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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all! I’m about to pull the trigger on a new set of wheels, but I wanted some input before buying.

I currently have Enkei PF01’s in 16x7 +43 front and 17x7 +45 rear. I like the raked look have a smaller diameter front wheel gives. When I purchased I read lots of people run square setups and figured the extra 2mm of offset would not be noticeable. I didn’t realize that the 1” wider wheel in front would actually be 14.7 mm further out than the rear wheel.

I’m looking at buying some Enkei PF05’s in 16x6.5 +50 and 17x7 +45. The wheel calculator I’m using says the front wheel will be 1.3mm wider than the rear.

Does anyone know how much space is available to move the wheel closer to the strut? Does anyone think that these front wheels will adversely affect handling?

Current Wheels
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New Wheels
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I'm on a square setup with 17 x 7.5 inch wheels at 42mm offset

I've got a good bit more room in the back for bigger tires, but with 205/40R17 front and 215/40R17 rear it handles extremely well and I get even tire wear all the way around. I'm changing tires twice as often in the rear. I have a bit of a heavy foot through corners and braking is something I only do at stoplights.

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Those are facts, now here are my opinions.
  1. I like the wheels you already have better than the ones you're looking at.
  2. You need to lower your car.
 

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The original wheel sizes should be fine. It is a very common configuration. We have been running 16x7 +45 front with 195/45-16 tires with no issues. But clearance to the strut is not much, and a +50 will move the wheel almost 1/4" closer to the strut. Depending on tire dimensions, that might get very close We run the same wheel in the rear with a 215 tire and there is plenty of clearance. We are considering going to 17x7 +45 in the rear just for more tire selection options

When people refer to stagger, they are referring to tire width, not wheel width or track width. The stock front track width is wider than the rear. You current wheels don't really change that. The idea of "square" is to run the same tire and wheel combination front and rear. There are pluses, and there are minuses. It has been discussed many times on the forum

My personal opinion is to stick with what you have.
 

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A few things.

One is that larger diameter rims are heavier.
Lower section tyres have stiffer sidewalls and less air volume = more directional stability but less conformation.
The wheel well shape front and rear are not the same an same size rims may make the rear appear smaller.

Here is a handy calculator to see how diffrent sizes of rims/tyres affect the fit


One last thing to note is that larger diameter and for the tyre size wider rims are curb magnets.
 

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  1. You need to lower your car.
Toyota knew a bit or two when only minimally lowering with both Sportivo and Race springs.
Download a suspension geometry program and you´l see that lowering has definite downsides for the McStrut geometry.
This has nothing to do with rim/tye sizes though and has seperate threads.

I think we need to be aware that mods can have different goals. Cornering anything near quick is véry easily compromised because the OEM set up is impressively well sorted. Toyota came out with a réally good optimum for spirited road use.
There are NO easy wins here and just about any improvement in one aspect will cost you more somewhere else.
Improving the looks without a cost in roadholding is quite difficult and improving bóth.... euhmmmm... more challenging still.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Toyota knew a bit or two when only minimally lowering with both Sportivo and Race springs.
I have a set of Sportivo springs in the garage. I plan to pair them with some Koni’s.

Not sure about the PF05’s, but the PF01’s I currently have are lighter than the factory wheels. They aren’t featherweight forged but, they aren’t garbage knockoff anchors.
 

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Some thoughts, as I'm on the same quest: as long as the car still runs the 1zz, i'd rather go on a 15x7 F with ET32-36 and 16x8 R with ET28-32

Goal is to maximize grip, while maintaing the driving characteristics and the staggered setup, as OEM as possible. Too much grip will expose the underpowered engine, while it'll make the car a lot more dangerous on the limit

Curious to see what other suggest though!
 

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Some thoughts, as I'm on the same quest: as long as the car still runs the 1zz, i'd rather go on a 15x7 F with ET32-36 and 16x8 R with ET28-32

Goal is to maximize grip, while maintaing the driving characteristics and the staggered setup, as OEM as possible. Too much grip will expose the underpowered engine, while it'll make the car a lot more dangerous on the limit

Curious to see what other suggest though!
Not even the PFL with 185 front and 205 rear needs wider rubber as the grip is already excellent. Fit grippy summer rubber and the limits are not at thát end.
A set of OEM/KYB shocks in as new condition with ditto springs and the car can easily outhandle the engine.
Please keep in mind that most cars now have rather tired shocks/springs which are not a reference. Thus fitting new would be serious ´upgrade´.

Bottom line is that with fresh shocks/springs and grippy summer rubber the limits of grip are beyond most drivers.
 

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I have a set of Sportivo springs in the garage. I plan to pair them with some Koni’s.
Please note that Konis are inserts; you will need to cut up the OEM legs to fit them. Not much of a problem, just be aware that they are not a straight swap.

The Sportivo springs will create some rake as they lower the front a bit more than the rear which is why the ´dog bones´ came with the complete kit.
 

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So, what size did you get OP? I'm currently checking the wheels on 4wheelonline, and I'm still undecided whether to go for a staggered or square setup.
 
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