An inexpensive scanner will be fine to get basic codes. You'll probably still get ripped off, but you'll have a better idea of what's going on. It would be sort of like getting ass raped but you'll have time to use some lube.

 

Do you use an Android phone? If so, a $20 Bluetooth OBD II scanner is an amazing buy. Paired with the paid Torque Pro app, you get everything. Codes, explanations for the codes, live data, logging, anything you want.

Otherwise, cheap OBD II scanners are really not worth it. They can only show codes and clear them. Even seeing snapshot data is only for the expensive ones.

 

This sounds like the way to go. I have a windows 8 phone and a windows 8.1 tablet, but the wife has an android phone. I'm sure she won't get territorial about her phone and let me borrow it...maybe.

 

My goal is to see "oh I have a bad O2 sensor" and if the mechanic says, "You need a new engine" I can leave.

 

You can also use cheap scanners with an iOS device, but you'll need one that broadcasts a wifi signal- like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVV60HI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

 

You need live data to see something like a bad O2 sensor, they rarely throw out CELs. You need to watch it and know what you're looking for.

 

That is what I purchased. Get the codes, research the meaning, sometimes many codes will point to the answer. Best advice would be to find a mechanic you can trust. There are many good honest mechanics.

 

Check out local auto parts stores such as O'Reilly or Auto Zone. Many offer free reading of error codes (they do so to sell parts).

Paul

 

What he said. They won't clear the CEL for you, but all you have to do is pull the neg cable for a few minutes(10 or so, if I remember right). When you restart the engine, let it idle for a few minutes, then drive "normally" for a few. This lets the ECU get back to "normal".

 

A lot of Auto Parts Shops will NOT read codes for free anymore, dues to a lawsuit from the majors car manufacturers. The only one in my area that still does it is a local AAMCO.

If you have an ANDROID Phone: Find an ELM327 Bluetooth reader for around $20, and download Torque Pro for about $6. Bluetooth is very useful here and you can also track some live data even with that simple setup.

If you have an APPLE Phone: you are better off buying a regular OBDII scanner. This is one instance where the apps are better on an android than iOS.

If you need a scanner:

Cheap: Actron makes some decent scanners. I bought a 9575 when it was about $65, now it is $150 - but even a basic one will give u codes.

 

+1 on Android, elm Bluetooth and torque, premium torque is about $5.00. Works great!!!!

 

If you do go for the Android route, don't use the free version of Torque. It's only really there to make sure it works on your device/car/ELM327 dongle. But it's a very old version of the app. Again, purely for testing before buying. Torque Pro is fantastic.

 

I agree, one of the best paid apps that I have, and when used in conjunction with an elm327 bluetooth reader can be a very good tool, as it even streams live data

 

Many auto parts stores will read the coded for free. Give them a call before driving the car over though to make sure.

 

@scorched I'm pretty sure the issue was with clearing the codes not reading them.

 

Cheap Scanner

My CEL came on, went to AutoZone and it was an O2 sensor. I replaced all of the O2 sensors and about a month later the CEL lit up. My immediate reaction was that I had screwed up again. Went to Amazon and ordered the cheapest, highest rated for the price category, reader: Autel (MaxiScan MS309) OBD-II Code Reader / Scan Tool for $21. Got it in 2 days, plugged it in and was told "minor emissions leak" (paraphrased); cleared the code and haven't looked back since.

 

There is an app in the apple store called "Engine Link - OBD II" that has gotten good reviews. There is also an elm327 specifically for apple products available on amazon.com. Combined price is about $23, I'm going to give it a try.

 

OK, so I got a OBD2 bluetooth adapter from Amazon for about $20 and hooked it up to my Windows Phone using an app called OBD Auto Doctor Lite just to get the code. It shows a P0031 code which according to a search Cap Weir says:

"p0031 is a bad heater in the Passenger side O2 Sensor on the Engine.."


Anyone know how much that typically costs to replace? How safe is it to drive the car at this point? How long can I go before it will do damage?


PS. Thanks for all the advice folks.

 

Perfectly safe to drive. You might have lower fuel economy but that's essentially it.

Replacing it yourself is easy. Get a Denso O2 sensor, Denso is the OEM manufacturer for Toyota. Here is an upstream sensor, plug and all. http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-462...34170881&sr=8-1&keywords=234-4624&pebp=1434170878203&perid=86B20F0E7D744A3F8D16

An O2 socket and a large breaker bar and you can pull out the old one and screw in the new one. Denso O2 sensors even come with anti-seize for the threads.

 

I watched a few vids on youtube showing replacements and it looks fairly simple. Now I just have to find it. Time to break out the big repair manual the previous owner left in the car.

