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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just finished replacing the output shaft bearing on my 2001 Spyder. '01, 91k miles. I drove on it about 600 miles after I first noticed the noise.

Some background in another thread. Seems like my symptoms were not quite standard (or maybe I just hadn't let it get bad enough, as we'll see later).

Anyway, it's back together, working, and much quieter. Sharing a few things from my experience here.

1. I cut the old rear output shaft bearing apart. It had spalling in two places, but really had not lost all that much metal yet. This may be why I didn't have all the symptoms. All of the damage is show in this pic--the rest of the inner race is smooth.

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2. Get yourself a large container of blue loctite. So many things require medium threadlocker.

3. Permatex sells a gray RTV specifically for use with "gear oil" and I went ahead and used that for sealing the case seams. Seems OK so far. The service manual says to apply it 1mm wide and I definitely used more than that. Now I'm kind of worried I might have a piece get loose in the case and block an oil passage or something. We'll see. Go sparing here--most of it will squeeze out.

4. It wasn't clear from the manual exactly what the shift boot orientation should be. I went with this, as it puts the drain hole at the bottom (when the transmission is installed), and maybe the point of that weird tab is to direct water around the opening for the shaft. (in this picture, the bellhousing is "down").

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5. I got the Aisin clutch kit from Rockauto. Seems like a good part. I am not sure the "alignment tool" it comes with is actually an alignment tool--it might just be to keep the clutch disc from falling out while you install the pressure plate? I ended up using a lathe to turn a piece of 3/4" pex pipe down to the appropriate diameter and used that as an alignment tool. Seemed to work. But if you buy the kit, pay an extra $3 for a proper alignment tool.

6. I got the ARP 203-2802 kit from Monkey Wrench Racing, since they are reusable and about the same price as OEM bolts. They are definitely longer than the stock bolts, but I measured .050" to .055" clearance to the block. And no terrible noises when I started the car so I guess I measured right. At first I thought they were too long, but I think there is some old loctite or other crud in the last few threads of the crankshaft. With that little clearance I recommend measuring for yourself (as does Monkey Wrench).

7. It is possible to install the No. 2 gear fork shift shaft 180 degrees off and it will bolt together and move just fine (I think--maybe I would have caught it in the final bench test). But the cutouts for the ball detents will be facing the wrong direction. I just barely noticed this in time. Takes lots of pictures and reference them before putting the case back together.
 

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The best alignment tool for the clutch is your eye, and a ruler. Line up the clutch disc where it looks in alignment, using the ruller. Then tighten down the pressure plate.

Never hang the weight of the transmission on the input shaft throught the clutch disc. This will damage the clutch disc and lead to premature failure.
 
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