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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

My K20 swap is almost done now, and a week ago when I first turned the key to check all the electrics the P/S pump starts( make a noise)

I heard that everyone who makes the 2zz swap also has this problem when doing a swap.
so i wonder if anybody has any information on how to properly wire it ?

the stock engine harness has been removed so i guess thats why it does not have a singal,
i still have the harness, so i can reuse it and the connectors if i need to.

Thanks :)
 

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From what I understand once you do the swap the power steering stays on as long as they key is on. I did 2zz swap and have that also. I guess I could put a switch in but I'm to lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From what I understand once you do the swap the power steering stays on as long as they key is on. I did 2zz swap and have that also. I guess I could put a switch in but I'm to lazy.

I see! and everything works as i sould?
well i think there must be a way around it, i found the P/s pin on the ecu, just need to know what signal i needs?
I would be nice if everything was working as it was in the beginning :D
 

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The root of the problem is, cars that do not have EHPS do not need to keep the PS pump 'off' when the engine is not turning. So if you have an ECU from a K20 Honda, it knows nothing about this...... whereas the Spyder ECU only starts the PS pump when the engine is running.

With a little ingenuity you could probably make a small circuit that does the same thing.... off the top of my head, I'm thinking a small voltage comparator and transistor, that only closes the PS circuit if the car's voltage is above 12.8 or so.
 

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I have a 2ZZ and have not noticed this, perhaps because the 1ZZ ECU is in there providing the dash and a couple of other functions. My engine is run by a Link G4 in piggy back.

You could always do what I am and remove the PS altogether converting the rack to manual operation, although if your car is used on the road it may be a bad idea.

A third option is to change to an electric assist column, my friend used one from a Opel/GM Corsa in his car (not Mr2) and it is a nice solution that installs on the steering column, it's quite small and easy to wire in. You should be able to get on easily as you are also in Europe. There are plenty of "how to" threads if you google.
 

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iv also wondered how to get the pump working just like with the 1zz ecu,

since you have the 1zz ecu still plugged in its still controlling it normall .


what sort of input is the PS ecu looking for from the 1zz ecu?
 

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My 2ZZ swap does this, I can't remember the thread but it is normal, for whatever reason the 2ZZ ecu turns the pump on when the key is in the "on" position. I hear it all the time, if I shut my car of and turn it back to on to roll up the windows you can hear it buzzing up front. If you're rolling however when you turn it back to on above (I think) 5mph it will not turn on. Hope this helps.

-Spargo
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It would be nice to have it working proberly as it did with the 1zz.
I wonder what information the pump need to work as i sould?

and also it seems strange that some people who made a swap has this problem and some don´t
i wonder if maybe MWR or Rogue motorsport now how to solve this?

I was also talking to LiV auto who made a k20 swap, he says that he knows how to solve the problem, but he won´t share the information!!!


thanks.
 

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Just a thought...
Could one tap into the fuel pump power?
The pump is only on with the engine running.
Makes sense, actually. And really easy to do.


It's one pin at the ECU. Without having the wiring diagram handy, I can already tell you what must happen. Either the pin is normally open and gets switched to ground by the ECU when the engine is running, or it's normally grounded and gets opened.

So take that wire, buy a relay, tap into the fuel pump relay wiring as OldMan suggests.... when the fuel pump is running, open the PS pin circuit; when it's not, close it (or vice versa).

When I wire MKII Turbos for stand-alone EMS systems, I usually dedicate an RPM-switchd output for this reason... run the PS pump at any RPM above cranking (450 or more), turn it off below that point. But I can't off the top of my head remember if it's normally open or normally closed.
 
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