MR2 SpyderChat banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone in this forum!
Recently I got my hand on a very cheap MR2(ZZW30) and probably the strangest one I could find on the market :LOL:
Few words about the car and afterwards I'll share everything that worries me.

So, it's a car imported from Japan (RHD) to EU (LHD). Some previous owner invested some time and money to switch it to LHD and make it usable. Also the gearbox has been swapped from the factory SMT, to a 6-speed manual from a Celica!
Apparently there are still some "bugs" that I'd like to get sorted (if possible) so here are my questions:

  • the dash has been changed from mph to kph one. I'd anticipate that it should work without issues, but unfortunately the speedo is somewhat off. When I'm going 100 km/h the speedo shows 70. Almost like it's still showing the speed in mph on a kph gauge. How do I fix that? Is there some kind of speed sensor that needs to be replaced?
  • I have a check engine light that's on, but engine runs fine. I'd like to have this inspected. Is there any particular diagnostic tool for this generation Toyotas, or my generic OBD reader would suffice?
  • the central locking works only on the passenger (right) door, as it was intended in Japan. Can I swap the locks on the doors, or I'll have to search for a proper on from a LHD car?
  • there's original JDM stereo in the car. Unfortunately it seems like it doesn't support FM frequencies higher than 90mhz. I guess that's how it goes in Japan. Can it be fixed somehow, or should I just look for a modern replacement unit with more goodies on it?
  • my front control arms look somewhat tired. I know that new ones for the model are more expensive that expected. I read somewhere these are interchangeable with control arms from a Yaris (which are noticeably cheaper) is that true? Also, can I just replace bushings and ball joints, therefore "refurbishing" the control arm?

These are my priorities at the moment. I hope to receive some wisdom from some of you. If any more info is needed, let me know. I'm excited about this car. Seems like a lot of fun!

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,647 Posts
Does the car have a stock sized rear wheel and tire set up on it? If someone changed the overall diameter of the rear tires it will change the speedo.

You'll have to peek under the dash to see what kind of diagnostic port is on the car. I don't think (but I don't know for sure) that a JDM car will have an OBD2 port like we use.

You'll have to buy a radio that will work for our frequencies.
 

·
Registered
MR-2 ZZW30 2001 RHD
Joined
·
174 Posts
  • the dash has been changed from mph to kph one. I'd anticipate that it should work without issues, but unfortunately the speedo is somewhat off. When I'm going 100 km/h the speedo shows 70. Almost like it's still showing the speed in mph on a kph gauge. How do I fix that? Is there some kind of speed sensor that needs to be replaced?
I need to check the wiring diagram, but the speedo is generated by the ABS unit. So it is not like older cars where you have to change a gear on a sensor in the gearbox. Not exactly sure why it shows wrong, maybe other know more about this.
  • I have a check engine light that's on, but engine runs fine. I'd like to have this inspected. Is there any particular diagnostic tool for this generation Toyotas, or my generic OBD reader would suffice?
You can read codes with any generic scan tool. If you want to do more extensive diagnostics, it is nice to buy a Mini VCI cable and use Toyota Techstream software.
  • there's original JDM stereo in the car. Unfortunately it seems like it doesn't support FM frequencies higher than 90mhz. I guess that's how it goes in Japan. Can it be fixed somehow, or should I just look for a modern replacement unit with more goodies on it?
Do not bother with the stock radio, replace it with something else
  • my front control arms look somewhat tired. I know that new ones for the model are more expensive that expected. I read somewhere these are interchangeable with control arms from a Yaris (which are noticeably cheaper) is that true? Also, can I just replace bushings and ball joints, therefore "refurbishing" the control arm?
Yes, the front control arm is very similar to a Yaris arm, only the big bushing is different.
You can buy the MR-2 specific bushing from GSP, the part number is GSP GRM16076.
The smaller bushing and the ball joint are identical to a Yaris / Aygo, so very cheap and easy to source. I used Sidem 45986 and Sidem 845632.

Where are you located? Do you have some pictures of the car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,361 Posts
  • the dash has been changed from mph to kph one. I'd anticipate that it should work without issues, but unfortunately the speedo is somewhat off. When I'm going 100 km/h the speedo shows 70. Almost like it's still showing the speed in mph on a kph gauge. How do I fix that? Is there some kind of speed sensor that needs to be replaced?
I can send you the procedure to make your speedometer read in MPH or KPH (your choice). It requires about $70 in parts - or I can do it for you. Joel Faas (Australia) has a procedure where he razor cuts the face of the speedometer and swaps the MPH face with the KPH face, or vice versa. The cut is hidden by the plastic instrument panel bezel. However, It sounds like all you need is to reprogram the odometer chip to read KPH. My procedure addresses that.

