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Discussion Starter #1
my coolant level (with the engine very cold) is below low. ok to just add some water to bring it up?

I think I had a bubble the other day. I had been driving around making a few stops. I was on the highway and felt the warm heater air turn to cold. there was no heat at all. then the temp gauge started to climb up near H (never done that before). I put it in N and coasted off the highway - the temp started dropping back to normal. even at idle it was fine. but as soon as I'd start driving, it would start to climb again. still no heat. now there was nothing leaking, oil level good, coolant was above full, but not overflowing or even close. nothing blocking the radiator, fans working, everything looked good but no heat inside and overheating when trying anything other than idling. so I was emailing my brother about it and getting his thoughts. I let the car cool down for about 30 minutes. it was cold out.
Now the temp was almost at Low, so I popped the cap on the overflow tank. there was burp of pressure, and some bubbles. then it dropped a little. I sealed it back up. then I started the car and took off right on the highway as I wanted to try to get across the river at least, then I could baby it home on side streets. getting onto the highway I had to go through a tight corner on the on ramps, as I did the temp suddenly dropped to L from 1/4. then on the highway it slowly climbed as normal to normal temp, and all of a sudden I had heat too. everything seemed fine, I made it all the way home and everything seems normal. so maybe the coolant system needed to "burp"?
but now it's been 24 hrs and the level has dropped below the Low level almost empty but not totally empty.
so is it ok to just add some water? or do I need to go buy a big thing of Toyota coolant just to top it off?
 

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It is perfectly fine to add water however make sure you add distilled water and you are good to top off.
 

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Coolant

The manual says you can also use demineralized water or the above mentioned distilled water.
 

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34erftgb
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys.

been checking the oil. still looks pretty clean and light, normal - changed it oct 2011.

nothing been leaking.

Bought my Spyder April 2000. almost 12 years. 46,878 original miles.
same original coolent, :eusa_naughty::icon_redface:
I never wanted to mess with it as people said it's some complicated system to bleed, etc. sure can't trust Toyota then either as they can't even lift the car properly.

Get's real hot and humid here in summer and pretty darn cold in winter here in minnesota. never a problem till now. it is kept in the garage when home/at night.

in fact still has orig brakes, everything. just oil & filter changes. but my clutch has been slipping for a year under full throttle in 3, 4 & 5th gear. probably cause of those heavy 21lb 17" wheels & tires I ran for 3-4 years.

oh I put in Koni adjustable inserts 2005 or 2006? and they still seem great too.

and the precats were removed way way back. and I have a CAI (for th esweet sound of it)
so other than that stuff. still original.

thanks
 

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coolant

If you have a garage to work in and toyota manuals it's real easy to change the coolant. Changed mine this winter and ran it for a while without any air bubbles. Had to buy clear plastic lines at the hardware store to bleed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm guessing this is a Toyota Shop manual, not the owners manual I need?
if so, is it online anywhere? at least the coolant swap part?
 

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Coolant change

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa480/kbranch4/100_0511_00.jpg
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa480/kbranch4/100_0510.jpg
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa480/kbranch4/100_0511.jpg

It's the toyota manual, I bought mine off E-bay (175$ and worth every penny). There are some posts on the net from people on how to do this. If you decide to do this and have questions along the way contact me. see pics if it helps (try zooming in if you can)

Edit: http://www.spydermagazine.com/2002/Nov/coolant/coolant.htm
Try this site, I used it for reference when I changed mine.

Oh, the 2 main line drains have gaskets. Copper crush washers, I re-used mine as they were in good shape but they should be changed. Your car should have sevice hoses (clear plastic hoses) attached when you remove your frunk cover. you can use this hose when draining fluid. I bought extra hoses at the hardware store but you don't really have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Ken for your helps, links, etc. I opened the valves and added some distilled water. did not take much.
Looks like there is a small rectangle inside the larger bucket, so filling form low to full does not take much liquid.
so I just added enough to bring up almost up to full. then sealed all vents. started it up and took it for a drive. That was early Monday. also drove it later Monday and today no sign of trouble.

As soon as it's a bit warmer I'll drain and fill the whole system with new antifreeze using the info you posted. Does not look that tough, as long as the drain nuts are not rusted. too bad they didn't design the system with one low spot / one drain spot instead of the four areas to drain. strange, oh well.
 

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If using Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze it should be diluted with distilled/de-mineralized water, not just full strength. Check the manufactures recommendations as to dilution ratio. Found the following site with dilution chart, which also gives you a quick test to check for degradation which can lead to Electrolysis.


http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/engine_coolant.htm
 
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