 

Don't forget that you will need an O2 specialty socket to remove the sensor. This is another cost, but again, you should call around to some of the local national chain auto parts stores to see if they have a tool "loan" program. Most tool loan programs work as follows: the store requires that you purchase the tool but as long as you don't break it, when you return it to the store they provide a full refund. Auto Zone, O'Reilly and Advance Auto all run such a program.

Good luck with the wrenching!

Paul

 

OK, so I got the Torque Pro app and I've played around with it a tad. There are six gauges on the real time monitoring. Five seem obvious (maybe they aren't):

Revs
Speed
Coolant Temp
Acceleration
Throttle

However, the sixth one eludes me. When not hooked up it says boost. When I'm plugged in and monitoring in real time it says vacuum. Does this have something to do with a turbo that I don't have installed?

Lastly, I suspect I would be able to see how well my car is running if I knew the ratios of things like revs to acceleration to throttle or some combination (for example - you're giving it too much throttle to get that few RPMs). Anyone have any hints or tricks or advice for those?

 

You can customize all the gauges. Delete them, move them, add new ones of any kind. To modify gauges, hold down on them. To add new ones, hold an empty space. It's the most customizable app ever. Takes a little bit to get used to it, but it's powerful. Also there are many pages where you can set up new gauges, not just one page.

Boost/vacuum is the same thing, just in two different directions. Engines make vacuum, and there's a sensor that keeps track of it. When you have forced induction, that vacuum suddenly goes to pressure when your turbo/supercharger/etc starts compressing air. Our cars don't do boost, just vacuum. It's an oversimplified explanation, but I think it's okay.

There are no "ratios" between throttle, acceleration, and RPM. None of them are even directly related. Throttle just opens up the throttle body, allowing air into the engine. This means the car accelerates, but it depends on a lot of factors that always change. So no DIRECT relationship, though obviously more throttle = more acceleration = rising RPM.

So what exactly is your goal? Why did you get Torque Pro and the reader? Did you want to achieve something specific, or just to have it?

 

My goal was only to figure out why my check engine light was on so mission accomplished. However, now that I have it I feel like I should learn to use it. Could I get better gas mileage by using information I compile from it? After I fix the O2 sensor of course.

 

Sure, some of that data is useful for hyper miling. Not exactly sure which would apply off the top of my head, but explore the app. There are tons of different metrics. Make a page dedicated to gauges for fuel economy!

 

Vacuum is measured as a direct relationship to throttle opening. The old "fuel economy" gauges were nothing more than vacuum gauges that had colored ranges on the gauge face as opposed to numbers.

Paul

 

Homies-

I'm looking for an OBD2 scanner/Bluetooth adapter and app to let me use my iPhone to read and clear my codes, and I found this thread in a search.

You fellas mention the apps Tourque, OBD Auto Doctor, and some others.

Which, in particular, would you recommend, and what Bluetooth adapter?

Thanks!
Scott

 

You can't use a Bluetooth adapter with an iPhone, Apple doesn't allow that. Torque is an Android app for use with said Bluetooth adapters. As far as what works with iPhones, I think you need a WiFi adapter. Unfortunately, I can't give advice there, don't have an iPhone.

 

Thanks, HaloRuler.

Damn good thing I asked, then!

I was under the impression that a Bluetooth adapter was what I needed for an iPhone.
After all, I pair several other Bluetooth devices with my iPhone.
Are you SURE that I can't use a Bluetooth scanner adapter?

Thanks again.
Scott

 

Thanks, HaloRuler.

Damn good thing I asked, then!

I was under the impression that the Bluetooth adapter was what I needed for an iPhone.
After all, I pair several other Bluetooth devices with my iPhone.
Are you SURE that I can use a Bluetooth scanner adapter?

Thanks again.
Scott

As far as I understand, yes. Many people use WiFi scanenrs with iPhones. BUT I know this works with iPhones for sure: http://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS

Watch a review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPnDZ1Y7xVA

 

Ah I guess only Apple "certified" Bluetooth OBD2 readers work. No generic ones.

 

Looks like the issue is that Apple only supports certain Bluetooth profiles, and for whatever reason not all OBD-II readers include the specific Bluetooth profiles. From what I can gather after a quick search is that open or generic Bluetooth profiles (Serial Port Protocol) are not supported by Apple. Apple requires that manufacturers use their IPod Accessory Profile, which accesses some specific "advanced iOS features". This also necessitates that the manufacturer join the Apple MFI (Made For I) program for testing and certification.

http://drop-kicker.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/AppleBluetoothDesignGuidelines.pdf