Computer hardware Circuit component Font Electronic component Pattern
Watch White Light Analog watch Gauge
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,361 Posts
"the central locking works only on the passenger (right) door, as it was intended in Japan. Can I swap the locks on the doors, or I'll have to search for a proper on from a LHD car?"

Japanese only lock their driver's doors? And leave their passenger doors unlocked? Or lean over and manually lock the passenger door every time? Are you sure it's not just a failed door lock actuator?

Answering my own question - the Japanese MR-S parts list shows both a left and right door lock assembly. Each door lock assembly includes the electric lock actuator. I suspect you just have a failed door lock actuator. Most likely a cheap RAV4 actuator will work. That's what I've used in my spyders. I'll look up the part number.

Edit: Door Lock Actuator for 2000-2005 Toyota Rav4 is about $12 on Amazon. I'd just order one and see how it works. Too inexpensive to worry about it much. (Dade Part Number: 6912042080 for LH actuator)


Automotive lighting Vehicle Motor vehicle Toy Automotive tire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does the car have a stock sized rear wheel and tire set up on it? If someone changed the overall diameter of the rear tires it will change the speedo.

You'll have to peek under the dash to see what kind of diagnostic port is on the car. I don't think (but I don't know for sure) that a JDM car will have an OBD2 port like we use.
The car is fitted with 205/55/15 tires. The wheels are those 5 spoke wheels that you can see on many MR2s.
I believe there's a OBD2 port that is hanging in passenger (ex-driver) side legroom.


Do not bother with the stock radio, replace it with something else

Yes, the front control arm is very similar to a Yaris arm, only the big bushing is different.
You can buy the MR-2 specific bushing from GSP, the part number is GSP GRM16076.
The smaller bushing and the ball joint are identical to a Yaris / Aygo, so very cheap and easy to source. I used Sidem 45986 and Sidem 845632.

Where are you located? Do you have some pictures of the car?
Do you know if any aftermarket player will be a pita to install? I'm not sure if the cabling and plugs at the back are different on JP cars.
I'll upload some pictures of the car soon. It is located in Sofia (Bulgaria).

I'll explore the control arm refurbishing option at later point, as now I have awful clicking and scraping noise coming from front left brake caliper that I want to get sorted. It's driving me nuts.

I can send you the procedure to make your speedometer read in MPH or KPH (your choice). It requires about $70 in parts - or I can do it for you. Joel Faas (Australia) has a procedure where he razor cuts the face of the speedometer and swaps the MPH face with the KPH face, or vice versa. The cut is hidden by the plastic instrument panel bezel. However, It sounds like all you need is to reprogram the odometer chip to read KPH. My procedure addresses that.

View attachment 91877 View attachment 91878
Reprogramming was the first thing that came to mind. I'd appreciate if you can give me some insight on how its performed and what's needed.


"the central locking works only on the passenger (right) door, as it was intended in Japan. Can I swap the locks on the doors, or I'll have to search for a proper on from a LHD car?"

Japanese only lock their driver's doors? And leave their passenger doors unlocked? Or lean over and manually lock the passenger door every time? Are you sure it's not just a failed door lock actuator?
I'm sorry. I didn't explained it right. What I meant was that locking driver's door will lock passenger door as well, but no vice versa. Seems like programming issue as well as both lock do work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,361 Posts
... What I meant was that locking driver's door will lock passenger door as well, but no vice versa. Seems like programming issue as well as both lock do work.
My spyders will lock both doors using the remote control fob. However unlock will only open the drivers door. You must push the remote button twice to unlock the passenger door. This can be re programmed to unlock
Both doors with a single push.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Do you know if any aftermarket player will be a pita to install? I'm not sure if the cabling and plugs at the back are different on JP cars.
I'll upload some pictures of the car soon. It is located in Sofia (Bulgaria).

I just installed an aftermarket stereo in my JDM Mr-s, it was very easy, and i just used a generic toyota stereo wiring harness, so to answer your question, no you don't need a specific adapter for a JDM stereo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
  • there's original JDM stereo in the car. Unfortunately it seems like it doesn't support FM frequencies higher than 90mhz. I guess that's how it goes in Japan. Can it be fixed somehow, or should I just look for a modern replacement unit with more goodies on it?
I replaced my stock head unit with one from the 2011 era Scion products. It doesn't have a screen and still has a large volume knob which I prefer to volume "buttons". I made a video of how to do it and linked all the parts in the description.
  • my front control arms look somewhat tired. I know that new ones for the model are more expensive that expected. I read somewhere these are interchangeable with control arms from a Yaris (which are noticeably cheaper) is that true? Also, can I just replace bushings and ball joints, therefore "refurbishing" the control arm?
The Yaris arms will work but they have a slightly different geometry. The Spyder does share the same control arm as the Scion xA and xB but ONLY at the very start of the 2004 model year. I used 1AAuto control arms and replaced them in this video.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I replaced my stock head unit with one from the 2011 era Scion products. It doesn't have a screen and still has a large volume knob which I prefer to volume "buttons". I made a video of how to do it and linked all the parts in the description.

