pinch welds and are easy to spot by the 2 notches per point in the inside corners of each wheel (same for almost every import car). The back middle lift point is the rearmost center motor mount. It’s got a flat rectangle. There’s a front center one but you can’t easily use it.
 
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