The Yaris arms will work but they have a slightly different geometry. The Spyder does share the same control arm as the Scion xA and xB but ONLY at the very start of the 2004 model year. I used 1AAuto control arms and replaced them in this video.
Having those videos available is fantastic! Really helpful!

I've had some minor progress with the car over the past few days. Replaced the front pads and the clicking noise is gone. Was really annoying.
Found my old generic OBD2 adapter, cleared all logged faults with TORQUE Lite, but there's one code popping up - P0505 which seems to be indicating error with the idle rpm. Indeed, the car seems to be idling quite high (1300-1500 rpm according my dash, if its indicating correct RPM).Wondering if that's a common fault?

p.s. I've also installed ELMScan Toyota app on my phone. Is it any better?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
I paid for OEM one, but it failed instantaneous. Idling was going up/down everytime. The IACV is difficult to acess. It's not something you want to do everytime. From my own experience, I prefered to buy expensive "Genuine Part" and having another 150k miles of working IACV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I paid for OEM one, but it failed instantaneous. Idling was going up/down everytime. The IACV is difficult to acess. It's not something you want to do everytime. From my own experience, I prefered to buy expensive "Genuine Part" and having another 150k miles of working IACV.
Roger that. I looked up on my MR2 super service manual and it seems like it will be easier if I could remove the whole throttle body + with this valve on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
I don't recommand to remove the throttle body. Less is better. Some peoples removed the throttle body and ended by having others problems around the throttle body. IACV is linked to 2 small coolant hoses. Remove and use something to stop coolan fluid. You can remove the IACV under the car just by remove the intake tube and jacking very high the car. Carefull with the IACV screw's. They are small and the heads strip easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Soooo, this is turning out to be a bigger problem (or more likely one of many!). I'll proceed with some pictures and a sad story.

On my way to remove the IACV, dismantling the intake tube and reaching the throttle body is quite easy, taking me around 15 min.
The blue hose indicates that someone's been here before!

Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Auto part



Unfortunately the screws holding the IACV to the TB, as noted, are quite the pain, so I decide to just take the entire throttle body out to have better position in trying to remove em.
Revolver Wood Toy Table Machine


Eventually, 2 out of 3 give up, I can smell the minor victory, but then the third one strips as bad as possible :mad:
Here comes the hacksaw to the rescue, making the third one a simple flat screw. Finally the valve is separated!
Bicycle part Cable Wood Plumbing Auto part



The valve took quite the bath with brake cleaner and degreaser + old brush and some warm water. Lots of black stuff came out. At the end I took some time to remove the black plastic cap. Here the hacksaw once again saved the day, as I turned those screws to flatheads too. Over there I lubricated the bearing (I lubricated the bottom side bearing too) and made sure it moves nicely before closing it back and fitting new, better screws.
Gas Wood Machine Metal Engineering



Back to the car just before putting back the valve on the TB, and then everything together, it occurs to me to test out the valve before it's on. So I put the connector on it, switch to ignition and oh... NOTHING HAPPENS. According the service book it supposed to cycle through, but the valve is over there doing nothing. Could it be that's dead beyond repair??
Next idea! - I'm getting the multimeter, switch to 12V DC, hooking it up to the IACV connector and then I switch ignition again. Once again - nothing. I tried all possible combinations of pins, but I couldn't get even the slightest voltage.
Anyway I put back everything, and oh, look, a hanging connector. Someone's definitely been here. Any ideas where's that from? It's on the same harness as MAF sensor.
Motor vehicle Hood Car Vehicle Automotive fuel system



Anyways, I start the car and there's absolutely no change. Immediate MIL on with P0505. While the car is cold it seems to be fine around 800 rpm, as the heat takes over the engines revs more and more. I let it warm up nicely, and as it hits 90 degrees we are once again @ 1500 rpm.


Obviously, I have to find the other end of that IACV connector, so I decided to take a look at the ECM. So I remove some plastics behind the seats, then remove some more, and there you go - the ECM shows up. BUT! As I look more closely it gets quite ugly. SOMEONE'S BEEN HERE AS WELL. Oh the drudgery!
Trunk Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Automotive exterior



At this point I'm calling it a day as I'm too tired. I have to find some kind of diagram of the ECM in order to have a better idea of the routes of all connectors at the engine bay.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top